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car lurching on acceleration from stop
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jthensley
New User
Aug 29, 2009, 8:10 AM
Post #1 of 2
(5105 views)
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car lurching on acceleration from stop
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I have an automatic 1999 GMC Jimmy That has been running rough especially when idling, and blowing out black smoke. I took it to a mechanic, and he could not pull any codes from the computer, and each time we replaced the computer fuse, it would blow. I found a car electrician who noticed that all the wires under my ash tray were totally fried. I paid to have him replace them, and then he got the codes from the computer. They all had to do with the signal from the o2 Sensors and lean mixture, and random misfires.
The codes read:
P0131
P0134
P0154
P0174
P0300
P1153
P0147
P0151
P0154
P1133
P1153
My plan was to just drive it like normal through Octiber until I had $600 to get it fixed. Jowever today, everytime I stop, and then start going again, the car will rev and stop, rev, and stop, rev and stop. Like the engine is lurching. One time I got fed up, and put the pedal to the medal (trying to get going through an intersection with oncoming traffic). The rpm went up 1, down 1/2, up one, down 1/2, right up to the red when the gears shifted, and it went back down (black smoke going all the way). When I have it in drive with the breaks on, and rev, it does the same thing. I guess regaurdless, the car's just going to have to make it as it is until the end of october, but can a misfire cause the car to lurch like that? It does not do it after a while, nor at high speeds, once it's past first gear. What can I do in the mean time until I get the 02 sensors fixed, and the spark plugs changed at the end of october? I'm currently using lucas fuel injector cleaner every other tank of gas. did it last night after I filled my tank, put it right in the gas (forgot to put it in before)
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Aug 29, 2009, 1:05 PM
Post #2 of 2
(5091 views)
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Re: car lurching on acceleration from stop
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Seems like on this one all I can do is give you some really good advise. As bad as its running right now, you need to stop driving it until you can fix it or come up with another plan. You are going to wind up doing serious damage to the engine and converter if you don't. You should pretend it doesn't run anymore and plan it out that way. From what you've said it sounds like it might not last until October anyway......
I'm guessing you're not doing the work yourself. If you don't have a shop you are going to take it to, when you are calling around to find one, tell them what you've told us here. What that is going to do is weed out some of the shops that aren't up to this job. The down side is the ones it weeds out are going to be the cheapest ones and there is a reason for that, they don't diagnose, they pull codes & throw parts (your problem definitely doesn't fall into this category). Don't be tempted not to tell them everything so they will take your vehicle in. What will happen is they will take it on, throw some parts at it that doesn't fix your problem and now you're out more time & money....You tell the whole story and the code pullers will run from this one, and even though it won't seem like a good idea, at the end of the day it will wind up saving you money & frustration........
I'm not there to see the vehicle to check it out but just by going off what you've posted this sounds like way more than a $600 job (and if you keep driving it, I guarantee it will be)
You should get it check out to be sure and I hate repeating myself but you really need to stop driving it until you can fix it........
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