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chuxcar
User
Jan 21, 2012, 4:20 PM
Post #1 of 14
(2267 views)
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No Spark
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I have a 1995 Ford Escort LX Sedan, 1.9 liter w/ 185000mi. on it, has no spark at the plug. It cranks over at the normal speed. I've replace the coil pack (no distributor) and checked the wires. I was also told that if when I crank over the engine that the tach didn't move, that it might be the crankshaft position sensor-so I replaced that as well. It worked..... for about a week. At first the ignition would shut down for just a second going down the road, and then came right back on, the condition worsened as the ignition stayed off for longer and longer periods. After 5 days it stranded me and wouldn't start hot or cold. I've again replaced the cps with no improvement. I had the ignition module tested at Auto Zone and the machine said it was OK (Pass). Except for replacing the camshaft position sensor, I'm fresh out of ideas
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 21, 2012, 4:33 PM
Post #2 of 14
(2245 views)
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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chuxcar
User
Jan 23, 2012, 10:42 AM
Post #3 of 14
(2214 views)
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Problem solved loose connection at the coil pack. Thanks guys, your help is much appreciated 
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chuxcar
User
Feb 8, 2012, 9:35 PM
Post #4 of 14
(2159 views)
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/there is no spark at the plug. and the tach still doesn't move when i attempt to start the car.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 8, 2012, 10:46 PM
Post #5 of 14
(2157 views)
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Go back and check that connection that fixed it before,
T
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chuxcar
User
Feb 17, 2012, 10:19 PM
Post #6 of 14
(2112 views)
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I checked it, to no avail. The connectors at the coil pack and crankshaft position sensors have been cleaned and zip tied tight, still no spark at the plugs. I've checked the ignition switch at the wiring harness and there is power out of the ign switch. Where would you suggest that I check next?
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2012, 10:53 PM
Post #7 of 14
(2109 views)
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the crank sensor. You have connections that are clean but no verified signal. Put a noid light on the injector and check for pulse. No injector pulse and no spark is indicative of a crank sensor issue. Look in that direction.
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chuxcar
User
Feb 22, 2012, 1:45 PM
Post #8 of 14
(2082 views)
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What's a noid light? And how do I "put it on the Injector"?
(This post was edited by chuxcar on Feb 22, 2012, 1:46 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 22, 2012, 2:33 PM
Post #9 of 14
(2073 views)
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It plugs into the injector wire, not the injector and flashes when the engine is cranked.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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chuxcar
User
Feb 22, 2012, 9:56 PM
Post #10 of 14
(2063 views)
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So if I plug the noid light into the injector wire and there is a pulse when I crank over the engine that means that the crankshaft position sensor is connected properly and that the cps is good? And if so, where do I look from there?
(This post was edited by chuxcar on Feb 22, 2012, 10:04 PM)
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 23, 2012, 2:54 PM
Post #11 of 14
(2047 views)
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You said earlier the coil pack connectr was "zip-tied tight." Do you mean that the connector itself had to be zip-tied to hold it from coming out?
(This post was edited by nickwarner on Feb 23, 2012, 2:55 PM)
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chuxcar
User
Feb 23, 2012, 4:23 PM
Post #12 of 14
(2043 views)
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yes, the clip on the original plug had broken off. I haven't hooked up a noid light yet, but I'll post as soon as I do.
(This post was edited by chuxcar on Feb 23, 2012, 4:25 PM)
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 23, 2012, 7:16 PM
Post #13 of 14
(2036 views)
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Was this plug broken when you changed the coil packs or before that? If before, I would unplug it and look very closely with a good light to see if any corrosion is in the connector. If its green it may as well be unplugged. It'll never transfer the voltage well enough.
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chuxcar
User
Mar 1, 2012, 1:28 PM
Post #14 of 14
(2003 views)
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It was broken before I replaced the coil pack. I checked the plug and couldn't see any corrosion, green or otherwise. I also checked the wiring harness lead from the crank positioning sensor and it appears to be in OK shape.
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