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bbednarck
New User
Sep 27, 2008, 9:00 AM
Post #1 of 4
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testing solenoids
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I'm working on a 1994 Ford 460cc engine in a Fleetwood Southwind motorhome. I replaced the 2 deep cell 6 volt batteries and got the wires crossed and now I have no power anywhere. The batteries are charged, the wires are properly connected now, the fuses have be checked, the relays have been reset, but still no power. I would like to check the solenoids but I don't know how. Could someone advise me, please.
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Double J
Veteran
/ Moderator
Sep 27, 2008, 10:47 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Re: testing solenoids
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If you have no power anywhere,
I suspect that maybe a fusible link(s) got fried.
I dont know this specific vehicle but i assume it incorporates a Ford type starter and starter solenoid set-up.
I would look at the wiring at the starter solenoid for any fried fusible links.They may be obvious with the insulation burnt but may have fried and the insulation is intact.You can feel the insulation and tell if the wiring is fried/open internally.
Here is a generic pic...
Hope i helped
Let us know
Jim
(This post was edited by JIM N on Sep 27, 2008, 10:54 AM)
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bbednarck
New User
Sep 27, 2008, 11:48 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1451 views)
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Re: testing solenoids
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Okay, I felt the entire wire and it seems okay. Then I put my meter on both ends of the wire and it was good. I get 12 volts at the hot side but nothing seems to go to the other terminal. Thanks for replying.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 27, 2008, 2:55 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1443 views)
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Re: testing solenoids
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That's just a typical starter solonoid. When you add 12v to the little post shown does it snap to connect to empower the second larger post not showing voltage unless this is actuated. If a starter there should be voltage to the little wire when you request "start" ---- Solonoids with "flutter" if they don't get enough amps to pull plunger against a spring unseen in them to avoid sending less power than the motor would require which is bad for starter motors.
If you have 12v on one side of the item that should look something like this then it will trigger with just a jumper wire from the hot one now to the smaller one.
Sounds like you are using two six volt batteries in series to make the 12v for the system. No problem there. Also make sure each battery is charged and well. One will take out the other if failed.
Never tried it but from stone dead a battery can be charged backwards! That results in the terminals being all wrong and confusion with hooking up in series could be a problem. Have you mixed up the series of this set up? I think you are ok if you could see 12v from two six volt batteries but that stuff came to mind. I don't happen to recall a six volt solonoid but I'm about sure a solonoid intended for a 12v system wouldn't work on 6v.
Sorry if I'm messing up all the diag of this. I just happen to recall plain 6v vehicles (own one still and positive ground at that!) AND ones that when 12v became the norm used two six volts. To cause more hair loss I deal with two electric mobility devices that use two small 12v batts to make a 24v for the device. See hair clumps in my general area
T
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