|
|
|
1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
|
|
| |
|
|
watson316
Novice
Dec 20, 2009, 8:41 PM
Post #1 of 9
(7408 views)
|
|
1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
Hello All! How's it goin'? Good, I hope. I have a 1994 Mazda Protege that has been all kinds of trouble lately. First I noticed a crack had developed on the plastic top of my radiator, along the groove there below the cap. So I put in some stop leak as a temporary solution. It worked for awhile until my car got a little hot one day and a little 50/50 coolant-water spewed out. During this time I also had a really squeaky drivebelt. The belt had been slipping for awhile, but like an idiot I just kept putting belt dressing on it and putting off fixing it.
So anyway, I just had to keep coolant in the car because of the leak thru the crack. On my way to work about a week ago, the squeaky belt finally came off. When it did my car got really hot. Rising in temperature while I was driving. Luckily, I made it to work but when I got there I noticed the other drivebelt was on the verge of sliding off also. So I went ahead and had both of them replaced. That seemed to help keep the car cool also.
So as long as I keep the radiator and coolant reservoir full, there are no problems besides a little steam coming from the crack in my radiator. BUt I have to keep filling it up with water even though not that much leaks out thru the crack. I was even stuck in an awful traffic jam a couple of nights ago for 4 hours (There was a bad winterstorm). Not once during that entire time did my temperature gauge move up past the normal range (about halfway).
But this morning, before I left for work I topped off the radiator and reservoir and cranked the car and let it run about 20 minutes to warm up. But when I got going down the road it started running hot. I pulled over and checked the reservoir and it was about 3/4 full. I opened the radiator itself and added water to fill it up. I then made my way to work and the temp. gauge still tried to rise a little over half full.
When I left work I filled it back up and the gauge started to rise, then suddenly it the gauge went down, even floating a little below normal. After that it didn't come anywhere near going past halfway. When I got home there wasn't even any steam coming out of the crack. So what gives?
I'm figuring (I have EXTREMELY limited automotive knowledge), based on what I've read, that there is either a problem with the electrical fan, the water pump, or the termostat (just had it replaced a few months ago). Any ideas?
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 21, 2009, 3:26 AM
Post #2 of 9
(7400 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
If you haven't done it already, your real close to taking out your engine.
There is no susch thing as "mechanic in a can" and adding stop leaks will serve to do nothing but plug up your system. A cracked radiator is the fastest route to a blown engine that you can find. Nothing short of a new radiator will repair it. I also don't know what part of the country your are in but there aren/t many places that you will get away with adding water in December without it freezing.
When your temp gauge stops climbing, it's not good news. It means you have run out of coolant and it's probably too late.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
watson316
Novice
Dec 21, 2009, 9:44 AM
Post #3 of 9
(7391 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks for your response. I realize I need to get a new radiator. I'm getting it replaced ASAP. Just don't have the money right now. But could a bad fan, water pump, or thermostat have caused the radiator to crack in the first place? I'd hate to replace the radiator and it still overheat. Just need to know what else I need to have checked.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 21, 2009, 9:48 AM
Post #4 of 9
(7389 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
Hey - if you are keeping the car you need the radiator fixed or replaced with a known leak as pressure testing would be futile.
I know $ is tight for lots of folks - you'll have a lot less if engine blows over this,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Dieselrotor
User
Dec 21, 2009, 10:16 AM
Post #5 of 9
(7382 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
hey Watson, Hammer time is absolutely right. The very first thing to do is replace the radiator, "BUT" and I hate to say it. You have to know if buying a radiator for a car that may have further unseen damage is really worth it. saying that, what I mean is. Since the engine was overheated, You may want to check to see that there was no head gasket damage done before putting money into it. What that involves is- If You are comfortable with doing a simple test (witch unfortuneately will cost You a few dollars before hand "not much" but a few) that involves buying a kit that tests for carbon monoxide in the coolant, Witch will tell You if You have a head gasket letting compressed fuel through into the coolant. Witch means head gasket and worst case, coolant in the oil.
