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'93 Cutlass Ciera -- Starting Problem
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Vitamink
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Dec 9, 2013, 7:22 PM
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'93 Cutlass Ciera -- Starting Problem
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Greetings, folks. I've got a 1993, Six Cylinder Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. For the past, oh, year or so, the ignition has been slightly finicky, by which I mean sometimes you'd turn the key and nothing would happen. Then you'd turn it again and the car would start right up. So, the other day, I got into my car, turned the key and...nothing. No grunt. No click. No dimming of lights. Nothing. I've recently (as in, two weeks ago) had both the battery and alternator replaced. I've tested the battery voltage, so I am ruling that out as a possibility. I put the car up on jack stands and slid under. I found the starter and starter solenoid and put a multimeter on the cranking wire to see if any current was coming through. Got nothing. Then I shorted the connection between the cranking post and the 'always on' post and the car did indeed crank (that was kinda scary). So, since the battery, starter and solenoid are good, my thinking is that it is either the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. My neighbor suspects the latter, because he says that they tend to flake out after a while. So here are my questions: First, where do I find the neutral safety switch on my car? I'd like to know the general location before I go tearing things up. Is it down by the transaxle, or inside the dash/steering column? My second question is..would it be an extraordinarily bad idea to wire up a push button switch to route 12 volts to the cranking post on the solenoid to bypass the ignition switch and neutral safety switch, to give me a 'quick fix' for getting the car running? Ideally, i want it fixed right, but given the snow and ice, I could use a quickie fix to get things rolling until I have a nicer day with which to root around under the hood. Thanks for any help and suggestions!
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 9, 2013, 7:41 PM
Post #2 of 26
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Re: '93 Cutlass Ciera -- Starting Problem
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Yes, the rigged up push button would be a very bad idea. The park/neutral switch is on top of the transmission. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Dec 10, 2013, 2:56 AM
Post #3 of 26
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Re: '93 Cutlass Ciera -- Starting Problem
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So this car is out in snow and ice - join much of the US right now. No tricks except just power trigger wire one more time, get it running and into a garage till all cleared off and you can find source problem. Tossing stuff you already did was a waste untested first and you'll go broke doing that. Car doesn't need an alternator at all to crank engine - what were you thinking? T
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Hammer Time
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Dec 10, 2013, 4:16 AM
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If I were you I would be testing power in and out of that neutral switch before changing anything. It's going to be yellow going in and purple going out. You already know the purple wire has no power at the starter so you're interested in the power coming in on the yellow wire when the key is in start position. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Dec 10, 2013, 4:17 AM)
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Vitamink
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Dec 10, 2013, 4:20 AM
Post #6 of 26
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Sounds like a smart approach to take. Will I be able to get reasonably easy access to the switch, or will I need to remove some components to get at it?
If I were you I would be testing power in and out of that neutral switch before changing anything. It's going to be yellow going in and purple going out. You already know the purple wire has no power at the starter so you're interested in the power coming in on the yellow wire when the key is in start position.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 10, 2013, 4:22 AM
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You may have to remove the air intake but it should be right on top of the transmission. Remember, it's adjustable too for position so trying wiggling the shifter around while trying to start it too. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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DanD
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Dec 10, 2013, 4:42 AM
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It's a pretty simple starting circuit and you've already told him what to check HT; but I just thought a diagram might help him understand why. Dan. Canadian "EH"
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Discretesignals
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Dec 10, 2013, 5:42 AM
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If this car has an aftermarket alarm system, you might want to check that out too. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 10, 2013, 6:31 AM
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If he just does the testing I gave him, it's going to lead there anyway. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 10, 2013, 1:59 PM
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Yes, it would but using a test light would be much easier and reliable way. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 10, 2013, 2:36 PM
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If you find nothing on that yellow wire, then you go to the ignition switch where that wire originates and test it there. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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DanD
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Dec 10, 2013, 2:38 PM
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Like HT said a test light would be the best for checking this; but use what you got. If you do not want to wait for you buddy; you could unplug the safety switch and jumper the yellow and purple wires. Make sure the car is in park foot on the brake peddle and try starting it. If it does crank you know the safety switch is bad. If it doesn't crank move to the ignition switch and the yellow wire under the dash. Dan. Canadian "EH"
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Hammer Time
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Dec 12, 2013, 3:35 AM
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Yes, you will find a harness running up the steering column. This would be a good time to look around that area for an aftermarket alarm box that may be spliced into that wire. You probably also want to check the fusible link wires at the starter to make sure the ignition switch is even receiving power. Pull on each small wire at the starter and see any of them are melted or stretch. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 13, 2013, 4:06 PM
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Looks like there should be 2 red wires coming into the switch which should both be hot. If that is the case and you did alll this testing while the key was held in "start", then you like do have a bad ignition switch. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 13, 2013, 5:01 PM
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It's really not that bad. You don't have too go inside the steering column. The switch is mounted on the top of the steering column under the dash. It's held on by two screws and slides up and down for adjustment. When you lift it off you will see the actuator rod that inserts into the bottom of the switch to operate it. It's number 43 in the picture. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Vitamink
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Dec 16, 2013, 4:47 AM
Post #22 of 26
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Well, I went ahead and installed a push-button in the dash, wired to the green accessory wire and the yellow ignition wire. So to start the car, you turn the key to "on" and push the button. Hack-y, but it got me rolling. When the weather warms up (and when I'm working less overtime -- thanks, Fed shutdown) I will want to fix it right and look at the ignition switch, but this will do for now. Thanks for all of the help and advice. I really appreciate it.
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nickwarner
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Dec 16, 2013, 10:39 AM
Post #23 of 26
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Doing the ignition switch is a pretty easy job. If you're going to have that pushbutton in there, at least put an inline fuse on it as close to the power supply as you can. If something shorts in this you will have a fire.
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nickwarner
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Dec 16, 2013, 10:58 AM
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I'd try a ten amp. Factory circuits are all fuse protected. With this not being held into a factory loom it has a chance to rub and short to ground. Thats the fire danger. You never want to have an unprotected circuit. Seen a few burned out cars because someone rigged up the wiring and didn't protect it.
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