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Thanatos2786
Novice
Jan 10, 2015, 1:11 PM
Post #1 of 18
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Engine noise. Waterpump?
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Hi, I have a 2009 Ford Escape xlt 3.0L AWD and the engine is making a weird noise. I only notice it when the vehicle is warm and idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ojl1UVk-W0E&feature=youtu.be
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 10, 2015, 1:24 PM
Post #2 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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Did you pinpoint the noise to the water pump using a mechanic's stethoscope or long screw driver?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Thanatos2786
Novice
Jan 10, 2015, 1:37 PM
Post #3 of 18
(3266 views)
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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No I didn't pinpoint it. But it's coming from the right side of the engine.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 10, 2015, 1:40 PM
Post #4 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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Maybe you should attempt pinpointing the noise to be sure.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Thanatos2786
Novice
Jan 10, 2015, 1:56 PM
Post #5 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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I'll try. I wasn't sure if the water pump could make a noise like that. I thought they just died.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 10, 2015, 1:56 PM
Post #6 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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Did I hear the right 7 second non video but on YouTube?
If so, if you can't find that noise from a mile away something is wrong with your hearing. Take belt off and turn the pullies or pumps at fault will probably fall off in your hands never mind feel funny. That or engine is falling off its mounts!
T
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 10, 2015, 2:05 PM
Post #7 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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You could try what Tom suggested by removing the water pump drive belt to see if the noise stops and to see if the pump bearing is any good. Don't run the engine too long with the belt removed. It is a stretch belt and you might need the special tool to get it off or on. If the belt looks bad or something has been leaking onto it, replace it.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 10, 2015, 2:20 PM
Post #8 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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! Sounded like a bowling ball in a washing machine to me. Probably don't even need to open the hood. Seriously, even with belt on the culprit item should be easy to find by feel or now even just watching!
T
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Thanatos2786
Novice
Feb 21, 2015, 12:19 AM
Post #9 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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This is what is making the noise.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 21, 2015, 5:40 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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No, it's not that exact spot. That is the thermostat housing and there is nothing inside that area but coolant.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Thanatos2786
Novice
Feb 21, 2015, 9:53 AM
Post #11 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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I used a long screw driver to listen to everything around there and it was easily the loudest. Any idea what it could be?
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 21, 2015, 10:42 AM
Post #12 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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You could always do some exploratory surgery. Drain the coolant and remove the housing to see what is going on. The noise could be echoing up through the housing?
The noise sounds like something is rotating and scraping. Have you removed the belt and turned the pump by hand to feel for loose bearings or binding on turns?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Double J
Veteran
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Feb 21, 2015, 4:09 PM
Post #13 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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Edit............
Don't know what happened, did what i always do, never had a problem before....Aw hell, blame it on Tommy...We haven't blamed him for anything in awhile.
I posted a pic showing the OP the exact location of the water (coolant) pump , so if he is hearing the noise by the T-stat housing, it just may be the water pump.
See if this image shows
(This post was edited by Double J on Feb 22, 2015, 6:26 PM)
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 22, 2015, 7:23 AM
Post #14 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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J, for some reason your image isn't showing up on my puter.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 22, 2015, 7:31 AM
Post #15 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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It's here but doesn't show either without being in that club or something?
>> http://arrc.ebscohost.com/...-b/1894/n0085335.jpg <<
Don't ask about pics and this site?????????????
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Feb 22, 2015, 7:32 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 22, 2015, 9:11 AM
Post #16 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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That picture link is passworded. The settings need to be changed to public view.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Double J
Veteran
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Feb 22, 2015, 6:28 PM
Post #17 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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See my edit............
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Double J
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Feb 22, 2015, 7:16 PM
Post #18 of 18
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Re: Engine noise. Waterpump?