Anyway. This test is easy. When You buy the tester it looks like a big turkey baster You fill with a blue chemical and once the vehicle is up to opperating temp' With the radiator cap CAREFULLY removed or even left off during warmup(ps.if the cap is left off during warm up and You see that coolant is being continually pushed out, That may be a sign of a head gasket leak) You place the baster into the coolant neck holding it upright as You can, You squeeze the bulb on top and draw ONLY air into the tester. No coolant, only air. You are trying to get a sample of the air quality in the radiator. If the sample chemical turns yellow, you have a gasket leak. ETC.ETC. And You should at all cost always if possible use only Glycol water mix to refill, always. water just does not transfer heat as well as glycol. If You are lucky and no damage has been done,,,, You may (may) be able to (arghhh) fix You're radiator. If the problem was not caused by overpreassure in the first place. I hate to say it (hate) . but if You really can not afford to get a new radiator. You can sand down the area around the crack (last ditch effort and the area has to be dry. DRY.and prefferably room temp. ) fill the crack with (again AAARRRGGGHHH) J.B weld. I would rather resort to this than put "Clog an engine" (stop leak) into You're coolant system. You have to wonder about You're coolant pump Too? But most important You have to know if there is overpreassureing going on. A long book and I am sorry and have proabaly skipped a few things but I hope this helps.
|
|
| |
|
|
watson316
Novice
Dec 21, 2009, 10:31 AM
Post #6 of 9
(7378 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks guys for your input. I really appreciate it. I put JB Weld on the crack last night. This morning I drained the radiator and refilled it with coolant/water (50/50). Hopefully that will last until I can replace the radiator. I had put JB Weld on it a week or so ago but I don't think I put it on thick enough because it still leaked. I'll go ahead and test the head gasket too.
I drained the radiator and block a week or so ago to get the stop leak out and put in fresh coolant. When I refilled it I left the cap off while it warmed up and in the process of warming up it kept pushing coolant out until finally the coolant when down. So a bad head gasket is very possible. Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge. Take care.............
|
|
| |
|
|
watson316
Novice
Dec 21, 2009, 10:35 AM
Post #7 of 9
(7377 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
Also, even though my radiator is cracked and the temp. gauge has risen alot, it hasn't completely overheated yet. Luckily, I was able to keep it from going all the way up. So hopefully no serious damage was done other than the radiator and maybe the head gasket. But thanks again, guys.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 21, 2009, 11:10 AM
Post #8 of 9
(7369 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
I know you are in between a rock and a hard place with this. Unless dangerously hot where you are (send some here if so) two things you can do to limp and not make things worse if it already hasn't happened.
1. Cut a pie wedge out of lower rubber of radiator cap such that it won't build up pressure as it was just leaking it out anyway. That will slow a leak by itself and then you will need a new cap later.
2. Put heater on. I not dangerously hot for you when it goes cool/cold you are too low on coolant and or overheating - viola! Good warning even if gauge is within range doesn't mean something isn't going wrong. Gauge could be late if sensing air. Do check the oil. Running hot can make it use more even if it never did. If milky there's probably troubles beyond the radiator now. No sealer really can fix that and avoid that as they tend to cause more harm than good. I use it once in a while but just a tablespoon. If that doesn't do it - gotta fix it.
* Have you priced a used radiator? Better than a known cracked one and some places test them out - ask.
Good luck,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Dieselrotor
User
Dec 21, 2009, 11:10 AM
Post #9 of 9
(7367 views)
|
|
Re: 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating
|
Sign In
|
|
Yes, no problem. And do not be too downhearted by the coolant being pushed out especially after draining and refilling radiator, Getting coolant past the thermostat is usually dificult and until it opens, coolant will be dejected from block by water pump. usually fill the return hose first (labor intensive) so coolant is also on back side of thermostat.
Hope all goes well and congrads on takeing things into You're hands. Shows ambition. And while on the subject, make sure t-stat is opening, just a thought.
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
