|
|
|
Changing condenser/accumulator
|
|
|
| |
|
|
milly
Novice
Jun 11, 2009, 7:04 AM
Post #1 of 14
(7860 views)
|
|
Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
I have a 1990 Grand Marquis and I'm planning to replace the condenser and accumulator because the condenser was punctured. I've not changed one before but have worked on evacuating/charging systems and I have all the necessary tools (vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, leak detector). Can someone review what I believe I need to do below and let me know if I need to change anything? The compressor is fine so I don't believe I need to flush (would rather not) the system or replace the orifice tube (would rather not).
1. Discharge system
2. Clean around all snap connectors.
3 Disconnect snap-connectors from condenser, add one ounce of Ester oil to new condenser, oil o-rings and attach new condenser.
4. Disconnect snap-connectors from accumulator, add one ounce of Ester oil to new accumulator, oil o-rings, and attach new accumulator.
5. Evacuate system for 30 minutes and check for vacuum loss.
6. Add 3 pounds of R-134a (it's been previously retrofitted) gas method while hosing down condenser (vent off air between each can).
7. Check for leaks.
Thanks guys.
(This post was edited by milly on Jun 11, 2009, 7:12 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 11, 2009, 9:29 AM
Post #2 of 14
(7841 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
3 lbs is a bit too much refrigerant for that system. On a retrofitted system, you only charge the R134 to 80% of the originally charge which would be 38 ounces. I would also go a little heavier on the oil, 3 to 4 ounces total. The easiest way is to just draw it all into the low side while the system is under vacuum.
I think I would advise changing the orifice tube though. It's not worth the risk.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 11, 2009, 9:34 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 11, 2009, 10:45 AM
Post #4 of 14
(7827 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
That one you have to replace the whole liquid line but you can buy aftermarket pretty cheap.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 11, 2009, 10:47 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 11, 2009, 3:03 PM
Post #6 of 14
(7810 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
It's possible that it's in the evap inlet and if it is, that makes it real easy but the info I have says it is in the cent of the liquid line with no access except to cut the line open.
You should be able to follow the line from the condenser and look for the crimp that holds the tube in place. If it's in the liquid line, it may be under some foam rubber.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
milly
Novice
Jun 11, 2009, 4:08 PM
Post #7 of 14
(7804 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
Ok. Thanks for helping me with that. I don't see any crimp in the liquid line. On the evaporator inlet, I do see a 3-4" section (with a crimp) downstream of the snap connector. Maybe that's where it is. I'm waiting until I receive all the parts before I begin dis-assembly so I won't know for about a week. Gives me time to learn more though.
Could you tell me what size orifice tube I would need if that is indeed where it is? When I do a search for orifice tubes online at various part sites such as Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts and input my make and model, it comes up with several possibilities.
I think I need the fixed orifice color-coded blue or would a variable orifice tube be better?
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 11, 2009, 4:12 PM
Post #8 of 14
(7800 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
Variables might give you a litttle better cooling at idle but it takes a blue one normally.
If you see the crimp there, just pop the spring lock off and look inside. It will be right there if your in the right place. If not, you'll have to get a liquid line. I didn't think they started putting them in the evaps until later though.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 12, 2009, 8:03 AM
Post #9 of 14
(7790 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
I didn't see new "O" rings mentioned for the spring locks - do use new + 134a compatible.
Suggest 4 oz oil with what is being replaced as this car should not have a problem if over an ounce or two on oil. Easy touch and feel for charging these also. As Hammer said don't overcharge for oe and watch out as new condenser may reduced system capacity by quite a bit so do the math. Start low as it stinks when you pass the perfect mark. I suggest taking it for a drive when first cooling is noted and finish off after the drive to perfect it,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
milly
Novice
Jun 12, 2009, 12:23 PM
Post #10 of 14
(7781 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks Tom and Hammer.
I got the condenser and accumulator earlier than expected, today at 9:00 a so I did the work. Total time 6 hours. I changed the orifice tube, added 4 oz oil, and I did have to get an o-ring kit. I put new o-rings at the hex-nut at the accumulator inlet, the snap connector at the outlet of the accumulator, small o-rings at both the high-pressure switch port and the low port on the accumulator which I had to transfer from the old accumlulator, and two o-rings at the snap connector at the evaporator inlet where I replaced the orifice tube.
I really like the technique of flooding the system with liquid refridgerant explained above. I emptied one and 1/2 cans of liquid quickly and easily into the high side (compressor not running), and then easily added another can on the low side with the jumper running the compressor continuously (still that's only about 32 oz but I didnt' want to overcharge).
It's ice cold but I detected leaks at the places where I put the new o-rings. I do have a sensitive detector and it's indicating small leaks. Maybe I used the wrong o-rings but I was careful to measure each and use what I felt was the right size from the box of assorted AC o-rings I purchased. I may have to disassemble (after discharging) these connections at some latter time and try again with a new set of o-rings.
Can anyone suggest what I may have done wrong to cause these points to have leaks? Or is is possible it's just residual refridgerant from the charging? Not likely is it?
(This post was edited by milly on Jun 12, 2009, 3:31 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 12, 2009, 1:13 PM
Post #11 of 14
(7777 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
I don't know what your using for a detector but if it's a CPS, you can't go too sensitive with that thing because it will go off for about anything including air. They are decent detectors but you have to get used to them because of all of the false alarms. I would try another detector to make sure you really have a leak there. You would have had to damaged to O-ring for that to happen.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
milly
Novice
Jun 12, 2009, 2:50 PM
Post #12 of 14
(7770 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
I have a Robinair 16600 leak detector. I'm pretty sure it's detecting correctly although after the car had been sitting for some time, I barely got any detection. Note also when I pulled the vacuum, I let it sit for 10 minutes and it did not loose any vacuum so that indicated to me I didn't have any leaks. Not sure what's up. I'll continue to monitor it in the coming days.
Thanks for the help guys. I was a little unsure of myself when I made the first post but your replies helped me overcome some of my inhibitions and I'm glad Hammer convinced me to change the orifice tube. I'd feel very comfortable and confident now to take apart this unit again if I have to, and as I see it if times get tough, I can ask Hammer for a job (except for the leaks I mean) .
(This post was edited by milly on Jun 12, 2009, 3:30 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 12, 2009, 3:49 PM
Post #13 of 14
(7759 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
LOL, no problem. You did your homework first and avoided mistakes. good job.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 12, 2009, 6:25 PM
Post #14 of 14
(7749 views)
|
|
Re: Changing condenser/accumulator
|
Sign In
|
|
As Hammer said do the homework first. Mistakes can ruin a good job!
Leak detector?? There's so much stuff around you may not get accurate readings now for a while. Penetrating oils and cleaners and set them off. Remember holding a vacuum is only holding back 14.7 psi of atmosphere but still a great sign.
Late - but lube O rings with mineral, baby oil (no joke) or a lube called Nylog. PAG can wash away but better than nothing.
Good luck with the project,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jun 12, 2009, 6:25 PM)
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Lukewarm Heat............
Buy Flualprazolam Powder Online Whatsapp: +1(424) 328-1086
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