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Just came across this TSB from Ford
TSB
09-17-8 3.0L INTERMITTENT CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT KNOCK/THUMP NOISE Publication Date: August 25, 2009
FORD: 2009 Escape MERCURY: 2009 Mariner
This article supersedes TSB 09-11-6 to update the Service Procedure and Part List. ISSUE:
Some 2009 Escape and Mariner vehicles, equipped with 3.0L engine, may exhibit an intermittent knocking or thumping type noise from the cylinder head. After engine temperature reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C), the noise is typically heard from the rear of the engine as the vehicle comes to a stop. An example would be coming to a stop at the end of a highway exit ramp. Noise will continue 45-60 seconds and then diminish. Noise will occur again once engine reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C) and vehicle comes to another stop. ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE
- Is noise a 45-60 second knock/thump from a hot engine as the vehicle comes to a stop?
- Yes - Go to Step 2.
- No - Stop as this procedure does not apply. Proceed with normal Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-04 diagnostics.
- Using Chassis Ears, isolate the noise to Right Hand (RH) (Bank 1) or Left Hand (LH) (Bank 2) cylinder head. Noise is typically heard as 45-60 second knock/thump as the vehicle comes to a stop after engine reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C).
- Isolate noise to RH - Listen to the cylinder head by the variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid connectors. There will also be a vibration felt at the VCT solenoid connector when noise is present. Noise from RH - go to Step 3.
- Isolate noise to LH - Listen to the cylinders 4 and 6 valve cover fasteners (number 6 is by the coolant pump). There will be a significant difference in transmitted noise between the cylinder 4 and 6 fasteners when noise is present. Noise from LH - go to Step 4.
NOTE: THE RH AND LH NOISES HAVE DIFFERENT CAUSES. FOLLOW ALL STEPS CAREFULLY FOR PROPER DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR.
- Replace the RH cylinder head per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-01B.
- Verify repair by repeating Step 2. If noise is still present then proceed with normal engine NVH diagnostics per WSM, Section 100-04.
- Remove LH valve cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01.
- Rotate the engine clockwise until cylinder number 6 exhaust cam lobes are pointing up and valves are fully closed. Exhaust camshaft needs to be left in this position for all bearing caps in Step 4b. (Figure 1)
Figure 1 - Article 09-17-8
- On the LH exhaust camshaft only, starting at the front of the engine with the thrust bearing cap (1L), perform the following on all 5 camshaft bearing caps: (Figure 2)
Figure 2 - Article 09-17-8
NOTE: EACH CAM CAP MUST BE COMPLETELY REMOVED AND INSTALLED, PER INSTRUCTIONS, BEFORE PROCEEDING TO NEXT CAM CAP OR DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE MAY OCCUR.
- Loosen both bolts.
- Remove cap.
- Install cap and push cap toward intake camshaft while tightening bolts, excluding thrust bearing cap (1L).
- Torque bolts to 89 lb-in (10 N-m) starting with bolt closest to intake camshaft.
- Proceed to next cam cap.
NOTE: CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS MUST BE ASSEMBLED IN THEIR ORIGINAL POSITIONS AND ORIENTATION. FAILURE TO INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS IN THEIR ORIGINAL POSITIONS AND ORIENTATION MAY RESULT IN SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE.
- Install the LH valve cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01.
- Verify repair by repeating Step 2. If noise is still present then proceed with normal engine NVH diagnostics per WSM, Section 100-04.
PART NUMBER PART NAME AL8Z-6049-A RH Cylinder Head 9L8Z-6584-A RH Valve Cover Gasket 9L8Z-6584-B LH Valve Cover Gasket WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part. OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 091708A 2009 Escape, Mariner 3.0L Engine: Replace The RH Cylinder Head. Includes Time To Road Test And Diagnose (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 9.4 Hrs. 091708B 2009 Escape, Mariner 3.0L Engine: Remove The LH Valve Cover, Remove And Install LH Exhaust Camshaft Bearing Caps. Includes Time To Road Test And Diagnose (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 2.1 Hrs. 091708C 2009 Escape, Mariner 3.0L Engine: Replace The RH Cylinder Head, Remove And Install LH Exhaust Camshaft Bearing Caps. Includes Time To Road Test And Diagnose (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 9.5 Hrs. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 6049 07
(This post was edited by Double J on Feb 22, 2015, 7:16 PM)
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