|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
May 26, 2007, 10:04 AM
Post #1 of 7
(1347 views)
|
Hello,
We have a 94 dodge shadow and we are getting pressure to the pedal when the car is not on, but as soon as we start the car the pedal goes soft again. We have bleed all the lines numerous times, the front ones dont get much fluid (1-2 squirts then just random drops) but the back ones seam ok.
We tried beading the master cylinder, it will squirt 1-2 times and then stop as well...
We have put all new lines on and triple checked everything for leaks.
we pumped the break for 10+ minutes trying to bleed the front brakes with no luck... 1-2 squirts then just random drops....
There are no kinks in the lines either.
Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 26, 2007, 12:11 PM
Post #2 of 7
(1342 views)
|
|
Re: Brake problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Are you closing off bleeders before you release brake pedal to bleed again? If not you'll get nowhere.
Pedal will be softer with engine on as power assist is on that's all that is.
Bench bleeding the master you must keep the tubes to the outlets under/submerged in brake fluid or you are wasting your time with that.
Master cyl is probably bad. You could bench bleed it on the car in many cases.
If you are unsure of procedures hit back or find it in a common book on brakes,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
May 26, 2007, 4:45 PM
Post #3 of 7
(1341 views)
|
|
Re: Brake problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Im unsure of what you mean by bench bleed.
But I didnt know aoubt keeping it submersed in fluid... ill try that tomorow.
Yes, we keep the pedal in when closing the bleeding screw.
and im aware it will be softer when started, but its to soft, and we have no brake.
thanks for the input!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 26, 2007, 7:06 PM
Post #4 of 7
(1339 views)
|
|
Re: Brake problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Bench Bleeding: This is what's done with a new master cylinder or one that somehow has been emptied of all its fluid to purge air out of it before moving on to bleeding the brakes. You would put it in a vice with lines in the outlets returning to the reservoir and push the shaft all the way to the bottom watching bubbles go out into the reservoir until at a minimum and then some short pushes gets some more smaller bubbles out. Then put back in car and in a nano second hook up car's brake lines and it should be ready for regular bleeding. Some cars will never bleed out properly if this isn't done first, some will. In general you only have to do this for a replacement master cylinder,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
May 26, 2007, 8:33 PM
Post #5 of 7
(1338 views)
|
|
Re: Brake problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Ok, there is lots of room to do that without removing it. When you say a nano second, do you realy mean it? because its not that easy haha. I dont want to put the line in cross threaded and ruin the threads... will it realy take in air that fast? If left in the car will keeping the pedal in help?
Thanks for all your help!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 27, 2007, 5:47 AM
Post #6 of 7
(1335 views)
|
|
Re: Brake problem
|
Sign In
|
|
When you disconnect your "bench" bleeding lines for the car's own there will be some loss of brake fluid and a bubble to remove. The speed of the switchover reduces the size of that bubble.
Now if you submerged the entire vehicle in brake fluid you could avoid that . My trick with fussy cars is to have a front and rear wheel off and ready and when hooked up just push on a caliper piston or squeeze a wheel cylinder such that the bubble goes back up into the master cylinder. Crossing threads for speed will defeat the whole objective so don't do that.
The push rod of the brake pedal will suffice left intact. The problem with doing this in the car is that some are mounted at an angle and not level,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
May 27, 2007, 12:57 PM
Post #7 of 7
(1332 views)
|
|
Re: Brake problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks for all your help, the brakes are working great now!
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
