|
|
|
1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
|
|
| |
|
|
mbeavy
New User
Jul 1, 2015, 7:52 PM
Post #1 of 11
(2022 views)
|
|
1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
1994 Ford Taurus 3.8 L EFI 6 Cyl 205,000 miles
I bought the car about 6 months ago, and some of the dash lights have always flicker'd on and off, the low battery light, the check engine light also, and the fasten seatbelt light always stays on, no matter what. All this no biggee to me. About 2 weeks ago, on the way to work, my radio stopped working. When i got to work, I checked my fuses, and a 15 amp was blown, so after work I bought some fuses, but every time I put one in it would arc and snap. on my 5th attempt, it arced, but didn't blow (awesome I thought). But the next morning, no radio. A pack of fuses later, it would only take a fuse when I put one in with the car running (weird) It was fine the whole ride, but quit on the ride home, and this time wouldn't accept a fuse no matter what, so i left it blown and had no radio a couple days. I tried a new fuse 2 days later, and it worked, drove to work, with radio, but when I got there and turned the car off, the radio stayed on, so I turned the power to the radio off, thinking no big deal, but at lunch when i tried to start the car, the battery was dead, so it was drawing power the whole morning I guess. After work, I jumped the battery, drove home, with radio, and when i turned the car off and the radio stayed on, i pulled the fuse. It started fine the next morning, I drove to work, with radio, turned the car off, pulled the fuse, put it back in before going home and all was good. Halfway home it started raining, turned on my wipers, but they didn't work, then the radio quit. when I got home, I checked all my fuses, none were blown, not even the 15 amp one that ran the radio. I went to a U-pull-it auto place and got a used wiper motor thinking that was it, i installed it, but still no wipers, or radio. In the morning I started the car, no wipers, but my radio worked. After work, no wipers or radio. In the morning, my radio worked, no wipers, After work neither worked, and neither has since, but that fuse has never blown again. Now, I can live without a radio( but I hate it), but no wipers is dangerous. Any idea how I can go about fixing this?(both, I hope) I'm not the greatest with electric stuff, but I know my way around a car and I follow directions well.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 2, 2015, 5:30 AM
Post #2 of 11
(2007 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
You're right - a mess. IDK - is radio or anything installed aftermarket - radio almost must be by now? If things are all hacked in using just whatever wires provide power and ground as needed it will be the first place to look and backtrack to straighten out.
If you've been putting higher amp fuses in one that blows now more erratic it's burned up somewhere.
You said one or same one wouldn't even "accept'' a new fuse? What do you mean by that? Spot for the fuse all melted and messed up or what? If so at the age you may need to get lucky and find a whole same car for wiring portions that match at pick your own parts type junkyard.
Question: When radio wouldn't turn off and battery found dead - does this ignition key stop to total off in the right spot or can you pull key out earlier than that or almost any location? Was a problem around those years and older IMO not well fixed by recalls or much but some tricks worked right at the key. That a separate issue along with the mess,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mbeavy
New User
Jul 2, 2015, 6:35 PM
Post #3 of 11
(1994 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
I do believe this is the original radio, going by the way the one looked at the U-pull-it lot. I didn't put in higher amp fuses in the blown ones place, I've been told that's not recommended(dangerous) What I meant by "wouldn't accept any fuses" was it would immediately blow every 15 amp I attempted to put in. so I just left the blown fuse in and figured I'd have to use the car with no radio, but then 2 days later, just because I had no clue what else to try, I put in another new 15 amp fuse, and it didn't arc or blow and the radio worked, but that was when I turned the car off the radio stayed on. as to your question about my ignition switch, yes it is very sloppy, spins all over the place if you want it to. I thought maybe that was the problem myself, but I know little about what's involved with that. What do you mean by IMO? Do you think my problem could be in the ignition switch, and how do I go about fixing this?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 2, 2015, 8:46 PM
Post #4 of 11
(1988 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
OK - "IMO" = In My Opinion. I'll stop using acronyms at all if better.
