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tfoster
New User
May 11, 2019, 8:46 PM
Post #1 of 3
(1485 views)
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I HAVE A 2005 FORD F-150 W/90000 MILES.
IT RUNS GOOD FOR ABOUT 2 MILES THEN IT STALLS OUT. AT THIS TIME THERE IS A NOTICEABLE SOUND DIFFERENCE WITH THE ENGINE. IT SITS FOR ABOUT 5 MINS THEN RUNS GOOD AGAIN. A COUPLE MINS LATER IT STALLS AGAIN. IT SITS FOR 5 MINS THEN RUNS GOOD AGAIN. AND SO ON.
ALL FLUIDS ARE GOOD, BELTS ARE GOOD, AIR FILTER IS GOOD. CANT FIND ANY AIR LEAKS ANYWHERE. NO FLUIDS ON GROUND.
WAS WONDERING WHAT DIRECTION I SHOULD GO.
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.
THANK YOU T. FOSTER
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 12, 2019, 3:45 AM
Post #2 of 3
(1463 views)
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Re: TRUCK STALLING
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The end answer is you'll need a good code reading and can go from there with info in which exact drivetrain this has.
For now questions to ponder for you. Is it overheating at all in this time? Do you run this very low of fuel all the time? > That one if so is going aggravate fuel pump on anything, trucks or anything the last bit sloshing around you would stall out being out of fuel and might start again?
Do you recognize the sound or is that just the sound of very low RPMs about to stall if you can tell. Assorted warning would come on in a stall normally if for no reason or problem may mess up code readings now?
Begin there see what it has to say do know it doesn't mean what to replace rather info to work with,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 12, 2019, 4:24 AM
Post #3 of 3
(1459 views)
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Re: TRUCK STALLING
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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