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2005 matrix shocks and struts
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tygrannas
New User
Dec 8, 2013, 10:08 PM
Post #1 of 8
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2005 matrix shocks and struts
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I just brought my car in for an oil change and was informed I needed to replace all shocks and struts because my tires are cupping and my timing belt is cracked, and the estimate was over $1000. I dont have anywhere near enough money to pay for all these repairs so I started researching to see what i could do myself and how much parts would cost and any other ways to save any money. I have not done any automotive repairs but I have done many home repairs. There is about 75k miles on the car and all the parts are original
The timing belt looked easy enough to change but im not sure what I would need for shocks and struts as well as which parts would be compatible with a 2005 matrix
Any help and advice would be much appreciated.
(This post was edited by tygrannas on Dec 8, 2013, 10:12 PM)
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GC
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Dec 8, 2013, 10:38 PM
Post #2 of 8
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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I believe this vehicle has a timing chain. NOT an easy diy job for someone without experience. Im assuming you are referring instead to the serpentine belt. If you want to do the front struts, without a spring compressor, you will have to get quick strut assemblies, with new springs pre-installed. Showing couple options for the rear struts depending on fwd or awd. No mods on this vehicle? You may want to take it to a different shop and get an estimate there. Even if you do this yourself, youll need it aligned, so be sure how much you stand to save.
____________________________________________________
Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
(This post was edited by goiserclause on Dec 8, 2013, 10:44 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2013, 10:53 PM
Post #3 of 8
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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Quote">>I have not done any automotive repairs but I have done many home repairs. There is about 75k miles on the car and all the parts are original <<"
Not a good place to start. This doesn't add up. Cost of good struts alone, at cost is close to your estimate never mind tires, alignment, timing belt job - there is no timing belt on this car it's a chain and a novel of instructions/procedures or you'll about blow the engine. No known schedule to me to replace it.
Perhaps get another opinion on what this needs entirely. Tires you can see for yourself the wear irregularities, why needs diagnosing and I'm not convinced of price quote or what might really be needed.
This will show up all funky but the most common of two possible engines this is just the procedure for a timing chain which could be incorrect but look...........
Removal & Installation
- Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
- Drain the cooling system.
- Remove or disconnect the following:
Right side engine under cover Right front wheel and tire Cylinder head cover Wire harness clamp and suction hose assembly, 2ZZ-GE engine Drive belt
- Separate the vane pipe assembly, but do not disconnect the hose, 1ZZ-FE engine.
Alternator bracket, 2ZZ-GE Alternator
Power steering pump reservoir and position it aside, 1ZZ-FE engine
- Place a jack with a wooden block under the vehicle for support, then remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts and remove the right side engine mount.
- Remove the engine wire as follows, on 1ZZ-FE engines:
- Remove the 5 clamps from the brackets.
- Detach the connectors.
- Remove the ignition coil connectors.
- Bolt and nut holding the engine wire.
- Remove the engine wire as follows, on 2ZZ-GE engines:
- Detach the ignition coil, oil control valve and Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor electrical connectors.
- Bolt and nut for the engine ground, then position the engine wire aside
- Remove or disconnect the following:
Ignition coil assembly Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hoses from the cylinder head cover, if necessary Cylinder head (valve) cover sub-assembly
- Set the No. 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compressor stroke as follows:
- Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the -0- timing mark of the timing chain cover.
- Make sure the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and VVT timing sprockets are in a straight line as shown. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 complete revolution (360°) and align the marks.
  
Fig. Proper timing mark alignment for TDC Proper timing mark alignment for TDC
Crankshaft pulley, using SST 09960-10010 Belt tensioner Water pump pulley, if equipped, and pump Transverse engine mounting bracket Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor No. 1 chain tensioner assembly, making sure not to revolve the crankshaft without the tensioner Timing chain cover. The cover is retained with 11 bolts and nuts and a Torx® stud bolt. Pry the cover between the cylinder head and block to remove it.
