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is this a bad wheel bearing?
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 17, 2008, 6:14 AM
Post #1 of 13
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is this a bad wheel bearing?
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2002 nissan sentra SE-R Spec V 67,000 miles
im starting to think i need wheel bearings. for some time now ive been hearing a rolling noise when coming to a stop. for a while i sucked it up to road/tire noise due to the low profile tires.
recently i can hear a metal to metal scrapping noise coming from my front passenger wheel while driving and turning to the right only. braking or not doesnt make a difference in the sound.
turning to the left is quiet.
brakes are relatively new and look in good shape,
tires have nice even tread wear.
tire pressure is good.
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 17, 2008, 6:42 AM
Post #2 of 13
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Re: is this a bad wheel bearing?
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Double check the brake - even take it apart to look for marks of it rubbing with some hardware or something. Metal to metal scraping noise is possible with brake or bearing but more likely brake. With brake retracted you should be able to feel something with the bearing when hoisted off ground. Noise is usually on the side you think it's coming from. Sometimes a bearing goan/growl when turning can be the opposite side from what you would think while driving it so check and compare both sides.
IMO - a bearing failure on one side does NOT mean both are bad or need replacing,
T
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 17, 2008, 7:02 AM
Post #3 of 13
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Re: is this a bad wheel bearing?
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to be honest, it sorta sounds like a brake noise. almost like the splash shield was rubbing the rotor. i didnt disassemble the brake, but i visually inspected the pads and the splash shield was fine. the thing that was weird was that braking is quiet and cruising straight ahead or turning left is quiet as well.
now if i jack up the car to wiggle the wheel to check for play. wouldnt new tight ball joints mask any slack in the bearing?
guide me if im wrong her but front end check involves
tie rod ends- with car on ground, lightly wiggle steering wheel and watch TRE for movement
ball joints/bearings- car suspended in air, grab wheel at 12 and 6 and push pull. have partner watch for movement.
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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 17, 2008, 7:13 AM
Post #4 of 13
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Re: is this a bad wheel bearing?
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Not sure of the layout of this front end. Probably uses a bearing hub instead of "inner-outer" bearings so it's one bearing and no freeplay is allowed. Bad bearings frequently don't show up as freeplay but sure can on their last legs!
Checking front end parts is like you said for the most part. Supporting wheel by lower control arms in most set ups reveals the lower ball joint's condition. You need to look for where forces are as if under a force freeplay won't be noted. TREs are eyeballed for motion. Nothing for freeplay is really allowed if found.
If you dismantle brake you may see the metal to metal shiny spot(s) where something is wrong. A tiny spot can make quite a ruckus. Even if new or good looking check the hardware, pads, anti-rattle stuff and the like for anything out of order,
T
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 17, 2008, 7:59 AM
Post #5 of 13
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Re: is this a bad wheel bearing?
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yea i believe the bearing is the entire hub assembly. ill try double checking the suspension and disassembling the brakes my next days off.
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 18, 2008, 5:14 AM
Post #6 of 13
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Re: is this a bad wheel bearing?
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just an update,
i pulled the wheel and brakes apart on the suspected wheel today and found that one of the caliper anchor slide pins was completely seized into the caliper mounting bracket thus cocking the caliper assembly.
what i think was happening was that since the caliper was cockeyed the metal brake pad slides were shifted agaings the rotor making the noise.
i was unable to remove the anchor pin from the bracket so once i get the parts and rebuild ill post another update
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2008, 7:10 AM
Post #7 of 13
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Seized caliper pins/slides
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dmac - They should have complete calipers with the bracket for this. If you destroy the old bracket you'll pay a "core" charge for that so try to just take the whole mess off as a unit and consider BOTH sides.
When these type slides used in many applications get water/dirt past the seals they really do get as stuck as welded sometimes. Put it on your periodic maint list to just pull calipers and lube them up with real brake grease (usually a silicone) which is remarkably water resistant.
Note for readers: This is a common problem a few months AFTER a vehicle is driven thru deeper water than prudent which IMO is no higher than just below the center of the hub no matter what type vehicle it is. It can happen anyway but note that they call seals around vehicles "DUST" seals as most aren't WATERPROOF as folks think,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 18, 2008, 7:11 AM)
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 23, 2008, 4:33 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Tom like you said, they only sold it as the whole caliper assembly.
so that said i replaced the whole caliper assembly on the suspected side. bled the brakes...and went for a spin.........you guessed it.....
THE NOISE IS STILL THERE!!!
i cant really be angry since the caliper assembly needed to be replaced anyways. but i have to admit a few curse words did escape when i heard the noise again.
any ideas?
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 23, 2008, 7:21 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Seems like that caliper had to go anyway as you said. It may still have a bearing problem at that wheel or the other side?? You saw the brake wear - bearing may or may not show play or a funny feeling without a load on it till it's wicked bad.
Is it the exact same noise? New pads on old rotor might contact in slightly different spot and make a feel more than noise but possible. If it has an outer rust ring they cause issues with pad only replacements.
Do remember one side can make noise and sound exactly like it's from the other side and fool you. Anything else there that can rub? Dust shield - bad anti-rattle stuff?
T
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 24, 2008, 6:22 AM
Post #10 of 13
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yea its the exact same noise as before.
the caliper assembly didnt come with pads just the hardware. so they are the same pads/rotor as before. the pads are still like new and there is only a very minor rust ring on the rotor. the brakes were done not too long ago.
i cant replicate the noise with the car jacked up and spinning the wheel by hand. it seems to only do it when its loaded on the ground.
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 24, 2008, 8:07 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Back to first post "noise turning right - braking or not" so now that brake is not the issue that still leaves bearing(s) and may be that side or not. Just spinning them may not show up the problem and may need the weight of vehicle on it to make that noise.
The wear on the pads while caliper was known frozen does still concern me even if newer but I wouldn't expect the exact same noise with that fixed?? Bearing in question. May show filing dust inside or not??
T
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Oct 24, 2008, 8:51 AM
Post #12 of 13
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yea i dont even know why i didnt take the drivers side wheel off to take a look. i guess because i was so set on it being the pass side. ill pop the wheel off the other side and see.
the wear on the pad is minimal otherwise i would have done a brake job just enough to put the pieces of the puzzle together. pad still had an even matting surface to the rotor.
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 24, 2008, 9:31 AM
Post #13 of 13
(3663 views)
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Yes - certainly check and also lube up other side so it doesn't happen there with the pin also - later - it's preventable.
The bearing check. Try to just nudge brake pads such that they aren't touching at all and with wheel back on turn/spin them with just the speed you can hang on torqueing them and try to feel any flaw. They should be glassy, silent smooth - no exceptions and without some load may not show. Got one coming in a couple hours right here that won't express itself well sitting still but does driving. Usually when off and in hand you can feel something. Of course when they are really trashed there's no doubt.
The pads may have had a slight bevel and when cocked and working put a sharp leading edge (?) on the pad which could pull a "finger nail on chaukboard" type sound now which I would think would go away. Turning rotors or replacing them takes all that out of course and I know you aren't doing all that for this job.
I don't know what the anti-rattle hardware looks like without seeing it myself but look to see if it's all in proper postion and not touching also. Also make sure the wear sensor if used is in proper position. I've seen them bent and touch when not worn pads!
Good luck,
T
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