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Dtr146
New User
Aug 26, 2020, 10:20 PM
Post #1 of 8
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Help chasing a problem
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2005 Ford Taurus 3.0l 170kish
I've been working on a few problems with this car and it seems to just takin a nose dive. My car constantly dies when I'm at a stop. This can be in a parking lot, stop light, or anytime I stop. no matter if it's in reverse drive or neutral. I've had it do it in park as well but it doesn't seem to want to do it unless the engine's warm when I'm driving it doesn't really matter I could be driving on a cold engine and The only difference is it won't serve as much before it dies. The surging seems to be random as well. Most stops the RPMs just fall then it dies. The RPMs tend to be really low and there is some fluctuation but they're always has been. That's one of the original problems I was chasing was the RPM's slight idle fluctuation. I have a voltage code on bank 2 sensor 1. I have bank 1 sensor 1 that has stuck lean and stuck rich codes. Bank 2 sensor 1 also throws a stuck rich. The nose dive I referring to is now I'm losing power. The acceleration is spotty with sometimes it works okay other times it seems like I have to give it more umph. I'll be driving and randomly no response from the gas pedal and the RPMs are stuck at like 200 with the engine sputtering. I don't know too much about cars and I'm at my wits end. all I'm basically looking for is your best opinions and what you guys would do to start trying to diagnose the problem.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 27, 2020, 3:55 AM
Post #2 of 8
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Re: Help chasing a problem
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? Did you just acquire this car? RPM of 200 is unrealistic IDK much of anything that would stay running that low, stall speed is probably 400 or so for most.
That alone has to be found first would be checking for all sorts of vacuum leaks* and air intake parts integrity. Hmmm on the 170k on this the care all along buys you those miles so check just what you see for hopeless sludge.
* AYOR checking with common things like spray water, carb/intake cleaner or brake cleaner (read each brand if flammable or not) could/should react when if you find a spot. Reason for warning is cleaners, sprays can cause a fire, ruin paint, water if tried too cold on something hot and crack it and so on.
Visuals for any and all lines holding vacuum include the brakes and line to booster plug off rather not pinch those or toss those hoses and check valve.
A lot of how it runs is sensing air speed thru intake and "intake manifold actual pressure (is vacuum but how much) " tells of load on engine.
Later if you don't find anything there are some feeble attempts you can make for exhaust restrictions can be difficult and rigged up to know actual reading and the tools to read things.
It's that or send this out at least for a diagnosis with lots of detailed info then decide what you wish to take on and what you don't even have tools for to do,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Aug 27, 2020, 3:58 AM)
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Dtr146
New User
Aug 27, 2020, 5:14 AM
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Re: Help chasing a problem
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I've had this car for a while and the 200 RPM is right before it dies sometimes it just falls straight down and dies other times it'll hover around 200 and then die but when the engine is sputtering is normally when it's around 200. It'll be a complete loss of power and no response from the gas pedal. But who knows It might be 400. Regardless I can always learn on how to diagnose so any recommendations are helpful. I don't know what you mean by spraying water or carb cleaner. If you're referring to the air intake I've cleaned that already.
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Dtr146
New User
Aug 27, 2020, 5:17 AM
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Re: Help chasing a problem
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I have bank 1 sensor 1 that has stuck lean and stuck rich codes. Bank 2 sensor 1 also throws a stuck rich. That is a bad sign. That usually happens when the system is running so rich that the 0/2 sensors read rich until they get totally clogged up and then read lean. In reality the system is still rich but the sensors have been ruined. At this point you will probably have to replace the sensors and clear the codes. Now you can watch the adaptives and determine just how rich it really is and why.
What would cause that to happen?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2020, 5:26 AM
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Lots of things but you have to replace the sensors to confirm the issue first. They will also help in knowing if you are correcting the problem or not.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2020, 5:38 AM
Post #8 of 8
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Of course it will run lousy, stumble and stall at 200 even more. Alone that means nothing. It's what caused the problems in the 1st place or a fix or part would probably just do it again.
Vacuum leaks are testing for anywhere "intake manifold" vacuum should be present or sealed from leaking is any hose, gasket part that seals it. If you don't recognize which items are sealing vacuum IDK how to help you.
Hammer suggested that O/2 sensors are toast now I was thinking WHY not if they are good or not they aren't by now. There's also damage to converter probably too late so mentioned now exhaust restriction just go thru a list to knock off the things that can cause things to fail and check what was damaged if any.
What does anything? Hard to say, age, miles, lack of maintenance, broken parts from mishandling, OVERHEATING high on the list.
Those would be some top reasons things just don't last forever caught in time and fixed is great understood not all is known early enough.
Sorry but I'm not sure what equipment or tools you have to use and know how so suggested a diagnosis from a pro stop with that and decide if YOU want to do stuff or know what it's situation is best that can be known and choose a plan to fix it or if bad enough bail out now?
Hammer will be by see what he says I say send it out for a diagnosis there's so much chances are you don't have equipment to get some results. DO NOT RESET the codes yet that would just add to guessing now without some info in there,
T
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