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2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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swordfish71
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Jul 17, 2021, 4:06 PM
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2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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2014 Hyundai Veloster, 160k kms (100k miles) Base model, naturally aspirated, 6 speed manual transmission. Untraceable rattle, ongoing for more than a year. Between 1700 and 2000 rpm on full engine load in 2nd to 6th gears, there is a raspy rattle coming from the front end. Inaudible inside the cabin, only when windows are down. Usual suspects eliminated (heat shields, catalytic converters, flex pipe, loose components, loose wiring, loose nuts and bolts, borescope through the entire exhaust system, loose body panels, foreign objects caught between splash shields and other components). Started when I had to put my car over a frozen mound of dirt in the winter when I got cut off by an 18 wheeler. Launched the car about a foot off the ground, but the landing was not too harsh. Entire suspension components were inspected and found in proper condition (sway bar, bushings, links, tie rods inner and outer, rack and pinion, motor mounts, transmission mount, crossmember, control arms and bushings, struts and springs, strut mounts). I'm wondering if it could be related with something in the I take. I have an Injen short ram intake so noise from inside the induction side of the engine are audible outside of the car. Could the throttle body be causing a raspy rattle? Could something inside the transmission be causing the rattle? There is nothing wrong with shifting, driving or operation of the transmission and clutch. I'm aging by a year every time ai drive my car and Ihear the rattle. Help. 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
(This post was edited by swordfish71 on Jul 17, 2021, 4:23 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 17, 2021, 4:55 PM
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Re: 2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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Recheck motor mounts. A chance exhaust looks perfect but just a silly inch too close as torque on engine is maxed is has to move some most is by flex pipe concept (first pipe) when you check it's not under load like that. It's hard to safely check a standard shift, hood open, sitting still for load just quick if you try it would be burning up clutch of course not good for it. IDK, another test might find it by really wiggling tail-pipe hard just sitting there engine off? T
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swordfish71
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Jul 17, 2021, 5:08 PM
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Re: 2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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The only mount I would recheck is the transmission mount. The lower torque arm (rear engine mount) got a brand new set of bushings this year and I inspected it completely when I did the job. Upper engine mount is fine (easy access and shaken in all directions no noise). Engine torque arm now has rigid bushings, so there is less than a half inch of movement in engine balancing when loading/unloading. Exhaust pipes have more than two inches of clearance all around. You mention flex pipe - my flex pipe had the exterior mesh loose (unwelded from the flange at one end) so I removed the mesh entirely. I will replace the flex pipe soon, but could it still rattle if there is no mesh? There is one small spot (about two square inches) where there is soot on the outside of it. I don't smell or hear exhaust leak, but could it still be the source of the rattle? There is no mesh inside, it is just corrugated pipe. 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 17, 2021, 5:47 PM
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Re: 2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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Key is this ALL started when hitting froze dirt so it bent something - right. You also said just now ">Engine torque arm now has rigid bushings<" - what were they. That would only make it worse. Think: When a "transverse" engine/trans has torque on it the tilting forces are forward and back so the length of total exhaust parts if 10+ feet long an inch is trying to lift or lower the exhaust system would be a foot if not controlled. Hard part finding it is watching it under that load see where vibrating engine/trans to exhaust can make contact would raise trouble with noise. Even air intake duct work or thing just close metal to metal touching picks up direct vibrations hence assorted noise. Depending on what and where pretty annoying. You seem to have altered some things may be making it worse? This exact model may not be sold to the US under that name but this goes with the territory of transverse mounted engines to be controlled by design new. There are shop lifts that all wheels are on surface two people with car secured forcing the load (danger city) might show where looking from underneath it? Key is still it happened all at once crunched underside - what else is there too? T
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swordfish71
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Jul 17, 2021, 5:59 PM
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Re: 2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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My alterations actually had zero effect on the noise. Initially the torque arm had standard rubber bushings, and I installed urethane bushings. This changed nothing to the quality, volume or occurrence of the sound. As well, my short ram intake was installed after this incident, and it has not changed anything either. I'm at my wits end with this one. When I put my borescope in my exhaust system, the center muffler (resonator) is basically a perforated pipe running through muffler casing. Other than that corrugated pipe, is there anything else inside a resonator? Are there baffles that could have come unwelded? 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 17, 2021, 6:19 PM
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You've been at this with some serious checks and work. YES, insides of mufflers, barely ever seen are usually baffles with holes and do use spot welds in the few I see guts of. Tap on the whole thing with a rubber hammer see if it makes a lose sound? It shouldn't. Car's underside had to take quite a hit so that's not ruled out, T
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swordfish71
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Jul 18, 2021, 2:59 AM
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Re: 2014 Hyundai Veloster rattle.
