|
| | |
|
|
Matt.Lisko3
User
Jun 25, 2011, 11:35 AM
Post #1 of 18
(3272 views)
|
Hey guys, I have a couple of rust spots on my driver side door that appeared following this past winter. I'm going to be repairing them on an upcoming weekend and was looking for some tips and advice. Here's some pictures of the door:
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2252/10…
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/62/1000…
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7518/10…
My plan is to grind / sand away at the rust until i get to clean metal, or if its rusted all the way through i'm cutting it out and welding a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal in. And use some bondo to fill in the low spots, prime and paint.
I'm really looking for some advice when it comes to painting, I don't want to see any kind of noticeable areas where you can tell new paint was applied. What do you guys think about sanding the entire door to scuff it up and put a fresh coat of paint on the entire door?
Another option I'm considering is to rent a sand blaster and sand blast the entire door and then do my rust repairs prime and paint the whole thing. I'd really like to avoid sandblasting if I can get away with just scuffing up the paint and putting a new coat on the door.
Thanks!
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
|
Mr.scotty
Enthusiast
Jun 25, 2011, 9:06 PM
Post #3 of 18
(3245 views)
|
Just grind the rust out and use bondo to fill in the low spots, Doesn't look like there bad enough to need new metal put it.
You should repaint the whole panel, just repainting the spots you fix never come out that good.
Keep us posted with more pics and updates please!
--------------------------------------------------------
Your only as good as your tools!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 25, 2011, 10:08 PM
Post #4 of 18
(3242 views)
|
Matt - any reader: There's a great product that close to cancels the rust AFTER it's clean down there are still pin holes and rust is alive in those. Called "Rust Reformer" - oddly it's water based like heavy milk? Requires rust to work! Turns black and acts as a primer and work over it. Ahhh - 24hr suggested dry time.
No - I'm not an auto body tech but deal with this crap like anyone else and scream. Truth is nothing is a permanent fix like forever but it seems to help make it last lots longer. See if I can find a pic............
It works as well as anything AFTER loose rust is gone then do your work. This just goes on by brush. Hardware store item but doesn't impede what you will do next,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jun 25, 2011, 10:19 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Matt.Lisko3
User
Jun 26, 2011, 11:46 AM
Post #5 of 18
(3227 views)
|
Alright, Thanks for the Responses guys! I think I'm going to try that product Tom, I knew there were a few of those types out there but wasn't sure which product would work best.
What do you guys think about just scuffing up the paint on the door panel and putting a new coat over it? I'd like to cut the costs of sandblaster rental out of the budget if possible. I just want to make sure it still looks pretty good. The existing paint on the non rusted areas is really good, (solid, not flaking, not faded)
Do you think that would still turn out okay or is it necessary to sandblast the entire door?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 26, 2011, 2:02 PM
Post #6 of 18
(3220 views)
|
Matt - get that by brand. Read and follow directions. Again - freaking needs rust to work!
I have a snow plow for my truck and dammit they rust and usually it's an annual paint job but I'm going to go 3 or so years now with just touch ups! It's whacked but rust is "alive" and needs be killed. It will always come back if exposed to certain conditions but can, proven by me be slowed down. This crap kills it so anything new after that is just that. You can bondo, sand and paint all you want but do this first - trust me from Rusto-Chusetts
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
Matt.Lisko3
User
Jun 26, 2011, 5:39 PM
Post #7 of 18
(3213 views)
|
Alright thanks Tom!
What's a good brand of paint to buy for the base coat?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 27, 2011, 12:30 AM
Post #8 of 18
(3200 views)
|
Matt - pro auto body paint and repair is NOT my trade and never was. Stopping/slowing rust has been be it iron crap for whatever use and not pro painted.
There are body shop parts and paint places for what you are doing. Limited know how but know that lacquer or enamel based paints at top coats are not always compatible and can wrinkle up making a mess. Primers are generally tolerant of either.
Again - not my trade and more domestic stuff than car stuff for this,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Matt.Lisko3
User
Jun 27, 2011, 7:18 PM
Post #9 of 18
(3185 views)
|
Alright Thanks Tom! I think I'm going to head on down to the paint store and talk to them a little more about this and get my paint!
