|
| | |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 20, 2005, 5:14 AM
Post #1 of 14
(12488 views)
|
HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi! I have a 1995 toyota corolla XL with a 1300cc (2E) engine. The reading is 360,000 KM. I already had top overhaul twice but haven't replace piston rings. Last week the engine becomes unstable, erratic idling and almost stall and lacks power.. when I depress the gas halfway the engine didn't respond at all. I replaced the spark plugs as per manufacturers specification, the idling somehow become a bit stable. The following day it didn't start at all and found out that the igniter assembly is dead, replaced it and the power goes back but unfortunately the idling remains unstable,, i tried to replace the vacuum advancer, checked the ignition coil but still no effect. I observed that if I remove the vacuum hose on the distributor the idling becomes stable but as I put it back idling gets worst. I hope you can give me an advice on this.. Will I check the catalytic converter and remove it? th spark plugs burns powder black but no oil on it. I hope you can give me an advice on this.. I guess theres a problem on the advancer... Thank you and more power....
|
|
| |
|
DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
Sep 20, 2005, 8:11 AM
Post #2 of 14
(12470 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Sorry optimistic26 I’m not to familiar with Toyota and my repair manual doesn’t list a LX or that engine? So I can’t even check service bulletins. All I can think of is a vacuum leak maybe or the ignition timing is not set properly due to you saying if you remove the vacuum line from the advance it runs better. Not to take away from this site, but ask Venturi at the link at the bottom of this post. He seems to know the imports fairly well. Dan. Canadian "EH"
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 21, 2005, 7:53 AM
Post #3 of 14
(12444 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi! Thanks for your reply. I adjusted the timing belt one teeth and idling is better now..
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 21, 2005, 11:19 PM
Post #4 of 14
(12434 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
If that timing belt has some miles on it get it changed. You have some miles but may do well a while longer. As Dan said check out vac leaks - you could be on you second time around with many simple things like that, and check timing - also check that the dwell doesn't move too much when you rev the engine - that would indicate worn distributor bearings. Good luck - let's hear about you making it to a half million miles!--
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 22, 2005, 5:50 AM
Post #5 of 14
(12429 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi Tom, After adjusting the timing belt one teeth I guess my problem is back again. I drove it out this morning and as I step on the gas theres no response like it used to be. First I adjusted the distributor to get a good response, yes it does but the engine still has an ideling problem. Going back to my previous post I again remove the vacuum line on the distributor and idling is more stable. You mentioned that if the distributor bearing is not working properly this may have an effect. Can you please give me additional advice.. I would appreciate it very much.. Another is the temperature gauge reading. I noticed that the needle points below the normal half meter. I'm just wondering why since i've been using the car for 10 years now and the normal reading is with the needle reads half of the meter upon reaching its normal operation.Thanks..
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 22, 2005, 9:03 AM
Post #6 of 14
(12422 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
I'm not sure what you meant by your timing belt being off a tooth. If it was that isn't right - a tensioner or something is wrong there. I think this is your area of trouble. To check dist. bearings a dwell meter like you were checking points hooked up shouldn't move much more than 5 degrees when you rev the engine. Try that with the vacuum plugged off to avoid confusion. To check for vacuum leaks (be careful of fire) spray carb cleaner at intake manifold hoses - anything that's supposed to be tight. If idle changes there something wrong there. Try that - see what you find and report back, T
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 24, 2005, 9:45 AM
Post #7 of 14
(12406 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
I guess the problem isn't on the timing, I went out of town and go for 100-120kph.. As I go beyond 100kph I noticed a humming sound on the engine, I suspected that it is coming from either the tension bearing or the bearing beside it. Idling still a bit unstable and delayed acceleration unlike before it this problem started. I cant do the vacuum leak procedure you suggested. might be unsafe for me. Can I have the carb overhaul? or replace the whole distributor assembly? because I guess it wont run 120kph if it has a vacuum leak.. thanks again
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 24, 2005, 11:58 AM
Post #8 of 14
