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2003 mazda 6 starting problems
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izzy1973
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Jan 9, 2014, 10:12 AM
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2003 mazda 6 starting problems
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My son's 2003 mazda6 4 cylinder with over130,000 miles on it would not start one very cold morning. He never had problems with it starting before. I went out and tried starting for awhile to no avail. I brought the battery inside, charged it and took it to auto parts to have it checked,all ok. The car was turning over good and at times seemed like it would start but it would bog down. Then all of the sudden it was turnining over very slugish. I put the battery in my car to see if battery was dead, but battery was fine.please help any input will be greatly appreciated
(This post was edited by carjunky on Jan 16, 2014, 4:25 PM)
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kev2
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Jan 9, 2014, 12:06 PM
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Re: starting problems
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Not starting in cold weather - MAINTENANCE MAINTENANCE the systems must all be performing at optimum levels... the fuel pressure, the coolant sensors, the ignition system, and as you mentioned the battery. Cables clean tight corrosion free. I would check the plugs - they nay have fouled during the no start, other items such as fuel pressure- and all so important for computer controlled engines is the engine coolant sensor.
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DanD
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Jan 10, 2014, 10:57 AM
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Re: starting problems
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Hopefully you haven't cranked the starter motor to death; which might be the case for the sluggish turning now? If by chance on your next attempt to start the car and it's cranking somewhat normally. Get your foot planted to the floor on the accelerator peddle. The engine might be flooded due to the cold. If by chance the engine does fire; do not over rev the engine but also do not let it go to idle either. In other words play with the throttle until the engine stabilizes. If by chance this does get the engine to start: i would suggest having the oil changed ASAP. The motor oil is like saturated in gasoline. Dan. Canadian "EH"
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izzy1973
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Jan 14, 2014, 7:00 PM
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Re: starting problems
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Yeah smoked starter,replaced it but now car turns over and kinda wants to start but bogs down. My son said he took it to auto part store and they told him his o2 sensor or catalytic converter was setting off his check engine light. But it had been working up until that day it got really cold. Temps were in the -20s. I don't know what could of happened. ANY IDEAS, HELP, PLEASE.
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DanD
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Jan 15, 2014, 4:01 AM
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Re: starting problems
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Going on the assumption that the engine is severely flooded; I would get a set of spark plugs for it and attempt replacing them. If plugs become saturated in fuel they will never fire properly. Once all of the spark plugs are removed; I would fully open the throttle (foot to the floor) and crank the engine for 20 - 30 seconds. This should air out the cylinders. Install the new plugs and attempt starting the engine normally. If it doesn't fire and run or fires and stalls. Again get your foot to the floor and try again to start. If it fires do not let the engine over rev but play with the throttle until the engine stabilizes. Again this is assuming the engine is flooded and nothing else is stopping it from running. If it does start drive directly to a lube shop and have the oil changed. Dan. Canadian "EH"
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izzy1973
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Jan 16, 2014, 2:49 PM
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Re: starting problems
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Ok I replaced plugs already. Should I just clean them and try what you suggested, I shouln't have to get new ones right? A friend suggested that it might be the crank position sensor, but I don't think it would go out just because of the cold. I also tried disconnecting the fuel line from the injectors and when I crank the engine it just turns over but when I re connect it it tries to start, I don't know if that tells you anything. I'll try what you suggested and see what happens, i'll try it tomorrow after it warms up a little. Thank you very much for input, I really appreciated.
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DanD
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Jan 16, 2014, 3:12 PM
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You could try drying them (if the engine is flooded); but like I said before, sometimes a washed out spark plug will never fire correctly. Dan. Canadian "EH"
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Hammer Time
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Jan 16, 2014, 3:40 PM
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There is no way to clean them unless you have a sand blaster. The fuel soaks into the porcelain. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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izzy1973
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Jan 17, 2014, 1:05 PM
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Well just tried what you suggested, and no luck. I hate to buy more plugs and have it do the same. I removed the injector bank and they all fire at same time first then randomly for a bit, then all at same time again then random again is that normal? Auto parts said since o2 sensor was setting of check engine light, it might be a pluged converter. He suggested taking of o2 sensor,which we did but still same thing. I don't know what else to do.