From what you've seen over the years...how does it look if one door gets repainted years after the original paint job? I guess the biggest thing i'm worried about is trying to match the new coat of paint on the door panel to the existing panels / body of the car.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2011, 1:05 AM
Post #10 of 18
(3181 views)
|
Again - can't expound on finish work as not my trade. Just kill the rust as best you can,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2011, 3:06 AM
Post #11 of 18
(3176 views)
|
The professionals (not me) use a blending technique to blend the new paint with the old
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
zmame
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2011, 3:27 PM
Post #12 of 18
(3167 views)
|
best way to match a paint is to paint up to the molding line all around the car mask off with tape... that way dosen't look bad. Hopfully your rust isn't to bad looks like it might be all the way through by the time you get all the rust out may require welding in a patch.
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2011, 7:07 PM
Post #13 of 18
(3163 views)
|
Yes, assuming you do have a molding to separate the paint, that will work but if the spot you want to paint buts against the same color with nothing to separate it, then you have to do some blending into the next section
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Matt.Lisko3
User
Jun 28, 2011, 7:51 PM
Post #14 of 18
(3160 views)
|
yeah there is a piece of molding there but the only issue is there are those 2 little spots that are at the top of the door or by the door handle which is above the molding.
I was talking to the guy from the paint shop today and he was telling me about putting it up in a few thin layers to try to match / blend the shade perfectly. He was also saying that if I adjust the air pressure up on my gun and keep the gun back a good way it will also help when it comes to blending. And once I go to put the clear coat on it will darken it up some too.
He told me to think of it like a swimming pool, the bottom of the pool is the same color but the deep end always looks darker cause of all the water. Its the same concept with paint too he said.
I think i'm going to try to blend it into the existing paint as best as I can and see how that looks, and if it's real noticeable i'll just repaint the entire door and see how that looks!
Thanks for all the help and advice so far guys!! I realize this isn't any of your specialties but any little bit of knowledge helps. I'm real comfortable with engines and anything mechanical but when it comes to body work that's when i start worrying!! ha
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 29, 2011, 2:59 AM
Post #15 of 18
(3151 views)
|
I'm not a body man but I know there is a specific technique to doing this. The paint is thinned more and the coats are layer in a tapering way. The old paint has to be prepped for it too.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
zmame
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 29, 2011, 4:42 AM
Post #16 of 18
(3144 views)
|
yeh im no body man either.. but living in the north on limited income has forced me to become some sort of one lol.. Usally the way I repair rust on doors is sandblast from moldings on center of the door down. I just have a cheap hand held blaster. after all the rust is out I cut out any areas that are holes weld in new metal. grind flat and a thin coat of bondo to hide any blemishes.
Then I prime the area, wet sand, wipe down with alcohol and cloth.
**mask off the car before this**
then i do 3-4 quick thin coats to prevent runs.. right after the last coat i do one coat of clear while the paint is still tacky..
once done oil coat inside of the door using fluid film or rust check spray can.
the blending I don't know how to do as hammer talking about.. If your a amature like me and want a decent outcome think this is your best choice.. it's alot of work though.
|
|
| |
|
|
Matt.Lisko3
User
Jun 29, 2011, 7:46 PM
Post #17 of 18
(3135 views)
|
yeap living up in the north eastern winter really takes a toll on vehicles with all the salt that gets put on the roadways.
For budget reasons i'm going to have to just deal with it myself. I've used paint guns a bunch in my life and I'm comfortable with that, the only think i'm uncomfortable with is blending the paint to match the existing, lol. The only other time before I painted anything on a car was a small little patch on a white door, which white appeared to me to be a pretty forgiving color and there really wasn't any blending that was required! Plus it was on a real low spot on the panel so it was always in a shadow area so you were never able to tell it was repainted.
I'm just going to use all the tips I got from you guys, the guy at the paint store, and some other stuff I read on the internet, take my time, and hope for the best.
If its like anything else I've done as long as you take your time It should come out pretty decent! I guess we'll find out soon enough. Thanks for your tips again guys!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 1, 2011, 11:34 AM
Post #18 of 18
(3116 views)
|
Matt - unless you pay big time (they are worth it) for pro work there will be flaws but you can make it better.
I hear you with the road salt in the North/East - holy Sh!t - more put out than the stupid snow or ice! Stuff is car cancer and some places don't allow it at all and will vote that way here. If you can't drive, get the "F" off the roads is my scream.
Do your best at the body work. Real fix would be a new door or awesome used one, then paint if not the same color.
Again - not a paint and body work person and send that out for my own. Restored a few neat cars but all went out for the paint/body finish. One guy/shop could paint better than new. I'm lost with much more than a spray can
You can make it better as said, perfect takes bucks!
T
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
