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1996 Volvo 850 GLT won't start
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willienels
New User
Jan 15, 2014, 7:25 AM
Post #1 of 2
(1914 views)
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1996 Volvo 850 GLT won't start
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1996 Volvo 850 GLT will crank but won't start. Has 200,000+ miles and is on 2nd motor. This problem has occurred 3 times over a period of maybe 2 years, and I think the first occurance was with the original motor. I think it has always happened after I have had the battery terminals off for cleaning, etc., but this time it started up fine for 2 days after I cleaned the terminals. It cranks but does not fire. The other times I finally got it to fire by jumping it, but had to crank it a lot with jumper cables still on. It seemed like it would start firing on one cylinder, then two, etc. until it finally started running perfect until the next time the battery was disconnected. My theory has been that the battery is weak and it not supplying enough voltage for the electronics to work. This time the problem occurred after it sat for 2 days in zero weather and, possibly, the interior light was on during that time. The battery was dead, so I cleaned the terminals, jumped it, and it started fine for 2 days. I had the Advance Auto guy hook it up to his machine and he said the battery was good. On the third day it would crank, but no fire. It is an hour from me during the week, so my plan this weekend will be to maybe take the battery out and give it a good charge. If that doesn't work, I will revert to my previous extended cranking-while-jumping method. Do I just need to go buy a new battery? Please help.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 15, 2014, 10:08 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1892 views)
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Re: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT won't start
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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