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lvl
New User
Oct 29, 2014, 5:25 PM
Post #1 of 5
(1989 views)
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I have a 1979 Chev El Camino with a 305 motor, P.S., P.B. I had the right front hose break and after I changed it , I bled the master cyl and then the brakes, starting at the right rear. couldn't get much fluid at the rears. Checked the master cyl and although it seemed ok since I got it at Auto Zone (lifetime guarantee), I figure what the heck, it was 9 years old so I got another one (since it was free), bench bled it, installed and bled brakes again. I seem to have a fair peddle, not hard, but not going down to the floor when I held it down. So I start the car and the peddle goes all the way to the floor. Turn off motor and after 2 presses on the brake it's back up. Start the car - pedal goes to floor, Rebled about 2 times
(even used vacuum pump method). Still the same thing. I feel it's could be the Power Booster but at $100 a pop I don't like to troubleshoot that way. Any suggestions?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 29, 2014, 5:36 PM
Post #2 of 5
(1986 views)
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Re: braking problems
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A power booster will not cause a low pedal. I might suspect the other flex hoses. In order for a pedal to drop like that when the pressure is increased, you either have air that is compressing or rubber that is stretching.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 29, 2014, 6:34 PM
Post #3 of 5
(1977 views)
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Re: braking problems
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? What type of bleeding for master did you do? I suspect something with that didn't go right. Regular bleeding with this car if no particular issue should plain gravity bleed out and wonder if vacuum bleeding sucked in more air?
Agree that it's not a booster issue but rather air still or another item blown out,
T
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Bort
User
Nov 28, 2014, 3:16 AM
Post #4 of 5
(1854 views)
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Re: braking problems
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Did you figure this out and get it fixed?
Did you disconnect the battery when you bled? Even on older cars, you should pull at least the negative off the battery. Primitive, maybe, but some older cars did have an anti-lock system that would cause this exact issue if you didn't yank a battery cable before bleeding.
No ABS? Sounds like you may have a leak somewhere then. Either in the hoses or the brake cylinders. Or maybe you have brake cylinders that just aren't working for some reason.
Put it on jack stands if you don't have a lift, put a bed sheet or something under the entire car if you're not on a concrete floor that will show fluids, take all 4 tires off, fire it up, mash the brake pedal to the floor. If you have a leak somewhere you'll see approximately where it is due to where the fluid is on the floor or sheet.
No leaks? Bleed it again. The entire system.
Always bleed the furthest wheel from the master cylinder first. Then the next furthest, then the next furthest, then the closest wheel, then the cylinder it self if you don't have a solid pedal.
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