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I've done the rubber mallet test. Tapped all sides and directions, no rattle. I'll keep you guys posted, after changing my flex pipe and resonator delete to see if one of those could still be the problem. 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 18, 2021, 3:29 AM
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You knew flex pipe had to go so that could be it and done. The "tap" test didn't show anything is just inconclusive not that it's known good inside. When and or if all you work and test don't find the reason time to let another check it out, in person this was essentially an accident more than usual wear outs. If it comes to that they have to know what happened and that you are aggressive with the way you drive this maxing out the forces just that will make things happen earlier. Last for now is WHY do you want to delete resonator? Is it in question or bad? If designed to be part of how this car runs from new hope you can put it back they don't waste $$ on things it doesn't need very often, T (edit in more) Resonator? The complain here is noise from probably exhaust (I'm not there) just know the very word "resonator" is mostly to reduce vibrations made by pulses of exhaust or lengths of pipe. Some (one on my own) used added weights to cancel vibrations are heavy and actually work! Most shops on the type never put those back on (fussy and more work) and they can rattle exhaust on back - those up front more. Think about what you do.........
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jul 18, 2021, 3:36 AM)
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swordfish71
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Jul 18, 2021, 6:00 AM
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Soin having the resonator removed temporarily and a straight pipe installed (will have the resonator reinstalled once I've eliminated it as the possible cause of the noise). I do drive my car rather harder than the average person, but by no means do I beat it. Both mechanics I've brought the car to, one of them twice for 30 min diagnostics and test drive, were aware of when and how the noise started and were unable to identify the origin of the noise, other than front end. 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 18, 2021, 6:47 AM
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2 others and still nothing but they heard it. It sure is being elusive. See if an alignment specialty shop, may have partial lifts with wheels on the ground/surface or another shop that has that type of lift. Now just maybe "I say brake stand it" load without moving not for too long with a standard shift! The other person under it probably nail it right away? It could be IDK top of trans or part of engine not exhaust at all? That hit on frozen dirt was harder on this than I/we think about now, T
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swordfish71
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Jul 18, 2021, 12:46 PM
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I hope I'm not breaching forum etiquette, but here is a sound clip of the rattle. It is audible when accelerating. The pulsing is because I put full load acceleration going uphill after just shifting. It's doesn't usuay pulse. Note that at the very end of the clip, what you hear are my vented and slotted brakes because I'm stopping. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ktam289a2s3wnob/rattle.m4a?dl=0 Edit : now that I think about it, the pulsing actually demonstrates how when there isn't a specific vibration frequency and strength the rattle goes away... 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
(This post was edited by swordfish71 on Jul 18, 2021, 12:54 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 18, 2021, 2:05 PM
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Link didn't work at all isn't the whole point. It need IN PERSON inspection maybe two techs? We are just spinning our wheels here now this was hit on underside there's just no telling how extensive damage was so easily unless brutally obvious and might be to another, T
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Double J
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Jul 18, 2021, 3:24 PM
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18 second recording makes it tough for us to zero in on anything. But I listened to it a few times and to me, based on what I hear, it sounds more like a Bearing noise somewhere in the driveline. I would be looking at maybe a hub bearing first. I have had other makes with bad hub bearings make similar noises. Again, basing it on what I hear in a short recording. Try getting it to speed where it sounds off and see, if by lightly jerking/turning the wheel one way and or the other makes the noise increase or lessen. Careful not to lose control. Might be a good idea to invest in a set of "Chassis Ears. "
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swordfish71
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Jul 20, 2021, 2:56 PM
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I'll have a tech come for a test drive when I get my crankshaft timing cover oil seal done soon. I doubt it's a hub bearing because there is no noise at any other time than when I am accelerating at 50-100% throttle, between 1700 and 2000 rpm. As soon as I let go of the accelerator, the noise stops, and doesn't occur above 2000 rpm. There's no noise when I turn, and when I free spin the wheel and listen closely, there seems nothing wrong with them (both front). I'm also going to inspect my brake pad clips in case it's a vibrating brake pad that only does it because of a harmonic vibration... 2014 Hyundai Veloster A few mods, and a few issues too.
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Double J
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Jul 20, 2021, 6:41 PM
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All i have to go by is the 18 second recording and info you provided. Its not much to dial in on anything. No replacement for a tech driving it or sitting in the cabin and inspecting it . i know if it was here, i would be able to tell for sure what it is.
I doubt it's a hub bearing because there is no noise at any other time than when I am accelerating at 50-100% throttle, between 1700 and 2000 rpm. As soon as I let go of the accelerator, the noise stops, and doesn't occur above 2000 rpm. There's no noise when I turn, and when I free spin the wheel and listen closely, there seems nothing wrong with them (both front). Unless I miss it before, i didn't have this information. Just tossed out an idea based on what i could hear Sounds like you're on top of this. In case you're not familiar with Chassis Ears, Look them up. Worth the investment They've never failed me. From what you describe, in the last post, it doesn't sound like a Hub Bearing But i know many a tech who could say they've had bad bearings that didn't follow the norm. No rough feel, no looseness, no noise unless under a load, yada yada yada Seen guys go down a rabbit hole because of that.
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