Ignition switches/lock on column has been a "thing" with several Fords of an entire era. Yes - it could be part of the problem in conjunction with the ignition switch which is down lower than the key/lock itself.
In that this can be intermittent with blowing fuses and when radio can work or not it's highly suspect now. When this was newer I might be looking for a whole good column but think by now there wouldn't be a lot of good ones (whole) this age.
Is the key switch itself all worn and sloppy by the key or do you think the tumblers themselves? You can get that new now without a problem just a different key unless you did doors and all too and wouldn't at this unless having two keys really bothers you.
Last one did this crap with the key not clear as to what position it was in and pulled out while leaving ignition on and still empowered finding dead battery on that car which was on it's last legs. I only checked it so far and was away from shop so took a silver Sharpie to mark where to turn key to, to every time when off, wheel would normally lock and nothing happened again to that car over that but wasn't blowing fuses either.
Not real sure what to suggest you do? Guess I'd put a new ignition switch in this AND a new ignition key lock as well and inspect the wear on the column parts while there. If airbag equipped this really should be done by a shop or get exacting procedures and tools to do this as it requires pulling off the steering wheel to change the key.
Note: Next time you may be at a pick your own junk yard bring a container and fill it with assorted fuses by color and size. I've done that here with a wild assortment as the dang things are expensive new if blowing all the time checking things and never saved on a junked car that I know of so place doesn't care. Same with common bulbs and relays out of good clean, fresh junked vehicles that indicate they were running when scrapped,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mbeavy
New User
Jul 3, 2015, 6:38 PM
Post #5 of 11
(1969 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
The key, when engaged, isn't sloppy, I mean, I can't pull it out while the car is running, but the black thing on the column that you insert the key into(is this the cylinder?)can be spun around to any position without ever locking up before the key has been inserted. I can only put the key in when its in the correct position, but will spin none the less. How is this connected to my electrical problem?, Is this cylinder wired?, or by being faulty is it relaying bad info to the computer deal in my car? I think the keyed part(Tumblers) is still good, unless that part is electrical also, so I'll get a new ignition switch I think. Do I have to take off the steering wheel to do this part?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 4, 2015, 4:11 AM
Post #6 of 11
(1961 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
Happy 4th!
OK - Keyed stuff common to many automotive applications but specifically ignition is mostly just key holding what I'll call "tumblers" which isn't a term totally used out of the way such that it turns. Basic pic of a key, and a moving part at opposite end..........
Another should be your exact key. Tab at end turns a rod or device.......
Was there ^^^^
^^^^ Was there?
It should be only allowed to turn right where key is when working properly held tight to hole it's in. When key is in place then it can push/pull a rod (device) that in turn does the electrical functions of the ignition and what is enabled in what position.
If that pic showed the crudest concept is about the same. It shouldn't be loose or able to do much unless key is in it which in this car will only (should) allow key to be pulled out when in total OFF position held by a barb that retracts only in that spot. That all wears out with use with "in my opinion" inferior metals, plastics and lubrication as needed.
In short this must be part of some problems if not all or most. It's allowing the electrical ignition switch to send on power (good guess) when it shouldn't and items to draw power when they shouldn't.
Keyed part is lock + cylinder.
Ignition switch is down lower and can do most all vehicles without removing the steering wheel.
The physical key is only so strong and even for a 1994 is doing a lot. It turns as it should and also unlocks the steering wheel. When key is inserted it also knows it's there to give you a "ding or buzz" sound if door is also opened or perhaps lights are still on - any of that could also mess up and draw power or short?
Try something on a guess as this and many things are hard to describe versus being right there looking right at an feeling this in person. Look at your key. If you have the original spare and it isn't used use it and see if then it feels right again OR go get a spare made from one that at least works as they are usually brass and wear out sides or original and cut. New from a blank really only needs the same cut.
A problem with the whole thing is the key really shouldn't be turning much of anything. Not seeing this one exactly the key should just enable you to turn the thing by an outer and stronger two tabs no longer touching the key needed at all.
