Main IndexAuto Repair Home Search Posts SEARCH
POSTS
Who's Online WHO'S
ONLINE
Log in LOG
IN









pass key-II


Search for (search options)
 



oldsmess
Anonymous Poster
macklooney74@yahoo.com

Nov 9, 2006, 10:58 PM

Post #1 of 6 (4326 views)
post icon pass key-II Sign In

Hi my problem is very frustrating.I have a 1993 old regency ninety eight,and all of a sudden the security light stays on at first it was drivable but now it will not even start up,ive tried cleaning the chip on the key,and just inside the switch the two contact plates for the key,we had put the cables on the battery so it wouldnt die even after 10 minutes the car still will not start and the battery is diing and we just put a new battery in it,what is my solution?please help.


steve01832
Veteran
steve01832 profile image

Nov 10, 2006, 3:44 AM

Post #2 of 6 (4323 views)
Re: pass key-II Sign In

Is the car a no crank condition or is it a cranks over no start condition?

Steve


Ilovericeandmuscle
Anonymous Poster

Nov 10, 2006, 4:32 AM

Post #3 of 6 (4321 views)
Re: pass key-II Sign In

Well you might have a short that needs attention,but honestly I've removed countless gm security systems and installed aftermarket security,gm security of that year is not secure and isn't a required component.Does the security light blink or stay on?As long as there isn't a starter disabler equipped you can remove the fuse to the system (if it's not a shared power source) if it is a multi source fuse,remove the light from the bezel to kill the drain (provided there isn't a short to fix but just a bad security module) and install a decoy LED,trust me that little red flashing light offers more security than GM's security back then.Most decoy LED's retail @ $2.50.

Jim


ilovericeandmuscle
Anonymous Poster

Nov 10, 2006, 4:48 AM

Post #4 of 6 (4320 views)
Re: pass key-II Sign In

Sorry forgot to mention:your vehicle requires a decoy diode to bypass the key chip,the values for the diode and the diode itself can be purchased from any (friendly) remote starter installer/distributor for around $3.00,it is required to “trick” the ECU into thinking the key is in the ignition. These modules will only send the coded signal to the ECU when instructed to do so by the alarm or remote start. common resistors that mimic the same resistance of your GM key’s VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) chip.You'll have to locate a wire to install this diode to (usually a small flat yellow wire cover with 2 small (18ga) white wires inside) PLEASE be careful not to cut or damage the larger yellow airbag wires under the steering coloumn and dashboard also, the bypass wires can be found from the key ignition cylinder.Affecting the airbag wires can result in deployment even with the car off.When you find the 2 white wires,cut them both (they will be paralell to each other) and use the diode to splice them both together on the set of white wires now coming from the key cylinder.This bypasses the key chip.

Jim


ilovericeandmuscle
Anonymous Poster

Nov 10, 2006, 4:54 AM

Post #5 of 6 (4319 views)
Re: pass key-II Sign In

P.S.If you're lucky your near a store that sells the diodes on shelves,take a multi meter,set it to the lowest resistance ohms value and touch each probe to each side of the chip in your key,the number that appears is your bypass value,repeat the proccess with the diodes (normally sold on shelves in multi packs) untill you find one that matches the value of your key chip.

Jim


REYGS
User

Nov 21, 2006, 5:35 PM

Post #6 of 6 (4301 views)
Re: pass key-II Sign In

from experience. the contacts on the ignition cylinder must read the resistor on the key. test continuity from the contacts to the connector just left of the steering column. maybe bad ign cylinder. if you want, buy a resistor at radio shak and bypass switch. it works.






 
 
 






Search for (options) Privacy Sitemap