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'98 Buick Regal bad Intake Manifold Gasket
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terryhop
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Nov 11, 2009, 9:21 PM
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'98 Buick Regal bad Intake Manifold Gasket
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I have a 1998 Buick Regal GS, supercharged, with the 3.8L V6 engine and 150k. The intake manifold gasket(s) is/are bad and I'm wondering if a relative novice (myself) can realistically tackle this project with the proper tools. I also have a cracked radiator and would like to do the work myself if possible and save a good bit of money in the process. The car is obviously not of great value at this stage of the game.
Thanks for the advice
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re-tired
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Nov 12, 2009, 8:00 PM
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Re: '98 Buick Regal bad Intake Manifold Gasket
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The one variable we don't know is your mechanical abilities and how bad you REALLY want to do this . For a qualifiied tech this is a straight forward job. For a novice with the proper tools and a good manual and the ability to understand the terms and procdures it is a doable project. IMO
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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way2old
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Nov 13, 2009, 5:24 AM
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I agree with re-tired. Set aside a weekend and a 12 pack(minimum ) and have a good manual to assist you with the technical aspects. Go for it. Number and mark where the pushrods come from. Place them back in the same hole.
Being way2old is why I need help from younger minds
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Nov 13, 2009, 4:44 PM
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terryhop; The Mitchell guide calls for 3.5hrs labor, so it shouldn't be too tough. I'd recommend flushing the cooling system very thoroughly before you get started if you can do so without letting it overheat. When you are done, use normal, green, ethlyn glycol anti-freeze rather than the Dex-Cool that more than likely caused this problem.
Loren
SW Washington
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Nov 13, 2009, 5:12 PM
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LOL...I KNEW that I'd hear from someone on that.  Can you spell class action suit? I wouldn't put that stuff in my lawnmower. Oh, boy....Now I've done it!
Loren
SW Washington
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Hammer Time
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Nov 13, 2009, 5:42 PM
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Even the so called suit has nothing to do with gaskets. The gaskets are just plain bad and will fail with any coolant.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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PatrickH
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Dec 2, 2009, 1:30 PM
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Doing this project can be a real pain. Just be ready to buy a few gaskets and if you can, replace anything that may need replacing in the next couple years while you are there and have the good access.
I just attempted this project this week and these is what I decided to do while I had the car apart
Oil change, Fuel filter replaced, New rechargeable air filter, Intake manifold gasket, Rear valve cover gasket, Thermostat, Spark plugs and new wires, Coolant flush, Fuel injector O'rings, Throttle body gasket, Plenum gasket, Super Charger Fluid topped off
Front valve cover gasket was replaced by dealership with a factory recall
Be very carefully with the injectors. As you can see in this picture, the plastic washer tip type things are very hard and crack like a stale cracker.. You can NOT buy new plastic washer, you will have to buy a new injector if you break this. Or there is a injector ring of another style for another car that may be used and it seems to work for me so far. I will get into that later if anyone is interested.
You don't need to disconnect the fuel lines, just un bolt the fuel rails and use a bungee cord to hold it above the motor, then you can carefully pull out the supercharger and manifold out from underneath it, threw the left side. just remember to unplug everything as much as you can so you can raise it up enough. Don't put too much tension on the wires, just enough to raise it up out of the way.
Only disconnect what needs to be disconnected.
Intake Manifold 18ft lbs (dealership told me this)
Also you will need to drain the radiator. before replacing the intake manifold, be sure to use about a quart of oil to wash all the water down back into the oil pan. You will see the coolant and know what I'm talking about at this point.
Be sure to do a oil change before starting your car when finished.
Pictures below
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
(This post was edited by PatrickH on Dec 2, 2009, 1:40 PM)
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PatrickH
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Dec 2, 2009, 1:38 PM
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Now I have a question 
Attachment below.
The two little gasket strips you see in the picture below, the Orange with the Black tab on the side.
Which way do these go on?
The Black tab on the outside or the inside?
They will go on both ways, but only one way is correct.
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 2, 2009, 1:40 PM
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Those are not factory gaskets. They should have come with instructions. The factory gaskets don't have that difference.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 2, 2009, 3:12 PM
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Wow, I've never seen those colors on a Fel Pro gasket. From the picture it looks like the side rail might be longer on one side than the other. I suspect it will only fit good one way.
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PatrickH
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Dec 2, 2009, 5:52 PM
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Well when I was putting it on the car, the gaskets fit both ways.. That's the problem.
