|
|
|
88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
| |
|
|
originalspy
New User
May 3, 2008, 2:50 PM
Post #1 of 8
(4867 views)
|
88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
Something is draining power from the battery when the car is off. If I don't start the car for about 4 days the battery is dead, dead, dead (I can't even pop the trunk). Once I get a jump start and recharge it everything is fine.
Here are some key points:
1. The battery is brand new. This issue eventually killed the previous battery.
2. The alternator is about 1 year old.
3. There are no visible lights on anywhere.
More backstory... I used a Voltage Meter to check the fuses and the alternator. Ran it between the -ve batt post and the -ve batt cable. The VM read about 12.5. Pulled each fuse one by one but the only one that made any difference was a 70A fuse labelled 'Battery' that made the reading drop to about 11. Is that normal?
For the alternator, I disconnected the only two wires coming into it. There was a small one on the side (near the top) that lead to the battery, and a combo plug at the back which lead to a large electronic cluster. Then I checked the battery voltage again and it was still about 12.5. Also, just in case there was something funky with the neg battery cable I also grounded the VM on the engine block instead of the -ve terminal while checking voltage and that didn't change the reading.
I have also checked for case drain, just in case, but there was none.
Hope someone can help.
|
|
| |
|
|
DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
May 4, 2008, 2:54 AM
Post #2 of 8
(4856 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
I think you might be better using an ammeter connected the way you described.
As long as there’s any form of connection or power usage, a voltmeter will show a reading.
Things like the memory’s of the different computers, clock and radio are always using some form of power.
All of these different memory’s shouldn’t add up too anymore then about .025 of an amp, at the very most.
With the ammeter connected, start over again, disconnecting anything/everything you can get too, until you see an amperage drop.
While doing this remember that if a door is open; you might be turning on things; interior/dome light for one example.
On some vehicles, you have to wait a number of minutes after turning the ignition off or closing doors for the different devices to go to sleep.
In other words, the internal timer of a control module may take up to 20 minutes to completely shut down.
So don’t be too quick to condemn something, after pulling a fuse or disconnecting a unit.
Once you find a suspicious circuit(s) that might be causing the problem; you’ll have too read up on their principles of operation.
Confirming how long they should or shouldn’t be drawing current.
It’s too bad that we can’t see electricity or current flow, like coolant or oil leaks; it would make life so much easier. LOL
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
|
|
| |
|
|
originalspy
New User
May 4, 2008, 8:32 AM
Post #3 of 8
(4851 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
Hi Dan,
I have one of those Multi-Meters and it does have a section for ~mA which I assume is for milliAmps. It has settings for 0.5, 10, 250, & 1.5V. And I'm guessing, based on your post, that I should set it to 250 mA -- .025 Amp = 25 mA, right?
Thanks for your help.
Paul.
|
|
| |
|
|
DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
May 4, 2008, 12:14 PM
Post #4 of 8
(4845 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
That'll work.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
|
|
| |
|
|
originalspy
New User
May 6, 2008, 7:20 AM
Post #5 of 8
(4834 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
Hi Dan,
I set the Multi-Meter to 250 mAmps, then disconnected the -ve battery cable and hooked the Meter between the -ve battery post and the -ve battery cable. When I closed the circuit (-ve Meter terminal to -ve battery post and +ve terminal to ground), it blew the fuse on the Meter. I replaced the fuse but it blew it again. What did I do wrong?
I don't know much about the difference between Volts and Amps, but if there is a reading of 12.5 Volts how can we measure milliAmps?
Frustrated & Confused,
Paul.
I think you might be better using an ammeter connected the way you described.
As long as there’s any form of connection or power usage, a voltmeter will show a reading.
Things like the memory’s of the different computers, clock and radio are always using some form of power.
All of these different memory’s shouldn’t add up too anymore then about .025 of an amp, at the very most.
With the ammeter connected, start over again, disconnecting anything/everything you can get too, until you see an amperage drop.
While doing this remember that if a door is open; you might be turning on things; interior/dome light for one example.
On some vehicles, you have to wait a number of minutes after turning the ignition off or closing doors for the different devices to go to sleep.
In other words, the internal timer of a control module may take up to 20 minutes to completely shut down.
So don’t be too quick to condemn something, after pulling a fuse or disconnecting a unit.
Once you find a suspicious circuit(s) that might be causing the problem; you’ll have too read up on their principles of operation.
Confirming how long they should or shouldn’t be drawing current.
It’s too bad that we can’t see electricity or current flow, like coolant or oil leaks; it would make life so much easier. LOL
Dan.
|
|
| |
|
|
DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
May 6, 2008, 10:17 AM
Post #6 of 8
(4833 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
What is the maximum amperage rating for this meter? The meter I use here at the shop is a 10 amp max.
What might be going on here is, when you make that connection, a number of modules will initially come on line and then shut down, when it/they don’t see the ignition switch on. This initial draw may be well above your meters rating thus blowing the fuse?
What I do in these cases is before I connect the ammeter; I connect a jumper wire between the battery and the battery cable terminal. Let everybody wake up and then wait for a couple of minutes for everyone to go back to sleep. I then connect the ammeter and remove the jumper wire.
If whatever is drawing on the battery is below the meters rating; the fuse should hold.
Now don’t forget that if you turn something on, like your headlights or the ignition switch, you’ll pop the fuse again.
Something else you can do and this is just to verify that the meter and the meter connections are good; is turn on the dome light or glove box light. The light should light and you’ll see the amperage draw of that light bulb on the meter. Most single filament bulbs will draw anywhere from 1 – 1.5 amps.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
|
|
| |
|
|
CosmicCostello
New User
Sep 12, 2011, 12:35 PM
Post #7 of 8
(3798 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
Did this problem ever get solved? I have had the same problem for YEARS. Batteries last about 9-12 months then start dying and needing to be trickle-charged overnight. Then the relapse time frame gets less and less over the next few months until finally no charge will be taken by the battery. When it will take a charge, that lasts about a week if I'm not driving it every day/every other day. No mechanic or dealer has ever been able to find the drain, nor was I when I tested with a voltmeter all the individual circuits. But clearly something is killing batteries on this vehicle. I just don't know what and no one seems able to pin it down.
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 12, 2011, 12:41 PM
Post #8 of 8
(3794 views)
|
|
Re: 88 Acura Legend Battery Drain
|
|
|
This thread is 3 1/2 years old. Please don't post ton old threads. If you have a question, start a new thread of your own. This one is locked now.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
