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jackx
User
Jun 15, 2016, 10:20 AM
Post #1 of 11
(1750 views)
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I put some front new rotors and new brake pads on my 1989 gmc s15 4.3 Jimmy. Now I can hear them
dragging. What should I do to stop the dragging. I was thinking that maybe I could put some
lube on the two slider bolts. Will this help or is there something else I need to do.
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kev2
Veteran
Jun 15, 2016, 10:34 AM
Post #2 of 11
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well your expected to clean and grease them - there is often a special grease supplied - just ask for it at part store.
there are anti rattle clips, pads etc...
Hope you did NOT let calipers hang 'dangle' on brake lines during work...
(This post was edited by kev2 on Jun 15, 2016, 10:35 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 15, 2016, 10:58 AM
Post #3 of 11
(1742 views)
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They're supposed to drag somewhat. They don't have return springs. They merely relieve the pressure.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 16, 2016, 1:27 AM
Post #4 of 11
(1726 views)
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Some drag normal till you've driven along as said but you shouldn't notice. Lube calipers as also mentioned - actually should be a routine service if there anyway always check or relube any pins, spots intended for lube. If you don't know you really shouldn't be touching brakes.
Also said - don't let caliper hang by hose. Always support it, hang it with wire or what works - bungee cord - something. You pull on hose hard enough just plan on replacing both at this age anyway not a bad idea for a second or third set.
Refresh: Some drag expected right in front of you but not after any driving along. Pretty much front wheels while on but hoisted should coast when spun by hand and if not it's hanging up and needs attention,
T
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jackx
User
Jun 20, 2016, 6:35 AM
Post #5 of 11
(1690 views)
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I have put a lot of brake pads on my vehicles over the years. I don't let the calipers hang either.
On occasion though I have had one slip and drop before I got it was secure while I changed out the pads.
This old truck has 279,000 miles on it. I have driven it about 80-100 miles since I put the pads on
and with the windows down you can hear them dragging. If you jack it up and spin the tire it drags.
The drag does not make it hard to turn the tire. I just makes a lot of racket. I hate to just start
replacing stuff without knowing what is bad though. It was not dragging before I put the new pads
and new rotors on.
The price of the parts is not that much. Can the calipers be bad? They have a lot of miles on them.
Should I start with the hoses and if that does not fix it then get some more calipers.
When I greased up the slider bolts they were not that rusty but I did notice some flat rub marks on them.
I thought about putting the old pads back on because they are only about half worn out but when you
press them together there is a slight rock back and forth which may have been caused by the old rotors.
So I figure they are shot. The shake in the steering wheel is gone now but it appears the rear drums
may need to be replaced too because I can feel some shake from the rear end now when I use the brakes
to slow down at 70 mph. You can feel it in the brake pedal.
Everything else under the front end is much new and has been checked out by an alignment shop.
I've never had this come up before when I put on new brake pads.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 20, 2016, 7:04 AM
Post #6 of 11
(1686 views)
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Again .............. what you have is normal. You don't have a problem. They will probably quiet down once they seat.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 20, 2016, 7:10 AM
Post #7 of 11
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IDK what a "dragging" sound you say really means? Doesn't matter if you've done "pads" a zillion times and now have some that aren't behaving in one way or another. Calipers have pins I think and rubber inside that if all worn out would be loose at some point you really have to toss everything for new usually long before 270K miles. Rotor to hub I think it just pulls off and any crust not assertively cleaned out the rotor will wobble even a new one if crust on the hub.
Outer pads I think all you bend the ears to be tight. If you whack those and hit just wrong you crack the pad and sorry to say I've done that.
Inner should be a spring, just a hook either already on pad or attached. Not always tight enough so you bend that just right.
Flex hoses really don't need a reason to mess up. Just pushing back pistons the flow is backwards in volume. They can act like a check valve and drag then let go or stay dragging now allowing fluid release.
As brakes go these are about as straight forward as they get. Didn't look back at how worn these were or if you did anything with calipers but by now if worn enough piston had come out quite far and can go cock-eyed and damage it. You would see that unless you took it apart and if you did you replace the rubber ring and dust seal which cost more than another caliper about now.
If you recall if pads were riveted or bonded the riveted ones are more likely IMO to crack - whacked behavior if they do and only looking right at them again will tell.
You may have to just take this all apart (pretty easy as they go) and look at what's wrong,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 20, 2016, 7:26 AM
Post #8 of 11
(1682 views)
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Are you sure it's not the backing plate touching the rotor that you're hearing?
Pads generally don't make any noise when they drag.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 20, 2016, 7:27 AM)
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jackx
User
Jun 20, 2016, 8:00 AM
Post #9 of 11
(1679 views)
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You are right on the money Hammertime. I got to thinking after I made the post and that
racket sounded like metal on metal.
So, I pulled the rotor off the one that was making the racket and the backing plate
was rubbing the new rotor about 3/4 down the way from the outer edge. Now the new
rotor has some grooves in it but it is on the back below where the pads rub. I hope that
won't cause any new problems.
Wow that must be a tight fit.
I wacked it a couple times with a body shop hammer so it would not get dented and
presto no more racket.
Tks for the help. You can close this now if you want. I am good to go.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 20, 2016, 8:06 AM
Post #10 of 11
(1678 views)
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I doubt it actually grooved the rotor, just left some marks. Yes, the clearance is usually less than 1/8 inch in some places.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 20, 2016, 8:29 AM
Post #11 of 11
(1675 views)
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Can argue the scratches from a backing plate but they shouldn't cause a real braking force problem at all unless out of control - if they stop properly, no pulling pad will match the scratch or rotor smooth out a bit on its own,
T
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