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1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke


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Orcky723
New User

Jun 24, 2015, 3:09 AM

Post #1 of 7 (2160 views)
post icon 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

Hi,

Car details:
1998
Nissan
Pulsar(Almera) N15
1.6L
140000 kms
Automatic Transmission

I'm new to this forum so bare with me. I went to change the oil in my car for the first time. I put engine flush in the engine before draining. I made a mistake and drained the Transmission fluid thinking it was the oil sump. I then replaced the oil filter, put new oil in the car and went to start. At this point, i now had double the oil in the car and no transmission fluid. As you would expect, the car wouldnt change gears, but by now the car was pumping thick white plumes of smoke out the tailpipe. After realising, i drained the oil sump, and refilled the transmission fluid. I refilled the engine oil. Both are in the correct range on the dipsticks. However the white smoke is still there. It is clearly white. The engine runs smooth still. I am 90% sure (with no experience what so ever) that it isn't the headgasket because none of the fluids; coolant, oil or transmission; show any signs of contamination. There is no leaking at all. The car ran fine before today with out ever breaking down, overheating etc. No milky oil, no oil in coolant, transmission fluid is normal red colour. What could this be? When you accelerate, it pumps more smoke out. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!

- Jonathan


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 24, 2015, 3:28 AM

Post #2 of 7 (2151 views)
Re: 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

That could have been a very fatal mistake. Smoke from double oil in engine would produce wild smoke but usually very light copious blue cloud up to oil dripping out tail pipe. Could take a lot of use to fully burn off if nothing else was damaged.


Flushing engine was also a fatal mistake. That's just not a fix an if you had evidence that it was all sludge up that engine already was in trouble. Never do that again to anything.


No offense but for the cost of getting an oil change done perhaps this isn't for you,


T



Orcky723
New User

Jun 24, 2015, 3:39 AM

Post #3 of 7 (2145 views)
Re: 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

Thankyou for your reply!

So would do you think the problem is, and what would you recommend?


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Jun 24, 2015, 4:24 AM

Post #4 of 7 (2137 views)
Re: 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

The PCV system probably sucked in a bunch of oil. Good bye O2 sensors. Sure the catalyst isn't too happy about that either. Eventually the oil will burn off.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 24, 2015, 4:38 AM

Post #5 of 7 (2136 views)
Re: 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

Initial problem with way too much oil is crankshafts can splash in oil and or so high up and down piston movement creates a hydraulic lock or harms real parts of engine. The flush idea just added more level to the oil and probably had no time to work but that is about always too fast if an engine is sludged up otherwise no reason other than changing oil alone is full of new detergents just slow so it doesn't throw a clot of junk and kill the engine quickly!


Trans low is it's own problem. You had to notice quickly so probably didn't kill it too!


More: Now oil burning that got into combustion area to exhaust if running well a good sign for now. It could take quite some drive time and heat to burn it all out. The issue is what it might have harmed to get there AND if it will kill catalytic converter or plug it up and if nothing else wrong and all this magically didn't ruin this car you lucked out.


No joke sport. Whole engine was at risk. Trans overhaul could have been next. Then a wrecked converter all huge bucks for a dang oil change!


OK - we all have to learn but it doesn't have to cost all those items or essentially make this a boat anchor vs costs possible to get out of it.


If quite and running well I really don't know of anything but to drive it till oil is all burned away. It will quit it. If it loses power evenly converter is probably clogging up. Just hope oils passed thru it and it's OK.


IMO most if any serious damage is done now. It's just getting it to stop smoking and see if converter is wrecked. Engine if really harmed would show it now by all odds,


T



Orcky723
New User

Jun 24, 2015, 6:41 AM

Post #6 of 7 (2125 views)
Re: 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

Thanks again for the quick reply! I really apreciate all the help here people :)

In response to yours Tom, the engine does run smooth, but it's pumping out sooooooo much white smoke when accelerating. However, the smoke has gone down on idle, to next to nothing. I haven't driven it since changing the oil. Should I perhaps take it for a drive in the back streets of my suburb close to my house after like 12am, so there is no one around and I can let the oil burn off?

- Jonathan


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 24, 2015, 7:10 AM

Post #7 of 7 (2117 views)
Re: 1998 Nissan Pulsar White Smoke Sign In

If you are running smooth time to buy a lotto ticket as you probably lucked out big time!


Smoke can be wild. No real telling how much is where. A muffler can hold quite a bit at bottom and not be hot enough unless driven rather fast and seriously do that in a place you won't be noticed as it might put out a blinding fog behind you.


True story of now quite a while ago: '78 Mercury Zephyr was knocking? After tons of checking was in fact a lead/carbon build up on pistons and inside head sounding much like a blown engine really. What the problem was is fuel stations did cheat and put leaded fuel in unleaded tanks to save a buck highly likely. Could see the problem but questioned what to do and answer was to slowly pour automatic trans fluid down then a carbureted engine when fully warmed up and hold revs high enough. One qt. known directly into combustion slowly. No smoke at first then a cloud that you would think a warehouse was on fire!


Yup - waited till dark as you couldn't even follow that car it was so thick. Didn't really take too long rather being rough and hard driving it for it to totally quit smoking and the carbon knock (sounded just like rod knock) was gone, cleaned out and that car lived a full and happy life after that! Don't do that - there are other ways with less commotion than that.


In short - you have to drive your car (stay legal) with high RPM (within limits) till it really heats up exhaust all the way out. Highway or a less travelled road with some higher speed limits. If needed force (use common sense with this) it to a lower gear than it would in full automatic selection to get RPMs up. Fast starts from stop. All things you shouldn't normally do but a good engine will take it and be done with the smoke.
If smoke continues after perhaps just 1/2 hour or less of that it's either excessive beyond belief or a problem probably PCV is still sucking up oils that should be long gone from inside engine when drained now and correct level.


DS mentioned O2 sensors too. Hmmm? Can't say for sure on those or the converter? It may burn off clean enough or not. So yes you need to kinda abuse engine like a race car to get it to work hard and make exhaust very hot.


If anything doesn't feel right about the way it runs quit with beating on it to cure smoke and see if you can find out if maybe plugs are fouled up too much. Clean those with propane torch heat till they glow or replace as needed. If you burn plugs clean use vise grips on non firing end to hold it and let it cool way down (takes quite a while) to touch to install again. New the better choice.


Cross fingers - you might get lucky and I thank you if this all works for pissing off a ton of mosquitos with all that smokeTongue


T







 
 
 






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