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Ford Man
Novice
Oct 7, 2014, 2:27 AM
Post #1 of 6
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I try to post a picture and it says my E mail is not valid
BOB LECH
BOB LECH
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 7, 2014, 3:30 AM
Post #2 of 6
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Re: to ADMIN OF THIS AUTO FORUM
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Pics can and are tricky here. Try using a hosting site like Photobucket and link the pic to it here. Not a guru but all kinds of settings on assorted devices can and will prevent pics from showing up or not. When given a choice try to view it such that it fits in a screen by most. Some are so large they ruin the view of an entire thread.
Other is to find a similar picture of what you want or need to show thru a search engine then copy and paste it. Some of those work, some don't and some expire.
It is a snag in the system just keep trying,
T
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Ford Man
Novice
Oct 7, 2014, 6:18 AM
Post #3 of 6
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Hi Tom,
I got a post from the moderator saying I gave wrong information,posted a link and responded to an old post.
Well I worked on engines from the small Briggs M-48 6 CLY fuel injected 905 HP tanks,choppers,Was an engine rebuilder for MAC trucks,Cooper Jarret Trucking and had my own speed shop.
I mention the compresion fitting and thought i worded it the same as you did
(If line isn't long enough get two and a union.)
I located a vendor on line that charges $55.00 for 25 feet of SS line and all the needed bolts,clips and the 2 flex lines.
I located the leak but it's in a location that there would be no way to cut the line and have enough room so I can get a good solid grip on the tubing wrenches and tighten them like they should be.
I called a brrake shop and they said to bring it in today and for $40.00 the'll make a line with the fittings and install it but it will be secured to the fire wall and have rubber on the clips.
I thank you for all your help and I have not a clue to ever posting a link unless the did not like what I put in my profile.They never said I could not place a link on my profile.
Take care GOD BLESS
BOB LECH
BOB LECH
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 7, 2014, 7:47 AM
Post #4 of 6
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Link posting is greatly to protect this FREE site from sending folks to other sites. It's free because we all volunteer our time AND whatever ads you do see top, bottom here are PAID for which runs this joint - that simple.
Pics are easy or hard depending on your device as said somewhere. My own refuses but if I really work at it post it somewhere else and copy just the content to here pic or if I can drag, highlight, copy and paste.
As for brake line and the how to that belongs on a separate discussion if not already found and credible. Stainless is NOT necessary for this/your car. Compression fitting are what I call the beveled ring you put over a line and when tight those seal and work but it's seal is the OUTSIDE of the line. Fine for an ice maker for home use and more just not for brake anything as the real seal is the inside of the line + the outside just holds it together. Notice you never need nor does it work Teflon tape as brakes and fuel + oil carrying line is generally not plumbing but flare nut and line much stronger of a seal.
Back to line repair. If you just can't feasibly follow the original path you need to think as I've said. You must have noticed the curly spring look done at master cylinders too. That's because of a few things. Those lines go on to things fixed to frames or other body metal plus master actually moves some under high pressure and need the flex some which those coils allow without making tons of flex hoses all over a vehicle. Those are a weak link in some designs.
It's getting harder at parts stores in general to just find the area all brake stuff, lines, unions, flare tools, tubing benders and adaptor fittings when line sizes change.
If you do mega tons of this work all the time you would stock all of it and I did/do still have lots as just hunting around takes up all day never mind the fix.
Two choices for you. Send it out totally and forget it to a shop that has a clue. Buy basics for doing it yourself and making lines that fit properly and make good new flares with a plain tool not some high speed hydraulic machine like you need to make 100s all the time as you don't.
There are many things you can do for assorted things that you can't justify the expense of the tools.
We should and I can't separate just this from this thread but if I get motivated today to look at that line on my own will come back and see how hard the whole line would be to do in existing location. I personally would NOT use the firewall on this if at all reasonable not to up to tilting the engine if need be I'd want ONE contiguous line where it is out of sight for this exact chassis of vehicle,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 7, 2014, 7:50 AM
Post #5 of 6
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There was a link in your post so it was either put in manually or it can also happen if the text was copied and pasted from another site.
This site does not recommend installing compression fittings in brake lines so please don't post anything recommending it, regardless of what your experience may have been..
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 7, 2014, 8:29 AM
Post #6 of 6
(1676 views)
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Re: Subject Switch to 89 Country Sq. Brake line
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OK - You made me do it. Just looked right at what should be exact same for your car. Line (one OE) goes from RF brake hose all in sight all under but back side with just two line holders and up to proportioning valve. This is a DIY cake walk as things go! That if you've played with any brake line stuff at all.
I could have that done in less than an hour most of which wasted looking for crap in my shop
There's a good chance and I didn't measure it with a string that you can get that line so close to the length already with flares and nuts you just bend and install it - high bet on that.
Then bleed the heck out of whole system front and rear just do it up good and know bleeders all work.
You should use/need flare nut wrenches and bleeder wrenches but can do with some plain flare nut wrenches for some obscured bleeders not the calipers on this at all.
Undoing oil line leave the flex hose in place as it should be stuck there. If messed up there it compounds how much more you may need to do.
In short I can't see a dang reason in the world to route this any other way than where it is originally.........
Tom
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