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GC
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Jan 17, 2014, 7:04 PM
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Check out this thread http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...LL_NOT_START_P75655/ Based on what you have described, I would lean towards fuel issue. Confirm you have spark and injector pulse, put a fuel pressure gauge on it and post results here. Dont have data program on my home laptop so cant tell you pressure spec or what adapter needed for gauge, but can in a.m. ____________________________________________________ Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
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izzy1973
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Jan 18, 2014, 6:21 PM
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Thank you. I was just about to order crank position sensor but will hold off and check fuel pressure tomorrow. They should be able to give me the specs at auto parts store. Do you think if it was a fuel issue the plugs would be fouled every time. I have taken them off often to dry them and clean them. The same thing happens every time I was leaning towards spark or timing. But I will check fuel pressure. Thanks again to EVERYBODY.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 18, 2014, 7:53 PM
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Note on gas soaked plugs: Some will respond if they've been badly soaked to being heated up to glowing - plain propane torch. Air dry and clean isn't it. They can accept spark but it seeks ground thru the soaked porcelain. That and under compression spark will as always seek the path of least residence and under compression it wants to even more than make the desired jump of spark, T
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Hammer Time
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Jan 19, 2014, 7:53 AM
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I've used that trick before sometimes but it's tricky. There's a fine line between getting enough heat to clean it and damaging the plug. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 19, 2014, 8:19 AM
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I reserve that mostly for damn chain saw that is a total PITA to start! Got yelled at bad now ages ago by boss watching me do that instead of tossing plugs as it wasted time and plugs were cheap but it was the problem. Sure could wreck plugs doing that too especially more high tech one than a chainsaw, T
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izzy1973
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Jan 22, 2014, 1:58 PM
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Fuel pressure great, compression good, spark is good. Going to take a look at crank sensor,hopefully there something throwing it off. Otherwise I'm out of ideas, does anybody have any other ideas, ANYTHING!!!!!!
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Hammer Time
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Jan 22, 2014, 3:58 PM
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If the spark is good, there is no pint looking at the crank sensor. What about injector pulse? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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izzy1973
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Jan 25, 2014, 10:58 AM
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I took the injector bank off and cranked engine and there is fuel spraying out but I guess I don't know if that's what you mean by pulse. I did notice that the CEL blinks 8 times after about 5 seconds of having the key turned to the on position and thet"traction control off"light stays on too. Any ideas what that means?
(This post was edited by izzy1973 on Jan 25, 2014, 11:06 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Jan 25, 2014, 11:40 AM
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You have spark and you have fuel. The only thing left is compression? Are the plugs getting wet or discolored? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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izzy1973
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Jan 25, 2014, 2:42 PM
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Put compression gage on all four cylinders are from 130 to 150 psi. I told the auto parts guys what it was reading and they said that was still good compression. What do you think? And yes the spark plugs are wet and a bit on the grey side, going to put new wires and plugs in tomorrow, it's been pretty cold here, so calling it a day. Thanks for the input guys.
(This post was edited by izzy1973 on Jan 25, 2014, 2:51 PM)
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GC
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Jan 25, 2014, 2:55 PM
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Can you post fuel pressure #s? How did you check spark? Any chance at getting the code #s (not descriptions) posted? If you can access history codes too... Battery was disconnected, so might be gone now. ____________________________________________________ Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 25, 2014, 2:56 PM
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You may have spark and fuel but perhaps fuel enough to instantly douse/flood out. Check oil now and see if it smells. Injectors should deliver by a pulse and just right for whatever conditions. I believe pedal to floor they quit for clearing flooding issues. If that worked it might just blow black out tail pipe and that's the issue to chase down, T
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izzy1973
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Jan 25, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Fuel pressure around 58 or59 psi right on the money for the specs. According to auto parts guy. Tried code reader and all it came up with was throttle body codes but the auto parts said that happened when we disconnected the fuel injectors. Same thing with air filter intake sensor. Other than that just that check engine light flashing 8 times and the light for the "traction control off" light stays on while key is on position. I just replaced coil and plugs, cranked engine and now I can't hear the fuel pump. Yeah took fuel line off and no fuel WTF!!!!!!!
(This post was edited by izzy1973 on Jan 31, 2014, 4:12 PM)
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izzy1973
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Feb 5, 2014, 7:46 AM
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Took throttle body off and cleaned it. Some pressure in coolant lines going into the throttle body. Replaced throttle body and according to some online guys you can reset pcm by pressing and holding the odometer trip reset down then turning key to ON until odometer reads TEST,holding it down until it disappears. I then cranked engine and it fired right up,I moved the car and turned it off and after awhile I tried again and same thing all over again and fuel pump for some reason keeps shuting down. Sometimes I go out and try to start the car and it will be working and sometimes no, so will unhook battery and it sometimes kicks in. This is something new that just started happening.
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