So, if another key you have now or have one made for a couple bucks (no funky features to this that I know of) might end the troubles or perhaps a whole new cylinder with key installed which does require taking wheel off and special tools. With enough parts removed you or a lock person could see if other things are worn where assembly is housed, rods and clips the hold the rods on to the actual electrical ignition switch.
General suggestion for this type saw tooth cut keys: Lube that isn't real oily helps. Ask at an auto parts place or for this a hardware store could do. Graphite and other light lubes are sold that you push into where keys go both to lube and in cold climates to also deice them if wet/frozen can be a common problem mostly exterior locks.
Wow - just wrote a ton - sorry. All this stuff throughout a car matters if it moves. Ford again. Dang glove box keyed latches another sore spot on many of this era. Even when not keyed or locked there's dinky little things that wear out or break. If you are going to own older vehicles make a habit out of routinely lubing about all the stuff that moves that you use all time and avoid a lot of this type headache,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jul 4, 2015, 4:23 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 4, 2015, 10:08 AM
Post #8 of 11
(1952 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
? Are we talking about the right thing? I dunno what OP means perhaps.
The first larger "thing" after the key shouldn't turn without key in place nor have to turn on key or it's messed up and true position to me unknown.
These all stunk as they go long term just didn't stay behaving. It that turns without key need to know just how and where,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 4, 2015, 10:13 AM
Post #9 of 11
(1949 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
I know exactly what he's talking about. That outer part of the lock that you fingers press against is fit over the end of the lock and if too much force is put on it, it will break and spin without the lock turning and that is what happened to his. It's annoying but has no bearing on the lock working or not,
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
mbeavy
New User
Aug 9, 2015, 7:21 AM
Post #10 of 11
(1853 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
ok Tom, I've replaced my ignition switch, and I got my radio to work using a wire from a different fuse to my radio cuz the correct fuse was messed up, not sending the right voltage to my radio. My real problem now is I can't get my wipers to work. I have a new motor, and I'm reading power going into the motor, when i reverse my test light I'm reading that the ground is ok. I'm lost at this point. Is there a relay I'm not aware of or something?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 10, 2015, 4:39 AM
Post #11 of 11
(1841 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Ford Taurus Electrical Mess
|
Sign In
|
|
">>I got my radio to work using a wire from a different fuse to my radio cuz the correct fuse was messed up, not sending the right voltage to my radio. My real problem now is I can't get my wipers to work.<<"
So, you've been at this for about 6 weeks, fuse that kept blowing and are supposed to if the "draw" exceeds anything to do with wiring or that item after it. Now using another fuse's circuit to power something just throws a wrench in the possible game of finding causes.
FYI - Fuses do NOT send along an amount of voltage or alter it. Relays are mostly to use smaller wire to trigger a higher draw item - saves wire and having to make any connection for anything to work not be at the button or thing small enough to be practical.
A relay is more likely to fail to send along enough amps or power than a fuse. You see power and ground at the wiper motor and it doesn't work. Wires may show that but motors frequently (not always) the body of a motor must be ground as well or it can't work.
I can't know each design for every item in every vehicle and now that you've bypassed a fuse it's impossible to guess. You really have to undo that back to an original design or plan for the circuit and find that problem not go around it with an unknown now.
You are lost and now no chance for guessing on this end by me.
Used parts are always in question. Suggestion for pick your own places is to look hard at the donor vehicle. What killed it or made it "salvage" vs fixable?
Just one bit to save you some money on fuses and common things is while at a junk yard take a ton of fuses that fit your car from one or more junked vehicles for use. Motor things you should be able to make work off of a vehicle totally to know it can work and see it work.
Spare battery power source and jumper wire bench test things. If not set up for doing that it just makes it all that much harder on you and if you want to keep this car might just do better to send this maze of a mess out to the right shop for this.
BTW - Ign. switch and key are two different things,
T
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Lukewarm Heat............
Buy Flualprazolam Powder Online Whatsapp: +1(424) 328-1086
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
