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anon125
New User
Jun 13, 2015, 1:31 PM
Post #1 of 12
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the car has only 80K Km about 50k miles.
the original disc pads are down to 4mm so the dealer wants to replace them.
they also want to machine the rotors.
does that make sense?
thanks all
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 13, 2015, 2:00 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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4mm pads lining left is time IMO if true. Don't fall for machining rotors also IMO. They will be under spec in no time and warp before your next round or soon and have to do it all over again. New isn't usually much more than the machine costs.
BTW - You don't need to use a dealer (definitely can be good or not) just pro work. Sorry but suggesting to machine them is just greedy for labor,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 13, 2015, 2:54 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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I'm going to totally disagree on this one. If this is the first brake job, then you definitely want to resurface the rotors. There is a minimum thickness but if they haven't been cut before and they haven't gone metal to metal. there will be plenty to resurface.
The only alternative to machining them is to replace them but doing nothing to them is not an option.You will end up with uneven braking and noises galore. Make sure they use a Ceramic bad also.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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anon125
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Jun 13, 2015, 7:12 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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thanks guys
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 13, 2015, 10:16 PM
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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? Agree to disagree on this and both can be correct. My point and just checked is there's ONLY 1m per side/face of rotor from NEW to illegally worn! They only cost about $32US each (cost, not retail) and can get about that to machine them and illegal right away. Not maybe but if just a BCH in spec they will warp long before new ones so you won't get full life out of the job. Tech doesn't give a damn you'll be long gone and I'm on the side of techs.
Cost to you about the same either way so you want used!
Tech gets no bucks on parts markup the shop does. Tech does make a buck machining the rotor now out of balance too! This is a lose, lose situation - go new is still my suggestion, Tom
PS: Specs if they show below.......Discard Thickness (mm):21.0
New Thickness (mm) :23.0
Sooooo........ Where do you think they are NOW after 80,000KMs? And you want MORE taken off - I think not! They would be at "Discard" thickness before you are out of sight.
{{You can measure that now with an open end wrench - knock off rust ring if there}}
Clara Peller (rest her soul) 'WHERE'S THE BEEF?)
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jun 13, 2015, 10:30 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 14, 2015, 4:42 AM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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OK, you want to talk specs, lets talk specs.
You posted the metric measurements. Here are the decimal conversions that the manufacturer uses.
New measurement ------ .905 inches (23mm)
Minimum after resurfacing --- .830 inches (21mm)
That give .075 inches in material that can be safely and legally removed.
The average wear will be .010 to .015 inches
The resurface will remove approx .020 to get a good surface.
That leaves another .040 left in reserve after resurfacing, so YES, you can easily resurface safely for less than 1/3 the cost of new rotors. (assuming they haven't been cut previously)
The $32 figure quoted here will not be the price a retail shop will charge you for these rotors. It will be more like $60 to $70 per rotor Most shops will charge about $10 to resurface each one.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 14, 2015, 4:44 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 14, 2015, 6:15 AM
Post #7 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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HT - No argument with you and not personal about this. It's ripping off a customer to redo rotors NOW if it was free. It's not free and prices are down for new. NAPAs here (2) quit resurfacing anything! Too many come backs on warped quickly below spec rotors plus throw in techs don't seem to wash down (nor after machining sent out or in house) the parts, let dry, so metal dust gets in new pads that both rusts and makes noise you can only fix by doing the whole job over with new parts.
It's still done, larger heavy duty stuff. Illegal here and all places to arc shoes for drums so they never fit properly and for any you have lost the balance of that wheel. In fairness cheap rotors don't seem balanced at all and smaller you don't notice at all or much.
Tried my brains out to get rotors and drums balanced and didn't find anyplace nor anymore on car whole wheel, tire, brake spin balance which always was a special request.
Judgment call by techs and customer may or may not care about anything but the bottom line. This case of a low mile vehicle chances are these same brakes wouldn't see another same round again at the rate of miles/Kms without some other reason, brake related or not.
Just if my own I would insist on new simply because it (HA) should be better -- Think we've all seen junk new as well - assorted parts.
I can't second guess what was actually seen and suggested by a place (dealer or not) what would be best for this exact vehicle and you the customer.
Tom
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Hammer Time
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Jun 14, 2015, 6:30 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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I do this on a daily basis for vehicles on their first brake job with no unusual wear or pulsation problems and have no issues with the job at all. The exceptions to this would be all German made vehicles which automatically get new rotors and any vehicle that comes in with a pulsation. This tells me that the driver is very aggressive in braking and the thinner rotors will warp even faster with the same driver. Domestic and Asian vehicles do very well with resurfaced rotors.
These cheap rotors that you are quoting prices on are "white box" Chinese made stuff with common quality issues. If you go out and price name brand rotors, you can easily get close to or exceed in some cases, the $100 mark for each rotor.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jun 14, 2015, 6:34 AM
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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Also have to take in consideration the condition of the OP's rotors. If they are cracked, gone metal to metal, hot spotted, or rusty boat anchors, replacement is the correct choice.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 14, 2015, 6:39 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 14, 2015, 8:27 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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All fine points of view.
True stuff: New isn't always better quality but can be requested for rotor/drum things.
It's also true that they aren't thicker by taking metal off. Jee, my hair is too short, think I'll get a hair cut that's longer.
Not a little bit but a lot. The heat on a thin pad or rotor matters. Both absorb heat so both being in better 1/2 of their life will be better. Heat is the enemy to all of it. Rust/corrosion resistance is lost when you add the limit of heat which thinner does by nature.
Saw too many very new looking brakes with pads fallen off from heat! Dang bonded lining glue if only that can only take so much.
Plenty of room for everyone to be correct for the exact deal in front of them. I just strongly choose new AND high quality rotors and MID quality pads. High end and cost pads so far harmed the job long run.
Any which way these brakes need work so OP sorry for carrying on there are differences in qualities of parts and valid opinions and will be on this subject,
Tom
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anon125
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Jun 14, 2015, 3:55 PM
Post #11 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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WOW who knew there was some much to know!
thanks all
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Hammer Time
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Jun 14, 2015, 4:52 PM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: 1997 CRV Brakes
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LOL........... brakes are the most simple part of a car these days. You don't even want to hear about the electrical.
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