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Air Intake and Electrical
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goldbug32
Novice
Nov 5, 2011, 6:37 AM
Post #1 of 13
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Air Intake and Electrical
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Hi. I realize I am pretty much an idiot here and should not have tried this on my own, but I'm hoping someone can lend some advice.
d
I have a 1996 Acura TL 3.2 with 155,000 miles.
A few days ago, I got a warning light on the dash and took it to Auto Zone for a reading. It said there was a problem with the air intake valve. I had this same issue about a year ago. I removed the valve, sprayed carb cleaner into the openings -- not the electrical connection -- put it back on and it was fine. That was the first time. Yesterday I attempted the same thing. It seemed fine at first, then when driving home, I basically lost all power. I had just enough to make it home. I thought I had let the valve dry long enough, but perhaps I didn't. So now I'm wondering if I've screwed up the electrical or if there is any reasonable fix. I tried the car a minute ago and it won't start.
Thank you very much for any help.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 5, 2011, 6:38 AM
Post #2 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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What is the exact code number?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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goldbug32
Novice
Nov 5, 2011, 11:49 AM
Post #3 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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the code is p0505
but again, my concern is now with what has happened after i tried cleaning the valve -- why the power has failed.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 5, 2011, 12:22 PM
Post #4 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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I suspect you messed something up with the intake snorkel or the Mass air flow sensor. It has to be air tight with no leaks or hoses left off.
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goldbug32
Novice
Nov 5, 2011, 12:29 PM
Post #5 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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Thanks for your note. My friend suggests it's the alternator, which I guess would normally make sense when you lose power like I did, right? But it seems too coincidental. You think that if I messed up something with the valve it could create problems that would cause the power to drain out like it did? And do I need to do anything besides remove or reattach to get it working again?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 5, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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I misunderstood what you were saying. When you said power, I thought you meant engine power not electrical power. I assume the starter is not cranking. Look around for cables or wires left off or loose. Try jumper cables and see if it responds to that.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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goldbug32
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Nov 5, 2011, 3:17 PM
Post #7 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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Thanks again. Sorry about not being more clear on the power thing. Anyway, I checked for loose wires but don't see anything. I took the battery out and had it charged. It was at 32 percent and was charged to 100 percent, according to Auto Zone. I replaced it in the car and tried to start it. i got nothing. I checked the cables and everything is on tight. There's no corrosion. I still didn't see any wire issues. The panel light on the door is on, but I'm not getting any other indication that the car is getting any electric power. When I try to start it, the light in the panel fades quickly. I got a kind of "click" once, but then nothing. Any thoughts? And can you think of any reason this would happen right after removing and cleaning the air intake valve?
Thank you very much for your help.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 5, 2011, 3:35 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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Removing the valve didn't cause anything. It's what you may have inadvertently touched, disturbed or left disconnected. Now you know how we feel when the customer tells us the radio always worked before we changed the headlight.
Your problem just needs to be troubleshooted systematically.
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goldbug32
Novice
Nov 5, 2011, 3:38 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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OK, thanks. Can you give me any more specifics? I won't keep bothering you after this, and truly appreciate the help, but like I said, I looked at the wiring and don't see any issues. I also don't know of anything I I touched. Is there a good way for me to do what you suggest, that is, systematically?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 5, 2011, 3:42 PM
Post #10 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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You've pretty much reached the limit of what we can do in this format. You need to start at the battery and work your way through the power supplies until you find the problem. Make sure you have checked all the fuses and fusible links good.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Nov 5, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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You might want to have the battery load tested again. They do a conductance test on it? Wouldn't be the first time AZ tested a battery and said it was good when it was actually bad. You can also use a jumper pack to see if you can get it to crank. I'd stay away from jump starting it with another vehicle, due to the possibility of a voltage spike.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Nov 5, 2011, 4:21 PM)
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Sidom
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Nov 5, 2011, 8:26 PM
Post #12 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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I would take DS's advise & have the battery restested, also pick up a terminal cleaner & clean the battery and terminals real well before reinstalling the battery. A dirty connection could cause that starting problem you are describing.
Also do as HT said & check all your fuses. If you don't have a test light, pick one of those up as well
(This post was edited by Sidom on Nov 5, 2011, 8:27 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 6, 2011, 12:05 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Re: Air Intake and Electrical
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goldbug32: Great thoughts and suggestions going on here. These guys are sharp. You are dealing with the best there is out there with the format at hand.
You said ">>When I try to start it, the light in the panel fades quickly. I got a kind of "click" once, but then nothing. Any thoughts?<<"
Since this can give you one click at starter then fade pretty much everything electrical out if I'm getting this properly that strongly suggests connection problems OR battery just doesn't have the amps and they drop off to lower than car will accept. AZ is NOT the end game for testing yet nice that they try.
Starter motor is the big draw on a battery and why they list CCA rating (CCA = cold cranking amps) which should mean how many amps (horse power or volume in electrical ) not just volts (push) - think of it as using hose the size of brake line to water a large lawn kind of thing. It has the PSI but not volume of power when used/attempted.
One way in addition to test is to watch voltage drop when starter tries ONCE then lose nothing. If voltage doesn't drop below say 9V and check that both at battery posts and from the clamps. Even by 1996 good old lead battery terminals were phased out for the band clamp at battery which isn't very long lasting IMO.
So along with Sidom's list of some things to own get a voltmeter too. As HT said you'll need to follow from battery posts themselves right along to see where power drops off.
Forget charging system on car for now as a fully charged known good battery would still start or at at least crank the engine without it working.
My bet is a connection or battery itself is really sneaky and NFG. Finding it is the whole game which I'm sure isn't very amusing right now for you,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Nov 6, 2011, 12:09 AM)
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