|
|
|
2013 hyundai accent problems starting and running
|
|
|
| |
|
|
fteodosiu
New User
Nov 28, 2023, 9:35 AM
Post #1 of 2
(592 views)
|
|
2013 hyundai accent problems starting and running
|
Sign In
|
|
2013 Hyundai accent. I was at a stop light and the car just turned off. I tried starting it again and it cranks over but just refused to start. I thought maybe the fuel pump died. I ordered a new fuel pump and replaced it about 4 days later. After installing new fuel pump the car started up just fine. I drove it for two days and it just turned off again while driving it. I didn’t have time to look into at again for 4 days because of work. When I had time to look into it again I tried to just start it up and it started just fine no problems again. I drove it for 2 days and it died again. Same pattern if I let it sit for a few days it will start up again no problem. I've tried swapping the fuel pump relay with a different one when it doesn't start and it still wouldn’t start. When the car was running the fuel rail gauge pressure is about 580 psi and the car was running just fine. When it died I checked the the pressure and it was 36 psi. When I try to start it it stays at around 36 psi and car won’t start. I did notice whenever it seems like it might start that’s when the pressure starts to slowly go up and it gets about as high as 290 psi. Then the pressure starts going back down and it doesn’t start. Does this mean it’s most likely the high pressure fuel pump? What would cause it to only run ok for like 30 min and then not want to start again for a while before it runs again for like 30 min? I have replaced the fuel pump and crankshaft sensor so far. I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic right now. Any mechanics here have any tips at what could be causing this or what I should look into? Thank you, very much appreciated.
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 28, 2023, 10:01 AM
Post #2 of 2
(590 views)
|
|
Re: 2013 hyundai accent problems starting and running
|
Sign In
|
|
I have one big tip. Stop throwing parts at the problem and start doing some testing.
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
Once you have determined which one or combination of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 