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Supersteele
Novice
Sep 10, 2017, 10:27 AM
Post #1 of 12
(1623 views)
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I recently put new Master cylinder, new calipers, new pads and brake lines. Everything seemed fine for a couple days, now it seems as if I have no pressure, I have to put it to the floor and still it barely wants to stop. I bled the lines again today. Still same thing. What am I missing? Thanks in advance. It is a 95 c1500 pickup
(This post was edited by Supersteele on Sep 10, 2017, 10:28 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 10, 2017, 11:44 AM
Post #2 of 12
(1613 views)
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Strong guess I'm left to but must be ruled out. You replaced brake lines, there are many and some well hidden. Check fluid level first bet it's low now. Then go check your repair of the lines you did and look for more or another. Do any and all that show rust enough to flake usually where they bend at low spots where road conditions can get to them but hidden many times up and away so jacks and things don't normally harm them.
Top of rear axle would be another spot common as placed to the rear usually in coils to protect those that hold water/salt water the usual culprit longer and along frame rail where holders wrap around them.
Bet it's a mess of fluid now so unclear. Know that brake fluid will wash off with plain water or should and you can look for new slippery oil like but it's not an oil at all to show up again. Many shops will only take on (if rusted) the jobs of that if they do all that show any rust at all,
T
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Supersteele
Novice
Sep 10, 2017, 3:31 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1606 views)
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I'll look at other lines tomorrow, I thought the rest were copper or aluminum
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 10, 2017, 6:20 PM
Post #4 of 12
(1602 views)
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Sometimes the ABS system has to be bled electronically with a scan tool.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Supersteele
Novice
Sep 10, 2017, 8:07 PM
Post #5 of 12
(1595 views)
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Even on an old 1995?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 11, 2017, 5:24 AM
Post #6 of 12
(1582 views)
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Bleeding procedure from the service manual
TWO PERSON PROCEDURE (PREFERRED)
Gravity and vacuum bleeding are not recommended for this ABS system.
PROCEDURE
- Raise the vehicle to gain access to the system bleed screws. Install clear tubing on the bleed screws so that air bubbles in the fluid can be seen.
NOTE: Never pump the brake pedal as fluid cavitation may occur.
- Begin by bleeding the system at the right rear wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front.
- Open one bleed screw at a time 1/2 to 1 full turn.
- Slowly depress the brake pedal until it reaches its full travel and hold until the bleed screw has been tightened. Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15 seconds for the master cylinder to return to the home position.
NOTE: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until approximately 1 pint of brake fluid has been bled from each wheel. Clean brake fluid should be present at each of the wheel bleed screws. Check the master cylinder fluid level every 4 to 6 strokes of the brake pedal to avoid running the system dry.
- After bleeding all four wheels, use a Tech 1 Scan tool to run 4 functional tests while applying the brake pedal firmly.
- Rebleed all four wheels using steps 1 through 4 to remove the remaining air from the brake system.
- Evaluate the brake pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle and rebleed as many times as necessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Supersteele
Novice
Sep 11, 2017, 6:21 AM
Post #7 of 12
(1574 views)
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I didn't bleed the back brakes, any tips for not breaking the bleed valve?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 11, 2017, 8:23 AM
Post #8 of 12
(1569 views)
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Yes - if you allowed it to rust stuck just get a new one. Curve of brake line is nasty to those right at it, cut it off and replace that one too all the way to flex hose coupler but save the fold down metal clips if possible. Bend that line exactly and put on wheel cylinder before you mount wheel cylinder snug can help but have bolts started.
Never have a problem with bleeder if you lube them and put caps on the open ends when done bleeding,
T
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Supersteele
Novice
Sep 12, 2017, 11:56 AM
Post #9 of 12
(1553 views)
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I bled the brakes but today it just got worse and worse. I almost couldn't stop. I pulled in a gas station and pedal went to the floor and brakes locked up. I looked under the hood. The master cylinder cap blew off along with the fluid. Did I not bleed them enough?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 12, 2017, 1:30 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1550 views)
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Did you not read anything here? You need a scan tool to electronically bleed the ABS.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Supersteele
Novice
Sep 12, 2017, 1:49 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1544 views)
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Im sorry. Never heard of electronic bleeding. It is a 1995 truck. I've bled plenty of older vehicles. Someone mentioned proportional valve
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 12, 2017, 1:52 PM
Post #12 of 12
(1542 views)
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Well, this is the 3rd time you heard it in this thread.
Do you think we just make these things up?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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