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Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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eqrash
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Feb 22, 2019, 9:23 AM
Post #1 of 6
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Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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Is the self adjusting lever supposed to work best at a certain position? I put new shoes in my rear drum brakes and adjusted the brakes to catch when i just barely pull the e brake but now they are looser like they were before. Does the self adjuster only work within certain tolerances to catch after you pull the lever further?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 22, 2019, 11:59 AM
Post #2 of 6
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Re: Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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The total question and answer is going to require knowing what this vehicle is?! OK: General but not all. You adjust new shoes on drum brakes to lock a drum and back it off till free. It's integral with parking brake which unless failed cables you should never have to readjust one as the parts are back to new -- BUT! If you didn't use a new drum the shoes don't match the exact proper shape for the drum. If you didn't turn it it's still worn some. If you did there's a break in period of use it will wear to the right shape - how long totally depends on a zillion factors. You do need to lube backing plates or replace if metal of a shoe wore into the spots you did grease didn't you? - and make new ones get stuck. Start adjust types you lube or replace if that type used and hardware or it may not do any self adjusting for final right spot and along wear life. The things that will mess you up vs what you replaced are first the cables are now suddenly not right should be free as a bird or now are and were not before? You need to see that shoes retract to top anchor by just return springs not caught up on the adjuster or OMG it will fail. Simple but springs, and a cable. They are "asymmetrically: (big word mean mirror image like your hands) left and right hand parts! Larger shoe friction material of them goes to the rear of vehicle. This is old tech for use many years but as common and simple as a brake could get really it just must have all parts within spec and know it. One more: Wheel cylinder may have one of two stuck pistons at this point suggest always tossing them for new if rusty expect a real hassle with the flare nut line going to it opens Pandora's box in a simple job. Sorry for the book. If somehow you meant just a drum brake for the parking brake forget all that above. That's a static brake not really meant to operate while moving changes everything on what to do, T
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eqrash
User
Feb 22, 2019, 7:05 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Re: Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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Sorry greenbean, I forgot to inform you that it is a 2006 hyundai elantra.... I know it's Korean but its not north korean, and they really do a great job of manufacturing something that those of us whom can't afford a better car yet can actually use.... The south is fairly friendly so far anywho.... And yes, it is primarily for a parking brake, and usually that's all I use it for, but there are no other braking mechanisms on the rear and I usually use it in the snow to help me stop, since replacing it is relatively cheap and only costs me time I'd rather be using to fix something.... I did clean and lube everything but I think I need to find new backing plates for the next time I'll do it cus they're pretty rusted out everywhere except the contact points (probably the lube insulating them). However there are more than just a couple in a junkyard near me so I'ma find a pair.... That usually is all one needs to repair things though, hehe, I've seen many repair all kinds of things with a basic knowledge of physics, a parts diagram, and maybe something to look up what the proper term is for a specific part. Rich Rebuilds is a little bashful of Elon but does a great job of exemplifying such... I'm primarily concerned with the fact the lever loosened up because it's a manual, that's my main parking brake, but like you said, they're adjusted to fit and don't wear much because they just park the car.... I'll probably readjust them, the drums were within 3mm of tolerance when I installed so they probably wore the shoe to shape.... New drums are on the list. You never have to apologize for typing, unless you wrote my book... That would've been cruel of you. I would like to know though, there's a little metal grommet that guides the cable into the drum assembly on this car that I had a hard time taking off when I tried to scrap one last time I was there.... Do you know if these are pressed pieces or is there a way to remove and reinstall them? I couldn't turn it nor hammer it out....
(This post was edited by eqrash on Feb 22, 2019, 7:07 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 23, 2019, 2:02 AM
Post #4 of 6
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Re: Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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Parts and diagrams? Do you have a plain store to go to in person and get the parts? That will show all the parts arrows to each and names. Then part #s and costs for assorted makers of the parts right in front of you - it has an advantage. You could try Google Images or another search engine for this exact car lead you to a source for parts with prices that don't scare you. Rusted brake backing plates? Did you say that? Sure, things rust faster or slower all depends where car is and driven. MOST IMPORTANT FOR THIS THAT SHOULD HAVE EVERYTHING YOU CAN THINK OF NEW IS NO USED PARTS AND NO REBUILT PARTS FOR REAR DRUM BRAKES! Know the arc of a new shoe is correct for the arc of the inside of the new drum. It's only just right once and along life of the brakes. (now useless sub note: Once parts were so heavy for even cars you cut them many times and could 'arc' the shoes to match. I don't think that's legal anywhere anymore making too much brake dust to do that. DO BEWARE OF BRAKE DUST AND DO NOT BREATHE IT!!!!) I just can't post pics of exactly what you are looking at and where troubles would be, prices and parts you may need to bring or use the VIN# with you. These cars sold everywhere both right and left hand drive bet most still to the US and Canada under a different name than "Elantra" maybe? Find the parts outlet in person or on line that shows this exact brake and all the parts. The web rules but isn't going to do it for you quite yet - nor make decisions on what's right in front of YOU. Tools to measure and do all this is up to YOU. Some in person outlets will rent tools free for full deposits you need to ask one you choose. Parts should NOT be costly as things go on this. Tools are always costly to have every possible thing for repair of much of anything cars or not. Experience is the missing link of seeing a few snags and things that didn't work out how to fix it. OMG - rust is own deal all alone. There's just no way that hits each thing the same exact way only some very common things would take a total set of novels to even scratch the surface. The YouTube things will make anything seem like anybody can do anything in no time flat for almost no cost. Knowing which is full of BULLSH*T and one that isn't is again knowing it to begin with and the experience. Coming here and speaking only for myself is sharing some know how in print (typed) is tricky vs showing you in person you could instantly ask and get a quick answer, This site isn't set up to be instant with live cameras to do that nor am I sport. Other: I'm fully aware of many countries around the world changes I think from 196 of them up or down one including Korea. You might find this car wasn't actually made there at all IDK it's printed on inside of a door jam usually when a car/vehicle is made new. If not there or altered info from new and is a legit car you could find out to a point. One more: This car isn't old at all yet but may be worn and show lots of use, rust or not, damage fixed or not? Tom
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eqrash
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Feb 23, 2019, 11:30 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Re: Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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mmkay.... Do you know how to get those little grommets out though? the one that guides the brake cable into the drum from the backside of the backing plate? Are they usually pressed in or threaded do you know?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 23, 2019, 2:07 PM
Post #6 of 6
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Re: Rear drum brake self adjuster question
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If not replacing it you shouldn't have to remove that at all. Tool will retract spring to lever hardware for removal and installing as needed, may not? Other shown I'll try to show pictures would be a clamp around grommet with bolt to body. Do anything not to bust that off! Ask if that type. Another is common to things is just a horseshoe clip you pry out and tap back in. If that clip busts I didn't see it sold separately? Ask at parts store. Pics may not show - I can't help that?? 1. > > (didn't show - link here pick what you wish out of picture/YouTubes >> https://www.google.com/...-wiz-img._I53Hm_MdKg That shows a horshoe clip not on yours same idea. 2.> That isn't showing the band and bolt should also be my WORDs "a horseshoe clip. I could Google around till the cat comes home truth is it should be obvious just looking at it. Not show less common for Asian anything is spread out barbs you need to squeeze with either another tool or be able with assorted pliers. Again - You shouldn't have to remove whole cable at all unless it's part of the problem? Tom
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Feb 23, 2019, 2:21 PM)
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