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My daily driver won't start
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xtian85
New User
Nov 11, 2012, 1:48 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1438 views)
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My daily driver won't start
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Car is a 98 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 3.3L V6. Previous owner told me it was starting and then got harder and harder to start and now it doesn't start.
It cranks really fast sounds like 3-4 fast cranks and then 1-2 really slow. So far I verified car has fuel, spark, I installed a new distributor,cap, rotor, crank angle sensor, new battery, and spark plugs. No CEL's, no smoke, no leaks. I would do a compression test, but I'm trying to leave anything that requires removing plugs for last since they took me a good 3 hours to put in. This engine is terrible to work on.
I'm trying to avoid having to tear down the front of the motor to verify timing as that's what I'm scared it might be. I'm no mechanic though so I would appreciate advice.
What should I do next?
(This post was edited by xtian85 on Nov 11, 2012, 1:54 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 11, 2012, 7:23 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1378 views)
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Re: My daily driver won't start
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What is the fuel pressure?
Do you have injector pulse?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 12, 2012, 2:49 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1311 views)
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Re: My daily driver won't start
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I tried moving around the timing at the distributor to see any difference
That was a pretty dumb thing to do. Now you just created another new problem that you didn't have before.
Your methods just aren't going to cut it. If you don't have the correct tools to do this, then I suggest you pay a shop before you make it even worse.
Here is what needs to be done.
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Nov 12, 2012, 2:50 PM)
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