Fig. Timing chain cover mounting-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-GE similar Timing chain cover mounting-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-GE similar Timing gear cover oil seal CKP sensor plate No. 1 Timing chain tensioner slipper
Fig. With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-GE similar With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-GE similar
NOTE In case you turn the camshafts with the timing chain removed, turn the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn for the valve to avoid contact with the pistons.
Timing chain sub-assembly. Remove the chain with the crankshaft gear, using screwdrivers as shown
Fig. Remove the timing chain with the crankshaft gear
Remove the timing chain with the crankshaft gear
To install: - Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke:
- Turn the hexagonal wrench head part of the camshafts, and align the point marks of the cam sprockets.
Fig. Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-1ZZ-FE engine Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-1ZZ-FE engine
Fig. Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-2ZZ-GE engine Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-2ZZ-GE engine- Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft and position the crankshaft set key upward.
- Install or connect the following:
Timing chain on the crank sprocket with the yellow link aligned with the mark on the crank sprocket. There are 3 yellow links on the timing chain.
Fig. Make sure the yellow link is aligned with the crankshaft sprocket timing mark-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE engines Make sure the yellow link is aligned with the crankshaft sprocket timing mark-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE engines Crankshaft sprocket, using SST 09223-22010 Timing chain on the camshaft sprockets with the yellow links aligned with the marks on the cam sprockets
Fig. The yellow links of the timing chain must align with the camshaft sprocket timing marks-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE engines The yellow links of the timing chain must align with the camshaft sprocket timing marks-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE engines Timing chain tensioner slipper and tighten the bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) Crankshaft position sensor plate, with the -F- mark facing forward Timing gear cover oil seal Timing cover. For 1ZZ-FE engine, tighten the -A- bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm), the -B- bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) and the stud bolt to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm), using a Torx® wrench. For 2ZZ-GE engines, tighten the M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 m), the M6 bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and the stud bolt to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm).
NOTEWhen installing the tensioner, make sure to set the hook again if the hook releases the plunger.
Timing chain tensioner. Torque the nuts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
Fig. Timing chain tensioner-1ZZ-FE engine Timing chain tensioner-1ZZ-FE engine CKP sensor and tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) Transverse engine mounting bracket. Tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Water pump and pulley Drive belt tensioner. Tighten the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) and the bolt to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm) on 1ZZ-FE engines or to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 2ZZ-GE engines.
- Install the crankshaft pulley, as follows:
- Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley and slide on the pulley.
- Use SST 09960-11010 to install the bolt and tighten to 102 ft. lbs. (138 Nm) for 1ZZ-FE engine or to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm) on 2ZZ-GE engines.
- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise and disconnect the plunger knock pin from the hook.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise and check that the slipper is pushed by the plunger. If the plunger does not spring out, press the slipper into the chain tensioner with a screwdriver so that the hook is released from the knock pin and the plunger springs out.
Cylinder head sub-assembly cover. Install seal packing into the locations shown and install within 3 minutes. Tighten the -A- bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and the -B- bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) for 1ZZ-FE engines. For 2ZZ-GE engines, tighten the bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
Fig. Seal packing installation locations Seal packing installation locations
Fig. Cylinder head (valve) cover bolt locations-1ZZ-FE engine Cylinder head (valve) cover bolt locations-1ZZ-FE engine Ignition coil assembly. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Engine wire and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) Right side engine mount. Tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm). Alternator bracket, 2ZZ-GE engine Alternator Vane pump, 1ZZ-FE Main cylinder head cover and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) Right front wheel and tire. Tighten the lug nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
- Fill the cooling system to the proper level.
- Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
- Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
- Drain the cooling system.
- Remove or disconnect the following:
Right side engine under cover Right front wheel and tire Cylinder head cover Wire harness clamp and suction hose assembly, 2ZZ-FE ENGINE Drive belt
- Separate the vane pipe assembly, but do not disconnect the hose, 1ZZ-FE engine.