(12401 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Yes - carb can be rebuilt or replaced. Same with distributor. For vacuum leak checking you can also use brake cleaner and check but it should NOT be flammable. Use care as it's tough on painted stuff. If you try that test it for flammability in a safe place away from anything. The parts you may want are probably available here. A good local shop can rebuild your carb if you think it needs it but the rebuild kits don't include new floats - mainly just gaskets and a needle valve. The bad news is that there is a fairly high defect % for the replacements. It stinks but the rebuilder doesn't have your car to make every adjustment perfect. I found many on brand new cars when carbs where the way that needed help. There was NO fuel injection with few exceptions when I got into the car repair thing. Your noise needs to be checked out. If a pulley or bearing in them they should be without any wobble and if spun freely should be damn near silent. An alternator will make some noise as it has brushes which are just the contacts that allow it to work. You mentioned KPH which only tells me that you are probably NOT from the US. If parts are a problem let me know by clicking on my name or TEFeuilleVerte@Comcast.net As I'm sure the world knows we just got nailed by another hurricane. These areas are wicked important to the States. New Orleans I was told was the fourth largest shipping port in the world and it got messed up! If you order parts by mail I would ask where they are coming from. Delays could be nasty, Keep at it and you'll get there. T
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 25, 2005, 1:04 AM
Post #9 of 14
(12393 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi, I guess parts wouldn't be a problem for me because OEM parts are locally available here in our country (Manila, Philippines). Yes your right replacement repair kit for carb are not as accurate as the OEM carb repair kit. As of now I still have the same problem with unstable idling, I may get a spare distributor install it and test if it is were the problem is coming from. Im having second thoughts on the carb because opening it might cause another problem. Adjusting the air/fuel mixture is hard for me (any tips?). I might as well start on the distributor assembly first. I'll keep in touch.. thanks Tom... :)
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 25, 2005, 9:07 AM
Post #10 of 14
(12389 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
A quick reply - the air fuel mixture/ratio is set by float level and jets (fancy word for screw with exactly the right hole drilled thru them)! The idle mixture is just for idle and has nothing to do with part throttle or full throttle. They have been a sealed off item in the US for decades. You have to break off the seals and a special tool for the common American car carbs. It was the dumbest thing they ever did to carbs. Those needle valves that control idle mixture need to be cleaned out - espeshally when rebuilding a carb which is really just a good clean up. If where you are they didn't mandate that you'll find screws on the lowest part of the carb. Maybe just one on your car, with a spring to hold it in place. If you find that, count turns for tightening it up to closed - go easy! Then take it out and spray it thru the empty hole - re install that needle valve backing off from bottom to where you were. If you get all lost with one of those about 2.5 -3 turns out from bottom should be real close. You are making me feel old as I used to do all that blindfolded. Cars here rust out and carbs kind of went away for fuel injection in the 80s. I still drive cars from the 80s! Best part (off topic) is I can find it in a parking lot - dang everything else looks the same! Don't know your quality of good used parts but if you have a good place don't rule that out. I have a place near me that is real good at guessing at what's still good in a car and dirt cheap. Keep in touch, T
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 29, 2005, 6:09 AM
Post #11 of 14
(12365 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi Tom, I just came from a 3 days trip from the province.. Heres an update on my car.. I have my carb overhauled,, it wasn't so dirty, so I concluded that it wasn't the problem.. I also changed the rotor on the distributor and after this I noticed that I am getting the right timing now.. The unstable idling is still there... I guess theres really a problem on the valve seats because when I have it top overhalu last year the valve seats are already deep and maybe one of these 12 valves are cusing it... I went to the shop who sells Japan surplus (used) engine and I saw the toyota 4E which is the same block assembly of 2E but with on an EFI head.. I am thinking if I can replace the head alone and retain the block assembly of my car... Maybe the solution to the unstable idling is to have it top overhaul again... your advise is well appreciated.. thanks
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 29, 2005, 6:36 AM
Post #12 of 14
(12364 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
I suggest you do a good old fashioned compression test and diagnose this before you go nuts spending $$ on the engine. A vacuum gauge can be very telling of troubles too. Even some entry level books have some good info on how to do both and show the likely reason. A bouncing vacuum gauge when hooked up to intake manifold actual pressure (vacuum) is usually a valve problem for example. Good luck with it - here to help if I can, and let us know what solved your trouble - it helps us and anyone who may real all this. T
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Sep 30, 2005, 6:12 AM
Post #13 of 14
(12344 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi Tom, I guess your right.. I am scheduling the top overhaul of my engine and I'll give you an update.. Thank you very much. :)
|
|
| |
|
optimistic26
User
Oct 2, 2005, 4:56 AM
Post #14 of 14
(12307 views)
|
Re: HELP on unstable idling
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi, I just want to ask the tightening torques of the engine's cylinder head and camshaft bearing (toyota 2E)?
|
|
| |
|