The way I installed seemed to me the best fit and made more sense then the other way.
So I torqued it to 18ft lb (by hand just a good tight snug) inner to outer and checked them all 3 times.
after getting my car back together I did a coolant flush, after running in my driveway for a couple hours off and on, there was no leaks. I took it for a test drive on the freeway and can smell coolant.. I pulled over and look and it was leaking and steaming from the left side.. Right side looked a little wet, but you can see coolant on the left side pretty well.. When I looked at a picture online, I seen that the black tab was on the outside, but I don't have any details on that image, so it could have still been the wrong way..
Also, since I only drove about 5 miles on these new gaskets I replaced, you think it's safe to reuse them when I tear it down again to fix this issue?
Here below is the image I found online, this is the way I installed them on my car.
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
(This post was edited by PatrickH on Dec 2, 2009, 5:56 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Dec 2, 2009, 6:21 PM
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Those are end gaskets anyway. they don't seal coolant. they seal oil from the vally and i'm sure if they didn't specify, it's probably not important. It's the side gaskets that you messed up.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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PatrickH
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Dec 2, 2009, 7:04 PM
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I just went out and started my car again to see if I can see anything this time before pulling it back into my garage.
I found the leak.. It's the hard plastic water pump elbow thing that connects into the intake manifold, that's where it's leaking from
Hopefully I can just remove the pump easier then taking off the whole top of the motor apart again. 
Not sure why it wasn't leaking while idle in my driveway last night, probably the coolant wasn't fully cycled threw the engine yet and it wasn't at a high enough level to pour out that spot?
leaked with 30 seconds this time..
I don't think I remember seeing much of a O'ring at that spot and thought that was kinda strange, but for future reference to anyone who does this job, watch for this before installing the intake back on..
Pictured below
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
(This post was edited by PatrickH on Dec 2, 2009, 7:09 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Dec 2, 2009, 7:14 PM
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You don't pull the manifold for that but you will have to remove the belt tensioner. Be sure to check for pieces still in the hole. those thing break off clean right at the O-ring and leave the piece inside.
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PatrickH
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Dec 2, 2009, 7:16 PM
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ok, thank you.
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 2, 2009, 7:24 PM
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There are a couple O-rings on the tensioner that you should change at the same time. Be carefull not to break it getting the metal part out of the block. It's an expensive tensioner.
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PatrickH
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Dec 2, 2009, 10:05 PM
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I removed the alternator, the pulley wheel and 2 15mm bolt and was able to pry it back just enough to pop out the elbow bypass deal. Might have to do a little more to get it back on since the new part will have a added inch.
The only O'rings I see are on each end of the elbow piece. And they where stuck inside along with 1/4" of plastic on each end..
I wish I noticed this before putting the manifold back on, but I guess I just wasn't expecting to find a issue like this and wasn't paying close enough attention. Lesson learned
Here's a image of what I pulled out.. Took about 10 mins
The other small broken piece is still stuck inside, just haven't took it out yet for the picture
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
(This post was edited by PatrickH on Dec 2, 2009, 10:07 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Dec 3, 2009, 3:49 AM
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Yes, the is one broken piece missing from that picture.
Once you remove the bolts that hold the tensioner on, there is one metal part of it at the bottom that slides into a hole in the block with an O-ring. That's the part I'm referring to.
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PatrickH
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Dec 3, 2009, 6:53 AM
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Do you know the size of the O'ring that will need to be replaced or a Part Number by chance?
I'm sure the dealership may be able to figure it out for me, but just encase they can't
Part number for the coolant bypass tube for local auto stores is Part Number# 47065 (or) GM part Number# 24503423
Since I found the numbers, I see now that it's a stocked part at the part stores.
When I called my local parts stores, no one could figure out what the part was I was talking about..
Doing a category search I could not find these parts either.
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
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Hammer Time
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Dec 3, 2009, 7:09 AM
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Can't help you on the O-ring. You either going to have to match it up from a set or get it from the dealer.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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PatrickH
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Dec 3, 2009, 7:10 AM
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Got back from the dealership
There is two O'rings I was sold.
One of them is larger then the other, so the one that cost more I'm assuming is the bigger one.
O'ring part numbers
Part# 25537068 = $1.50
Part# 24502846 = $3.00
Turn the bolts until you hear it snap, then it's tight.
(This post was edited by PatrickH on Dec 3, 2009, 7:02 PM)
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