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GA_Boy
New User
Dec 10, 2010, 1:20 PM
Post #1 of 6
(1813 views)
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Hi, First time poster.
2003 Cadillac Deville, V8, 60K miles
Front wheel drive 4 dr. sedan
Shimmed a little when braking. I had a new set of tires installed and a complete alignment. All sterring compnonets, linkage, etc. were fine.
That didn't help the shimmy so I figure front rotors need replacing. Brake pads are 80%.
Question: Is this something I can do at home? Any special tools needed? I am very mechanically inclined but have never done this on a later model. I understand that the rotors are seperate from the Hub so ne need to fool with bearings.
Thanks, Marvin
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 10, 2010, 2:18 PM
Post #2 of 6
(1811 views)
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Anything is doable but will depend on your tools available and basic know how. Remember that new rotor will naturally be thicker than the old ones so you need to know how to retract the piston of the caliper for clearance for new OR if those rotors have enough meat on them have those turned to true again and you won't have to mess with pushing back the caliper piston.
Many cars and dunno for sure on this will hold caliper with bracket that will need to be removed to remove the rotor.
Lube pins the slide with proper brake lube and areas that slide sparingly so it can't get on friction surfaces. Also - either way you really should replace the pads with new as they are already worn to match the old rotors and won't match perfectly on either machined or new rotors.
Are you up for this?
T
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GA_Boy
New User
Dec 10, 2010, 3:00 PM
Post #3 of 6
(1806 views)
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Thanks Tom, I will install new shoes also with the new rotors---thanks for the reminder. In the past on other cars I've used the old pad and a "C" clamp to push the plunger back in. I wasn't sure if this would work on the Caddy. I guess they still give the little tube of anti-squeel stuff for the back side of the pads.
Marvin
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 10, 2010, 3:09 PM
Post #4 of 6
(1805 views)
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This car no doubt has anti-lock brakes and all the EXPENSIVE parts (hydraulic) that go with it. It's best to VERY carefully push piston back only as far as needed slowly using the bleeder carefully such that NO air can get in! That way you are not pushing old fluid back thru the system. You should be able to do this with a clear tube into some new (submerged) brake fluid into a clean clear jar but again only go back as far as is needed to clear new pads. Also - don't push brake pedal to floor to set pads but rather just go part way till you feel a good pedal again.
Used to do it all the time but no longer plain push them back. That and while there would bleed them too which you may need a special procedure to do that I don't have software for so be warned,
T
(edit to fix typo)
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Dec 10, 2010, 3:10 PM)
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GA_Boy
New User
Dec 10, 2010, 3:41 PM
Post #5 of 6
(1800 views)
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Tom, You have brought up some very good points that this old man didn't think of or even know. I guess I'll just keep working on my '67 VW Baja and let a real Mechanic work on the Caddy. My shade tree ain't big enough for this one. LOL
Thanks again, Marvin
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 10, 2010, 4:34 PM
Post #6 of 6
(1797 views)
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Agree - when in doubt let the pros do it. Amazing that something that really is essentially basic can cause problem you don't want.
Good luck,
T
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