Alternator bracket, 2ZZ-GE Alternator
Power steering pump reservoir and position it aside, 1ZZ-FE engine
- Place a jack with a wooden block under the vehicle for support, then remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts and remove the right side engine mount.
Fig. With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-FE similar With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-FE similar - Remove the engine wire as follows, on 1ZZ-FE engines:
- Remove the 5 clamps from the brackets.
- Detach the connectors.
- Remove the ignition coil connectors.
- Bolt and nut holding the engine wire.
- Remove the engine wire as follows, on 2ZZ-FE Engines:
- Detach the ignition coil, oil control valve and Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor electrical connectors.
- Bolt and nut for the engine ground, then position the engine wire aside
- Remove or disconnect the following:
Ignition coil assembly Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hoses from the cylinder head cover, if necessary Cylinder head (valve) cover sub-assembly
- Set the No. 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compressor stroke as follows:
- Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the -0- timing mark of the timing chain cover.
- Make sure the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and VVT timing sprockets are in a straight line as shown. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 complete revolution (360°) and align the marks.
NOTE In case you turn the camshafts with the timing chain removed, turn the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn for the valve to avoid contact with the pistons.
Fig. Proper timing mark alignment for TDC Proper timing mark alignment for TDC
Crankshaft pulley, using SST 09960-10010 Belt tensioner Water pump pulley, if equipped, and pump Transverse engine mounting bracket Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor No. 1 chain tensioner assembly, making sure not to revolve the crankshaft without the tensioner Timing chain cover. The cover is retained with 11 bolts and nuts and a Torx® stud bolt. Pry the cover between the cylinder head and block to remove it.
Fig. Timing chain cover mounting-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-FEsimilar Timing chain cover mounting-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-FEsimilar Timing gear cover oil seal CKP sensor plate No. 1 Timing chain tensioner slipper
Timing chain sub-assembly. Remove the chain with the crankshaft gear, using screwdrivers as shown
Fig. Remove the timing chain with the crankshaft gear Remove the timing chain with the crankshaft gear
To install: - Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke:
- Turn the hexagonal wrench head part of the camshafts, and align the point marks of the cam sprockets.
Fig. Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-1ZZ-FE engine Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-1ZZ-FE engine
Fig. Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-2ZZ-FE ENGINE Proper alignment of the camshaft sprockets-2ZZ-FE ENGINE - Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft and position the crankshaft set key upward.
- Install or connect the following:
NOTEWhen installing the tensioner, make sure to set the hook again if the hook releases the plunger.
Timing chain on the crank sprocket with the yellow link aligned with the mark on the crank sprocket. There are 3 yellow links on the timing chain.
Fig. Make sure the yellow link is aligned with the crankshaft sprocket timing mark-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-FE Engines Make sure the yellow link is aligned with the crankshaft sprocket timing mark-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-FE Engines Crankshaft sprocket, using SST 09223-22010 Timing chain on the camshaft sprockets with the yellow links aligned with the marks on the cam sprockets
Fig. The yellow links of the timing chain must align with the camshaft sprocket timing marks-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-FE Engines The yellow links of the timing chain must align with the camshaft sprocket timing marks-1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-FE Engines Timing chain tensioner slipper and tighten the bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) Crankshaft position sensor plate, with the -F- mark facing forward Timing gear cover oil seal Timing cover. For 1ZZ-FE engine, tighten the -A- bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm), the -B- bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) and the stud bolt to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm), using a Torx® wrench. For 2ZZ-FE Engines, tighten the M8 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 m), the M6 bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and the stud bolt to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm).
Timing chain tensioner. Torque the nuts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
Fig. Timing chain tensioner-1ZZ-FE engine Timing chain tensioner-1ZZ-FE engine CKP sensor and tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) Transverse engine mounting bracket. Tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Water pump and pulley Drive belt tensioner. Tighten the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) and the bolt to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm) on 1ZZ-FE engines or to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 2ZZ-FE Engines.
