Stalling at Decelleration - Engine Troubleshooting


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Stalling at Decelleration

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qball1980
New User

May 3, 2008, 2:27 AM

Post #1 of 3 (1441 views)

Stalling at Decelleration	Sign In

Hi
Details:
Toyota Corolla 1978
KE55
1300cc

The problem I am experiencing is that it is stalling when I come to a stop, the car idles fine but only when coming from high revs to a stop, it basically cuts out as though starved of fuel.

What I have done:
Replaced the Fuel Pump.
Replaced the Fuel Filter.
Swapped the Carburettor with another car of same make/model.
Replaced the Resistor.
Replaced the Dizzy Cap
Replaced the Spark Plugs, and Leads including lead to coil.

I am kinda out of ideas, the car is running better but still have this problem where it cuts out.

Any ideas appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

May 3, 2008, 6:26 AM

Post #2 of 3 (1434 views)

Re: Stalling at Decelleration	Sign In

? Open book of possibilities. Vacuum leaks anywhere at the age anything is possible - lines, connection, gaskets, diaphrams of all sorts. Also - any timing gears, chain or belt must be in spec,

T

brbettge
User

May 4, 2008, 10:16 AM

Post #3 of 3 (1427 views)

Re: Stalling at Decelleration	Sign In

i'll give this a shot. Is the car an automatic transmission? if so, there will be a dashpot on the carb. that allows the idle to come down smoothly. quick decels on these old toys would let them die if the dashpot was not working. dashpot is an enclosed vacuum diaphragm with a single hose port somewhere on it and an arm that attaches to the throttle shaft on the carb. there may be more than one. to check simply pull the hose off the dashpot; stick another longer piece on it and suck on the other end of the hose. if the arm moves then the dashpot is ok. another type will have no hose and will only have a pad contacting the throttle shaft on the carb. the pad should have resistance when pushed into the dashpot and return slowly to its rest position. Also on an auto trans car the idle should be set at 850-1000 RPM whereas a straight shift should be at 500RPM. The manual may say different but these are the best settings for the car. Does the car have AC? does it work and is it on when the car comes to an idle and dies? if so then there is also a vacuum control for this that keeps the idle high when the car returns to idle. The only other thing I know that will cause this is low fuel level in the carb bowl. you will find a small glass porthole on the bowl of the carb. the correct fuel level will be creating a "centerline" across the sightglass. if you can see no liquid thru the sightglass then the fuel level may well be too low. hope this helps, rick

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