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Fuel sending unit problem
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leogallant
User
Oct 31, 2014, 9:14 AM
Post #1 of 6
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Fuel sending unit problem
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1963 FORD Falcon / installed new tank and sending unit. Gauge shows past full and stays there at all times.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 31, 2014, 9:51 AM
Post #2 of 6
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Re: Fuel sending unit problem
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Did old one work?
1st thing I'd just unplug it and see if it reads empty - think it should. If not wire to it or dash is the problem.
Tell me as I forget, is this just one wire and a floating cork working like a dimmer switch for dash lights in a way? Could be during installation it got bent and stuck? Memory again - is this also the floor of the trunk on this? Yes - some Fords did that - the gas tank was the metal of the trunk floor! Easy to bump stuff around depending or maybe pinch the sender wire?
(edit) Watch out as I think dash gauges (all) are 6 volt so all info coming in needs to go thru a resistor to read properly. Ford quit that in model year 1969 (that late) in some at least Mustangs which may also mean Falcons or others,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 31, 2014, 9:54 AM)
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leogallant
User
Nov 3, 2014, 5:56 AM
Post #3 of 6
(2033 views)
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Re: Fuel sending unit problem
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old unit was rusty and wire was cut so I replaced with new sending unit and tank.
When I disconnect it does read empty
(This post was edited by leogallant on Nov 3, 2014, 5:58 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 3, 2014, 6:52 AM
Post #4 of 6
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Re: Fuel sending unit problem
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I know it's makes for lots of clutter but don't throw out old stuff of the sort if only for some measuring things.
Unplugged reads empty is a good sign for dash and wiring to there. Now you really should know how many gallons you put in the new tank. If you filled it and haven't used any or much up yet try to drain it down or all of it (some always remains) as a test.
I'd remove the new one if not close and compare it to old one and that float arm is free. This should give a reading if you moved it in your hands and have a sure ground to metal of sender and to body of the car.
Any way the old one could be fixed? I just don't know what you found for a new one and a quick look showed I think three different tanks possible, 2 were 16 gallon one 14 gallon and one different for it if a station wagon. There might even be another again as this was also rare but available as a "Rancharo" and guess is that tank was same as the wagon with a filler flap door on driver's side vs 2 Dr. or 4 Dr. were just below key hole for trunk w exposed cap.
I'll skip tying to post pics but means tanks had to be all different for wagon or Ranchero totally.
Just notes as there were choices and small differences will matter a little or a lot. If you found an NOS sender I would think it would work but real lower all the time and never full. Trivia is ONE gallon a fuel weighed a lot more than current fuel per gallon - not kidding but you have the opposite reaction.
Guess I'd take new one out and test and or know if it's full if it will react to lowering fuel level.
Hey - careful of course messing with gas tanks and all this. No sparks, battery negative disconnected. Remember that what you think is an empty tank is much more dangerous to explode dealing with vapors being more hazardous than liquid,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Nov 3, 2014, 6:54 AM)
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leogallant
User
Nov 3, 2014, 1:24 PM
Post #5 of 6
(2012 views)
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Re: Fuel sending unit problem
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thanks tom, I did finally get the choke problem solved on the old Ford. when I rebuilt the carb I had the gasket between the bowl and the top wrong covering a very important hole. with your help and wisdom I got it running so smooth you can barely hear it run... I will get back on the sending unit tomorrow and follow your advice...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 3, 2014, 2:28 PM
Post #6 of 6
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Re: Fuel sending unit problem
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They are actually pretty good car sport. One of my own was a 1963 w 144 C.I.D. -- tough little buzzard just too new at the time for some of your troubles.
Notes so far: Carb gaskets like paper stuff. light smear of grease on those and they don't break if you need to go back later nor split so can use most over again. If a hole is missing for some reason use a leather punch and just place it right. If wrong you should be able to seal a gasket with real Neoprene liquid electrical tape - the least possible. Top gaskets are pretty much just keeping the dirt out and really don't seal much.
Fuel Gauge issues: Generic pic if it shows..........
That one has a brass floating thing. The rod could be adjusted to get it perfect or closer. They really aren't all that accurate to my memory by exact 1/4 amounts or better. Most went over full when filled by some amount. Once some day when you can and want if you want run it out while carrying plenty of fuel so you know where it really is OUT. Used to be keep tanks full as much as possible but now I don't suggest that unless you are going to use it up.
You might really want to consider additives for ethanol canceling problems and stabilizer so it lasts longer and if you take it off road for long enough run it dry of fuel totally for an off season or use it now and then is better for most.
Already said it shares a lot with Mustangs so for some oddball things might be easier to chase parts for a Mustang.
I said before that gauges I'm near sure are 6v leftovers for much older. Just a temp or fuel possible. Bulbs are all 12v and speedo meter is all mechanical. Oil pressure light should be just a light bulb behind plastic same as probably directional indicators. Not much else there.
Do remember to grease all front end parts and know that even control arms will probably have plugs where fitting can go and should have been put in when new as they didn't come new with any fittings - dealers did all that before you sold it. If not there and you still see plugs put them in. Same as used today,
T
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