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tjw11235
New User
Apr 15, 2013, 3:00 PM
Post #1 of 9
(2457 views)
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My truck:
2003 Ford Ranger 2.3L DOHC 5-spd 2wd 157k-miles.
My Problem:
I drove the truck ~2.5-miles from my house to the grocery store. As I was pulling in to the store's parking lot, I heard a low growling/grinding noise. At first I thought it was the transmission. Then a few moments later the motor stalled. It started right back up and I pulled in to the parking lot and turned it off. When I got out and looked underneath, there was coolant streaming out of the motor. Once I popped the hood, it looked like the coolant was coming from the front/middle of the motor (like around the water pump). There are a few hoses near where the coolant looked like it was coming from. The coolant was streaming out pretty steadily (like it was coming out of a 1/4-inch hose). I didn't notice any smoke or steam, so hopefully the motor didn't overheat. I did notice that the coolant temp gauge on the dash wasn't working (it was ready dead cold).
I had the truck towed home and I haven't tried to start it since. I might fill it up with water and try to start it after I hear from someone who knows what they are talking about.
I have noticed that the transmission has been getting hard to shift (it is a manual) and that it can sometimes be changed from first gear to neutral without using the clutch.
I would just chalk up the coolant leak to a blown hose and try to find/fix it, but this wouldn't explain the growling/grinding noise or why the motor stalled.
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 15, 2013, 3:27 PM
Post #2 of 9
(2435 views)
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No, don't start it up. You need to determine where the leak is resolve it before running it again. Pressure test the cooling system if the leak is not completely obvious. It sounds like the water pump may have let go.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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tjw11235
New User
Apr 15, 2013, 4:12 PM
Post #3 of 9
(2413 views)
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I hope it is something simple like the water pump or a blown hose, but would a bad water pump explain the grinding/growling noise I heard or the motor stalling?
I don't have a cooling system pressure tester, but I'll call my local parts store and see if I can rent/borrow one. Thanks Hammer Time for the advice.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 16, 2013, 3:08 AM
Post #4 of 9
(2375 views)
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Just my take: Wet belts can make odd noises. As HT said don't run it now. Pressure check it with the device I think is rentable.
Clean off suspect area if needed and use mirrors as needed to see exactly where the source is.
Even if it didn't smokin over heat there could still be troubles beyound the source problem,
T
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tjw11235
New User
May 4, 2013, 6:13 PM
Post #5 of 9
(2277 views)
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Thanks, guys, for the advice.
It was the water pump. It should have been obvious from the first. I got ahold of a cooling system pressure tester from a local parts store. The leak was so obvious that I didn't really need the tool, but it's good to know where to get one if I ever need it in the future.
When I got the serpentine belt off, there was ALOT of play in the pulley on the water pump. Once I got the pulley off, there were a couple of roller bearings on top of the water pump body. When I got the pump off the block, I noticed that the impeller scraped against the body and there were some metal shavings inside the block. I used a magnet to get out as much of the filings as I could and after I installed the new pump, I flushed the system well a few times. The last time I flushed it, the water came out pretty clean. I put new coolant/distilled water back in it and it seems to be running fine now. No odd noises now except for a pretty bad exhaust leak.
I'm still pretty worried about foreign objects (like a bearing) in the cooling system. What's the best way to flush the system? I just topped off the coolant, spun the water pump pulley by hand while the draincock was out of the radiator, and repeated this 'til the water came out "clean."
The odd thing is, I have pretty good hearing and I would have swore the ginding noise I heard came from underneath the truck (like around the transmission) and not underneath the hood. Guess I was mistaken.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 4, 2013, 9:07 PM
Post #6 of 9
(2272 views)
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Quote ">> Front middle of motor<<" Are you talking about the water pump by chance? They can get so bad to make noise and of course leak like that. Sometimes just a hose and coolant on a belt can make some wild noises too like something is very wrong and really isn't as bad as you might think.
OK - don't add water just yet if you can do without the truck for a while let things dry out. You may see a trail of coolant even if dry to the source of leak or pressure test it and make it leak - cold.
Trans in this should have nothing to do with coolant leaking. I take it that it just falls out of first gear and physically goes to neutral? Hard to shift too? If really falling out of gear there's a detent thing inside that holds it there if diagnosed out properly that would mean real work to fix, unknown till there all apart to know for sure how extensive. Hard shift could be clutch linkage (hydraulic) isn't really totally disengaging clutch enough. If it's been like that for a while it would strain the trans to shift and damage possible to likely.
I think this is two different issues to address. Take care of coolant leak first which I bet is the water pump with noise and leak. Can you wobble that pulley? Bet so.
Don't drive it this way it will only be a disaster till things are known for sure. Yes a water pump can just go by surprise but usually there's some warning. If not you a good shop will find it fast or should.
If doing things yourself try taking belt off if this leak is elusive and spin pump for feel,
T
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tjw11235
New User
May 7, 2013, 7:02 PM
Post #7 of 9
(2250 views)
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The truck is still running alright, but I'd really like some advice regarding how best to flush the cooling system.
The transmission doesn't fall out of gear on its own, but it can be pulled out of gear into neutral without using the clutch. There is also hard shifting at times. I haven't noticed any odd noises in the drivetrain (no whining, grinding, etc.). I'm just not sure if the above stated problems are due to a over-worn clutch pad/pressure plate/release bearing, or if it's the shift linkage, or something else.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 7, 2013, 8:07 PM
Post #8 of 9
(2244 views)
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Drain the coolant into a bucket or pan. Flush and back flush the radiator. Remove a heater hose and flush and back flush the heater core. Remove the thermostat and bolt the housing back on. Flush out the engine block. Install a new thermostat. Reconnect the hoses and fill up coolant system with 50/50 coolant concentration. Preferably use distilled water. Replace the radiator cap.
Remove the overflow tank and flush it out. Dispose of the contaminated coolant at a shop or center that collects contaminated coolant.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 8, 2013, 2:52 AM
Post #9 of 9
(2237 views)
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Quote on trans issue back a couple ">>
The transmission doesn't fall out of gear on its own, but it can be pulled out of gear into neutral without using the clutch. There is also hard shifting at times. I haven't noticed any odd noises in the drivetrain (no whining, grinding, etc.). I'm just not sure if the above stated problems are due to a over-worn clutch pad/pressure plate/release bearing, or if it's the shift linkage, or something else. <<"
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Just on the trans which would be better as a separate thread but let it be. You can pull shifter out of any gear especially easy when it is timed just right. It doesn't FALL out, makes no noise as you said so probably nothing wrong. Hard shifting can be that the clutch isn't disengaging completly more common to be a failing slave cylinder in hydraulic clutch linkage set ups. That or air in that system. Can also be an assortment of other reason but that most common.
Most reverse gears are not synchonized so a gentle test is to depress clutch fully in N - wait a bit and slowly go for reverse. If it "zips" a bit or worse a lot clutch is not fully disenged so look at it if this one can be seen easily to watch it move at trans with a helper depressing the clutch.
If it does zip or hard to shift it is hard on synchronizers so do tend to this ASAP no matter what cause is found. Rare to me but have seen gear oils give out and become the reason for sticky shifting. One of the others is clutch disc itself is not staying true and or some flaws that make it drag a bit even when fully depressed,
T
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