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Battery continues to drain
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bluegrade
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Jan 22, 2012, 11:39 AM
Post #1 of 18
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Battery continues to drain
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My son has a 93 Toyota 4-Runner. He has had the engine replaced last summer, and a new starter 3 weeks ago. Last weekend when he went out to start the rig and had no lights, no guage movement nothing. He could here a click when he turned the key. The mechanic said the battery was fine but very low. Said the 80 amp fuse continued to blow. Could not keep a charge on the battery. They jump started the rig and my son drove 4 hours home, turned the rig off and the next morning its dead. Checked the fuse and it was fine. Purchased a new battery installed it and the rig started right up. The next morning the battery is dead. The fuse has not blown since the rig has been home. Could there be a problem with the new starter? Something is pulling from the battery. Any ideas???
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Hammer Time
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Jan 22, 2012, 12:04 PM
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There is a procedure for finding a battery draw like that. You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this. First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jan 22, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Just in case....LOL Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jan 22, 2012, 12:27 PM)
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re-tired
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Jan 22, 2012, 10:51 PM
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BUT,,BUT Ah the heck with it . If it makes you happy. LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Hammer Time
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Jan 23, 2012, 4:03 AM
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Well RT, there's the right way and then there's the obsolete way, but i agree with you. The 8 tracks are better than the vinyl. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 23, 2012, 6:12 AM
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This drain is suspect by the OP to be so fast it probably would light a sealed beam headlight with the old way to check for a drain so don't rule out that simple trick on everything that comes along. Smile - Old age and Treachery (old saying now) will overcome youth and skill Tom
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Hammer Time
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Jan 23, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Yes, I would rule it out because it is not acceptable on a computer system. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 23, 2012, 1:39 PM
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OK - I'll concede you have a strong point on that front. Find those the right way and bet as it's so fast it will make it easier to find. The replacement of the starter might/probably was left hanging from wires and bet that is the area to check out. As always, not there to inspect in person, Tom
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Hammer Time
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Jan 23, 2012, 8:11 PM
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Your TOOL is obsolete (for that use anyway), but you probably already knew that..................LOL ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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re-tired
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Jan 23, 2012, 9:00 PM
Post #11 of 18
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OLD yes but it still lights up . Yes there may be new ways to do IT .But....I still prefer to do it the oldfashioned way. LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Discretesignals
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Jan 24, 2012, 7:08 PM
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How many amps does it take before the light starts to glow? Some people can look at the position of the sun and tell what time it is, but I don't know anyone that can look at a test lamp and tell how many amps it is. The one problem with using a 12 volt test lamp is that some cars have a bunch of computers in them and may draw up to 50 mA. If your lamp is glowing, you may think there is something wrong when in fact the current being used is normal. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jan 24, 2012, 7:18 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Jan 24, 2012, 7:23 PM
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In addition to that I would suspect that there is always the risk that whatever module is running could be damaged by the incandescent bulb draw. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jan 24, 2012, 7:32 PM
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I'm not sure if computer modules could be damaged, but you never know. I always kind of thought the lamp was creating a voltage drop in the circuit and may choke off enough voltage to not allow certain computers to come alive and go to sleep. They would be dead, so if you had a draw problem where a computer module never went to sleep or a computer was keeping something on, you would never know. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jan 24, 2012, 7:42 PM)
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Discretesignals
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Jan 24, 2012, 8:11 PM
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You might as well forget about checking a hybrid vehicle's HV battery for a parasitic draw with a test lamp. That's unless you have a 200 volt test lamp. LMAO Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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re-tired
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Jan 24, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Geeze DS I finally got HT calmed down about me and my slightly aged method of testing for draws. and you have egged me into mentioing it agan LOLOL CAUTION YOUNG TECHS>>>>>>>the following may distrub you and cause you to hold on tightly to your auto ranging ,shunt protected, usb ported ,cable ready meters . A regular test lamp (not snap on fuse bulb type) with a single filament bulb lights up at 45ma + - one or two...... You remove the problem with timers and keep alive memory cicuits the same way as done with ameter. . THat being said its ***time to teach the new generation the modern way*** . The moon landings are ancient history , just a day ago for me. However I think it should be demostrated (not taught) in trade schools as it helps the non electrical savy see the current flow . BTW DS you would checking ma current . Not 200v. NOW about toilet paper oil filters. LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 25, 2012, 6:39 AM
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How about when you didn't toss a battery when one or more cells went bad - you took the top off and bought just the cell that was bad, dump the electrolyte, bolt in the new cell in series of course, fill it up again, put the top back on and off you go! Not kidding Not quite that old but worked with many who were and saw that stuff. Kitty loves you all, Tom + the little hairball
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