- Install the crankshaft pulley, as follows:
- Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley and slide on the pulley.
- Use SST 09960-11010 to install the bolt and tighten to 102 ft. lbs. (138 Nm) for 1ZZ-FE engine or to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm) on 2ZZ-FE Engines.
- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise and disconnect the plunger knock pin from the hook.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise and check that the slipper is pushed by the plunger. If the plunger does not spring out, press the slipper into the chain tensioner with a screwdriver so that the hook is released from the knock pin and the plunger springs out.
Cylinder head sub-assembly cover. Install seal packing into the locations shown and install within 3 minutes. Tighten the -A- bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and the -B- bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) for 1ZZ-FE engines. For 2ZZ-FE Engines, tighten the bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
Fig. Seal packing installation locations Seal packing installation locations
Fig. Cylinder head (valve) cover bolt locations-1ZZ-FE engine Cylinder head (valve) cover bolt locations-1ZZ-FE engine Ignition coil assembly. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Engine wire and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) Right side engine mount. Tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm). Alternator bracket, 2ZZ-FE ENGINE Alternator Vane pump, 1ZZ-FE Main cylinder head cover and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) Right front wheel and tire. Tighten the lug nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
- Fill the cooling system to the proper level.
- Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
******************************* You think you are going to do that and you've never done ANY automotive repairs!? I think not. This estimate is all wrong from the plain smell of it. Get another, T
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tygrannas
New User
Dec 8, 2013, 11:06 PM
Post #4 of 8
(4868 views)
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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okay timing chain not belt, so I cant do that. as far as the estimate it was $1000 for the shocks and struts, not including the timing belt or tires. I did not see any visible signs on the tires and the mechanic never brought up replacing them just fixing the struts before they do get damaged.
thanks for the help
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GC
User
Dec 8, 2013, 11:14 PM
Post #5 of 8
(4864 views)
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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With Tom on this. Especially if someones telling you your timing belt is cracked.... take it elsewhere. Getting another opinion is free. I would start there. Also you stated that your tires were cupping, but no evidence? Something not adding up.
____________________________________________________
Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
(This post was edited by goiserclause on Dec 8, 2013, 11:16 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2013, 11:19 PM
Post #6 of 8
(4859 views)
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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This whole thing is all wet! Do what before what but nothing shows right now???? "Looks like a fish, smells like a fish so guess what? IT'S A FISH!"
Appreciate your vigor in wanting to do stuff and with correct tools and help for first times on certain things go for it.
I never owned an alignment machine so bet you don't and the list goes on.
Takes years of training and enough tools and equipment to choke a horse to do stuff on simpler cars. Just bounce the struts, check for equal height and have joints checked for wear for suspension. Tires: Are they evenly worn or not? @ 75K you could easily be needing a third set all depending.
Check just prices on line for parts - any large outlets have websites for prices. Tire prices vary wildly by nature and if really needed you do want any and all parts right for an alignment with new tires so you get the most out of them.
Already said - get another check on what this car really needs or not. Labor pricing varies by shop and location and always did,
T
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tygrannas
New User
Dec 8, 2013, 11:30 PM
Post #7 of 8
(4853 views)
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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my studded tires are the tires currently on the car, most of my driving has been on the summer tires and im replacing those in the spring when i swap back
Taking it to another shop in the morning, thanks for the help
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2013, 11:41 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Re: 2005 matrix shocks and struts
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OK - If you are doing studded snows they can wear funky. Should be all four for FWD based vehicles. Your bucks but like to have wheels for seasonal tires rather than mount/dismounting all the time just swap whole wheels w tires ready.
If into studded tires who cares about looks IMO you are in a snow/ice belt like I am. All cars the same color - dirt and salt - argh!
Good luck,
T
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