|
| | |
|
|
dk100
Novice
Jan 9, 2010, 4:30 PM
Post #1 of 9
(5352 views)
|
|
Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
1965 Rambler Marlin 327 V8
My Motorola type external voltage regulator is getting so hot that the packing in the back is melting. I replaced the alternator about 1 year ago when the alternator light came on. (I suppose I should have made sure it was bad but it was old so I replaced it) After that I noticed the alternator light still glowed but not brightly. It pulsed brighter and less bright without any real pattern to it. I suppose the battery was charging because it worked this way for over a year. (not driven that much though) What I did notice was that the voltage regulator was getting hot; hot enough to melt the amber packing in the back. I took the alternator to be tested and they said it was bad and replaced for free (cool). I purchased a new regulator, installed both and am having the same symptoms: alternator light always on (not full on but fading in and out with no pattern) and the new voltage regulator is getting HOT. Any suggestions?
|
|
| |
|
|
chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Jan 9, 2010, 8:18 PM
Post #2 of 9
(5348 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
The way it is fluctuating, I might first suggest looking and cleaning all the ground wires. New alternator and regulator and still the same problem sounds like you haven't got to the real problem yet. Have you checked for a voltage draw or the charging voltage while running? Let us know.
|
|
| |
|
|
steve01832
Veteran
Jan 10, 2010, 6:04 AM
Post #3 of 9
(5346 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
Off the beaten path, could you also post some pictures of this car? I haven't seen one of these in over 20 years!! Here in New England, anything under a 1990 is pretty much in bad shape.
Steve
|
|
| |
|
|
dk100
Novice
Jan 10, 2010, 6:07 PM
Post #4 of 9
(5338 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
I did check to be sure the alternator was getting a good ground. I believe it is. The ground lead from the battery is bolted to the bottom of the alternator mounting bracket. I also tested the outer case of the alternator to different spots on the block and found continuity. Any other ground wires you suggest? What I also found was that the regulator lead also found ground, even when disconnected from alternator; even when disconnected from the regulator and even when disconnected from both; even when both battery cables disconnected with everything else disconnected. From the main wiring diagram, the only place the regulator lead goes to when disconnected from the regulator and alternator is the alternator light. The charging system diagram shows a dashed line from the regulator terminal to the alternator light and then on to the ignition switch. I could not find on the main wiring diagram how that happened. Must be somewhere in the instrument cluster. I suppose I should have removed the alternator indicator bulb and see if I lose ground. The field lead found ground when connected to the alternator but not when disconnected. Not sure if any of this tells us anything.
As far as testing voltage draw or charging voltage, I'm not really sure how to do that. Besides a dwell/tach, all I really have is a multi-meter that I used to test continuity. It does measure voltage. Can I use this to do the tests you suggest?
One other thing to consider. The fuel guage and the temp guage don't always work. Sometimes the needles start to rise and then give up and fall back down. Like a loose connection. And sometimes they peg at full. Sometimes the temp gauge works just fine but the fuel gauge fades in and out. The manual suggests that the fuel gauge has a voltage regulator that powers both the temp and fuel gauges. The fuel gauge did this before I starting having alternator/regulator issues.
Love these old cars!
Thanks.
(This post was edited by dk100 on Jan 10, 2010, 6:29 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
dk100
Novice
Jan 10, 2010, 6:18 PM
Post #5 of 9
(5335 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
Steve,
Here is a quick photo with my son. For the most part it's in pretty good shape. Another $15 grand and I suppose it could look a lot better! I'll take a few photos tomorrow.
Dave
|
|
Attachments:
|
IMG_3309.JPG
(96.2 KB)
|
|
| |
|
|
steve01832
Veteran
Jan 10, 2010, 6:30 PM
Post #6 of 9
(5323 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
dk100. Nice pic of the car.
Yes, if the meter you have can read DV volts, put it on the 20 volt scale. With the engine running, put the meter's red lead to battery positive and the black lead to battery negative. The battery voltage should be between 14.1 and 14.8 volts. If it is over 15 then the alternator is overcharging the battery.
I don't have wiring diagrams that go back that far, but, if you can tell us how many wires go to the regulator and the colors, we may be able to put the circuit together ourselves.
Steve
|
|
| |
|
|
dk100
Novice
Jan 10, 2010, 6:54 PM
Post #7 of 9
(5317 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
The car has been in California for most of its life so it is in pretty good shape.
I could scan the diagrams to pdf and upload if that helps.
In the meantime, the regulator has a three plug connector and a one plug connector. The three plugs are black, orange, and green. (ground, regulator and field). It also has a yellow lead. Interesting in that the prior motorola regulator had the yellow lead cut off. There is no place for the yellow lead to connect. I do have a ceramic "item" attached to the engine well just under the regulator that has a orange lead and a yellow lead. They both go into the wiring harness where all the other charging wires go. The diagram shows the yellow line going to the fuse box for the guages. It shows the orange line splitting off from the regulator lead and going to the indicator light. Not really sure how everything gets back to the fuse box and/or indicator light without the yellow lead. I suppose it has something to do with the ceramic piece.
I'll try the charging test tomorrow.
I do appreciate everyone's help.
Do you want to see the diagrams?
|
|
| |
|
|
chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Jan 10, 2010, 8:38 PM
Post #8 of 9
(5310 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
I KNEW it would be red! Just for s**** and giggles, and because it don't cost, Make a short wire and connect one end to a screw that holds the regulator on and the other, make a different spot to ground it. Should eliminate any question of the regulator not being grounded. Nice ride.
|
|
| |
|
|
dk100
Novice
Jan 11, 2010, 8:44 AM
Post #9 of 9
(5300 views)
|
|
Re: Regulator getting hot
|
Sign In
|
|
I've uploaded wiring diagram and some electrical system information. (sorry some of the pages are upside down) My alternator configuration is the same as the 35 amp diagram, Figure 2 with the isolation diode in Figure 6. The wiring diagram in Figure 8 is accurate except the the yellow lead from the regulator is not connected to anything and that I have that extra orange wire to ceramic item to yellow wire connection separate from the regulator connections. I suppose Figure 9 is another take on Figure 8 but I'm not sure how it all gets done, particularly since my yellow lead from the regulator is abandoned. Figure 10 shows a four pin connector. My current and prior configuration has a 3 pin connector plus a single yellow connection. The yellow wire was cut off on the original regulator years ago. I included the discussion about the instrument voltage regulator to see if the weirdness in the temperature and fuel gauges might be related to the rest of the charging issues. Not sure if it could be a symptom or a cause.
I hope I have not worn out my welcome with all this.
Dave
|
|
Attachments:
|
Main Wire Diagram.pdf
(215 KB)
|
|
|
Electrical System 1.pdf
(271 KB)
|
|
|
Electrical System 2.pdf
(288 KB)
|
|
|
Electrical System 3.pdf
(269 KB)
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
