|
|
|
Very strange electrical issue
|
|
|
| |
|
|
jervah
New User
Mar 5, 2016, 6:36 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1520 views)
|
|
Very strange electrical issue
|
Sign In
|
|
2003
Ford
Escape
3.0 L v6
143,000 Miles
Just wanted to say thanks right away to anyone who reads this and helps me out. A few months ago I started having an issue with my radio staying on when I would power off the vehicle and lock the doors. It seemed intermittent and caused me a few dead batteries. I had the vehicle in 3 different shops, and none of them could figure out what the issue was. Eventually I realized if I pressed in the cigarette lighter it would power off. Long story short eventually the radio died. Only the clock would stay on, and it got to the point where nothing came on unless I switched on the headlights, then the clock would come on. Took it to Ford, and they did not want to bother with my older vehicle, so they pulled the radio and said buy a new one from best buy. Bought a new radio, and sure enough I had no power. With a test light, I was able to verify the yellow wire/constant was at least getting some voltage. I could not get the red/power to light up at all. I checked all fuses, and decided to get a multi meter to check the voltage. Using the multi meter, I retested all the fuses aside from the rather large ones which I don't really know how to. Right before testing I remember the cigarette lighter was still pushed in, so I popped it out. I tested the yellow wire, and was getting 11.70 volts. Turned the car on, and was getting 0 on the ground. What was really odd was the red was showing 54 volts. When I shut the vehicle off, my red was still giving off 50 volts, and actually climbed to around 100. Now I pushed in the cigarette lighter, and sure enough my volts went down to around 15. To clarify the cigarette lighter does not work. I thought I may have blown a fuse around when this all started by plugging my phone charger into the cigarette slot rather than the 12v slot. Everything electrically works other than the radio, and cig lighter. This vehicle did have a viper remote start installed when I bought it, but I don't use it. So I am not opposed to getting it removed, I am only hoping to save some money as I am not very technical when it comes to cars. I guess at this point I am desperate as driving to work with no radio is rather disappointing, and really for once in my life I thought I had a decent vehicle. Now it seems I am constantly stressing about the battery being dead etc. I am not entirely sure where to go from here. Again thanks for taking the time to read this, and please let me know if you need any more information.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 6, 2016, 5:17 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1502 views)
|
|
Re: Very strange electrical issue
|
Sign In
|
|
Go easy sport with the run on sentence like that - hard to follow.
1. Real "cig" lighter frequently don't work but have power. Odd but they are terrible as "lighters" and terrible as power ports but wire to them should work or have blown a fuse if no power to center of it.
Check your test equipment. I can't think of anything that's 50V in a car?
Most likely is that this is a second aftermarket radio and never installed using proper wires or a plug that adapts radio/device to existing vehicle wiring not usually needing cig lighter for power at all, some power all the time some only when ignition is in run or acc. postion - dunno on this exact one for sure but most lighters are power all the time. Side note is to remove the lighter and install a power port in the exact spot which will fit and work better for other items. Don't use cig lighters for lighting anything cig or anything to smoke as the ashes wreck them quickly!
I think you may need to wire this back to OE for the OE plug for radio if still there with correct adaptor for the radio you now have to work thru manufacturer's wiring intentions not just piking any wire with power full time for memory and another for only when ignition is on got messed up.
If OE pigtail was just cut off I'd seek out and original new (not likely) used possible? Splice that in properly so proper item empower it thru proper fuses all should be the correct fuse as well. Tapping into power it wasn't meant for is asking for trouble and possible was blowing fuses and a higher amp one installed and harmed some wiring either a lot or a little.
If dealer didn't want to take this on a good car audio etc., device place should for you and suggest at least consulting one or use one for correct possible radio and plug adaptor,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Mar 6, 2016, 5:19 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
jervah
New User
Mar 9, 2016, 6:25 PM
Post #3 of 4
(1467 views)
|
|
Re: Very strange electrical issue
|
Sign In
|
|
Tom,
This was all OE. Right now I have no radio in the vehicle, just the factory harness. I bought an after market stereo after taking it to Ford, and they said the radio was bad. I had a harness that fit into the factory. Even without the harness for the after market radio, when I pull the cig lighter, and test with the multi meter the voltage is very high. Once I plug my cig lighter back it goes down, and at least is 0 when the vehicle is off, so I am not dealing with a dead batter constantly. The multi meter seems to be reading fine on anything else. Like my constant yellow wire is sitting at 11.70.
I think I might head to a stereo, security alarm, remote start shop, and have them take a look. I'd like to have the remote starter pulled anyway as I do not use it. Will have them look into installing a new radio for me since I am not even sure what to look for anymore.
Thanks for the help.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 10, 2016, 12:07 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1454 views)
|
|
Re: Very strange electrical issue
|
Sign In
|
|
OK - a specialty shop is a good choice. I don't believe the results of voltage you got somehow something wrong. It's a 12V system that runs in range, none of which can be 50V, DC current so how'd that show?
Some things you aren't testing use low voltage and spark for engine high - very high voltage but not testing that stuff.
Wiring somehow is probably causing a parasitic draw up to causing a problem with the battery itself over it.
Let a shop at least take a look and test your own devices equipment on even 9V household batteries you can test your testers. Learn putting two 9V batteries in series gets you 18V DC. Other batteries usually 1.5V DC. If you device is accurate those exact #s can normally be off a little not a lot like the 50V you say you may have looked at the wrong scale of an analog meter or something?
T
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
