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89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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dlmcmurr
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Oct 12, 2008, 7:15 PM
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89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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Can anyone tell me which radiator hose goes to the thermostat on this model? I've had the head off and replaced all the hoses at that time. The new hoses look like they fit better in the reversed position relative to the old hoses, but the engine got hot on the first run. That was with the top hose to the thermostat. I did bleed the thermostat housing during refilling. I thought upper hoses always went to the thermostat and someone before me had reversed them?
Thanks,
Dave
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Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 12, 2008, 8:17 PM
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Re: 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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 Fig. 1: Thermostat replacement-Integra
***************
Make sure spring end of thermostat is towards engine. There's a lot going on right there and may take a cycle or two to settle down and purge all air out. All the hoses must be right where they belong. This looks like other hoses are part of telling this t-stat when to open and if not all correct there will be problems. When at all possible - match up old hoses to new ones and many need to be cut at one or both ends to match. Everything I could find suggests the upper hose does go from thermostat to radiator directly, T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 12, 2008, 8:18 PM)
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dlmcmurr
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Oct 13, 2008, 4:04 AM
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Re: 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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Thanks, Tom. Fortunately, the thermostat only fits in one way, with the spring into the pipe running across the back of the block to the water pump. One thing I forgot to do was open the heater valve to purge that system, too. I'll run it through one more cycle this evening. Guess there's always a chance the new thermostat is bad, but probably I just didn't get enough air out. Is that drawing available somewhere that I can read the labels?
Dave
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Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 13, 2008, 5:00 AM
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Re: 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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http://www.autozone.com/...eId=0900c15280049680
True: Most thermostats won't go in backwards but some have an "up" side to assist air purging.
Try that site for the diagram.
Heater really should be run when first testing out a cooling system after it's been drained for any reason. Most will blow strong heat when full enough and if not there's still more to go (purging) ..
In a career I haven't seen many new thermostats be totally wrong and the problem. In troublesome cases I will test them in water watching the action work on a stove.
Air is lousy at transfering heat so t-stats can be slow to react to hot air but will in time - usually late. As said some are designed with notches or tiny check valves to allow air past them (must be installed with that "UP")for better self purging but even that is slow.
Keep at it. Air still in system is most likely the trouble so far,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 13, 2008, 5:07 AM)
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dlmcmurr
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Oct 13, 2008, 7:36 AM
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Re: 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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Tom,
Your link didn't work, but it pointed me in the right direction. In the radiator section at the same site, figure 1 shows the hose routing with the lower going to the stat and the upper going to the head. I'll reverse my hoses this evening and try to bleed the system better and see where it goes from here. Hope I haven't cut the one too short!
Thanks,
Dave
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Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 13, 2008, 8:18 AM
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Re: 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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Ok: That's "AutoZone's" parts site. Some, not all when you look for a part will show how it's replaced, located or more about it. Look below when you get a picture of a thermostat for example the look for "repair guides" below that and if there's any further stuff it's hidden there - just a trick to be able to look at stuff.
If you can take pics that's even better so I/we can see just what you are dealing with.
Bleeding: If a plug up high on or near thermostat is there it's for letting air out. If not sometimes you can just remove the highest hose and fill from there and re-attach. Run engine till heater works and upper hose past thermostat is warm to hot and shut if off for a good while. It should be pushing air out to recovery reservoir and when it contracts as it cools can only draw back liquid. Can take many cycles of that to be stabil.
If heater worked before it will work now and when no heat is noted it's frequently because the actual liquid in the cooling system's engine side is still too low unseen at a glance. Understand that the thermostat when closed is not letting air thru it so it must be warm enough to open but don't let it overheat. As said - some t-stat's come with a slot or mini hole to let the air past it when cold but that's still painfully slow and with even minor junk going thru system won't work as it would plug.
Getting air out is not as quick and simple as it looks sometimes. Keep at it and look for the signs of temp stability as the idicator that it's mostly done and would finish the last tidbits of air over use so re-check your coolant level daily for a few days of use is suggested by me anyway.
Good luck - keep trying,
T
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dlmcmurr
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Nov 16, 2008, 6:47 AM
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Re: 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question
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Tom,
It always bugs me wondering how some suggestions worked out, so I thought I'd tell you how this project ended up now that it's running again and I've semi-caught up some of the other things that got behind.
This started out as project to replace a damaged exhaust valve. The last car head I had removed was in a Vega over 30 years ago, so the DOHC experience was not where I really wanted to start. It all went relatively well. As I said, I had used (obviously faulty) logic to decide the radiator hoses had originally been reversed. I put them back correctly, but things still weren't normal. Got frustrated and went to bed. On a whim, turned on the key the next morning and waited on the gauges to stabilize. Lo and behold, the temp gauge was showing normal after resting all night! Must have damaged it when I was banging the head around. Went out and bought another sending unit and that solved that problem. Once I put the proper Permatex on the head to radiator hose adapter (looks kinda like a smaller thermostat housing) and resisted the urge to tighten it all the way down, that solved another problem. Other little incidentals like the intake cam being one tooth off, a nicked O-ring on an injector (those are hard to find replacements for), etc. kept the job interesting. I enjoy reading and using web resouces to learn how things work, plus I really couldn't afford to replace my 280k+ mileage car right now. I had hoped that new valve stem seals, camshaft seals, and a valve cover gasket would make a significant difference in my oil consumption since they were all leaking, but that has not proven to be the case. Guess that means instead of $350, I should have spent 4 to 5 times that to rebuild the engine, but I was worried that even my $350 would be wasted as I would overlook (or cause) some other major problem. At least this gets it to where I can sell it in good conscience later if I want to. Plus I can buy a lot of oil for $1000.
I appreciate people like you that enjoy helping those of us that have the reasoning power and desire, but lack the practical experience to solve our problems. I try to do the same in other areas where I have knowledge.
Thanks again,
Dave
(This post was edited by dlmcmurr on Nov 16, 2008, 6:49 AM)
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