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2009 Cadillac Cts Help Need a pro
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MrMitch
New User
Dec 8, 2017, 5:14 AM
Post #1 of 6
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2009 Cadillac Cts Help Need a pro
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Hello all. I am not a Mechanic but I have no choice to fix this myself and with your help as well. I was quoted 2000 to fix this. I really hope you can help me :) Vehicle: 2009 Cadillac CTS 3.6l 77000 miles. Issue started at a stoplight out of nowhere. Idle going crazy barley alive. Misfire like hell. got it home asap. Bought a code reader and got P0300 codes (multiple cylinder misfire) Went through normal steps of checking vacuum leaks and found none. Changed all plugs and coils - no fix. problem is deeper. I now rented a compression tester from autozone. Cylinder 5 = 128 PSI ------ Cylinder 6 = 0 PSI Cylinder 3 = 130 PSI ------ Cylinder 4 = 145 PSI Cylinder 1 = 132 PSI ------ Cylinder 2 = 145 PSI So no Compression on cylinder 6. :( I have found a broken valve spring in the back where cylinder 6 is. It's hard to tell in the picture but the spring is broken in the middle. Before I go further I need professional advice from you guys so I don't really mess things up. I can rent or buy the tools needed. I did try and loosen the bolts on the cams but they will not budge!!! I believe they come off in a special order but they are really on there. I can take more Pictures - please help me get back on the road.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2017, 6:24 AM
Post #2 of 6
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Re: 2009 Cadillac Cts Help Need a pro
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OMG! I see what appears like a valve spring messed up but not near a rocker arm that I could see. ZERO compression there next I would look thru spark plug hole for the zero cylinder that can see if the cylinder is all smashed, dinged up or what from chunks of metal now beyond repair IMO. I don't know who could give you the slightest guess of a cost to fix this without a lot more investigating via scope or head off for almost certain metal damage to engine not repairable but can't verify that so soon. You said you aren't a mechanic! OMG again. This high strung engine would take a ton of specialty tools, software and lots more than most non dealers would have or bother buying for one brand of vehicle so stuck with a dealer. Perhaps pre-mature but think you'll need an engine over this and the more you keep messing with it the worse, T
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 8, 2017, 6:56 AM
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I suggest you look at the service information on replacing the valve spring on this before tacking it. This is definitely skill level B stuff. There are some special tools you're going to need, such as timing chain tension retainer, air compressor and adapters to hold the valve up while you remove the retainers, and ect. Better to know what your up against. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Dec 8, 2017, 6:58 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 8, 2017, 7:18 AM
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Glad you're on this DS. I couldn't see the end of the valve from the twisted spring was thinking it already fell down inside? Can't be sure of that but if that bounced around inside is why I thought possible plain block is history. I'll stay out unless something seems more obvious to me about this. Last two sudden whole engine failures like that were 1. - a carpenter used a nail to hold a choke open that made it into a cylinder and ruined it. 2. Another used a socket extension to hold a choke open made it all the way crunches piston, kept going and busted thru side of block! Game over. Why this one happened all at once IDK, T
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MrMitch
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Dec 8, 2017, 8:28 AM
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Hi and thanks for the replys. I can see the valves through the intake ports and they look okay from my standpoint. But that does not mean much (not a mechanic) The blue thing is a dental mirror I was trying to show the broken spring from that angle. I watched a video and yes just to change that spring is a tough deal. Air compressor ect.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 8, 2017, 9:05 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Arggh - the compressed air you would do still has risks. If that valve can't seal it wouldn't stay up. You do that with that cylinder on EXACTLY TDC (top dead center) or adding air piston could go down. Learn that for this specific engine and valve type plus how retained if not just two common "keys" I call them. Reason I suspect worse is I don't see sludge or neglect oil or heat wise anything possible. If a chunk came out of valve or bits of whatever got in there is to me a reason other cylinders are involved not just one. How?: Just maybe in other work something was left that could travel over time not right away and get into cylinder. Bad luck with just one valve spring without breakage of other parts if still holding that valve doesn't make sense yet if so why other cylinders had unacceptable compression on what looks like a clean low mile engine? T (edit!) I see the mirror now take out some confusion on my part. That valve looks held in place can't see the break but still holding together I think. Still doesn't explain other cyl. being involved.
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Dec 8, 2017, 9:12 AM)
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