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2006 Trailblazer Wont Go In Gear
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XfalconX
Novice
Aug 27, 2016, 12:14 PM
Post #1 of 21
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2006 Trailblazer Wont Go In Gear
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2006
Chevy
Trailblazer LS
Vortec 4200 4.2 Inline 6
Automatic
2 wheel drive
My wife was driving her TB and while driving the transmission just stopped shifting. No noise, no warning signs, no nothing. It wont go into any gear at all, just revs. I let it warm up for 30 minutes and checked the transmission fluid and there seems to be a thin even amount of fluid far past the full marker, picture here http://imgur.com/a/xjEvI. Is this normal? It appears it is either way over filled or under filled. I checked the linkage and its not broken but it makes a weird clicking from where the linkage connects to the transmission.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 27, 2016, 12:41 PM
Post #2 of 21
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Re: 2006 Trailblazer Wont Go In Gear
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Site trans guru should be by soon but looks way too full in your pic. Why? Did you touch it or add yourself or recently someone else?
Basics: Too full if checking properly can be a couple things that come to mind and also not engage a gear. Depending on type the trans filter can fall down and can't pick up fluid or front pump isn't pumping at all so level wouldn't change engine running or not or never sure for all but checked in "P" or "N" matters for level shown.
Till he gets here for more suggestions I'm just asking if it's using up trans fluid, leaking that you know of and chance it wasn't filled properly recently or has been running low regularly - if so you need to find out why and not run too low. Probably not by the color unless you just added fluid now?
T
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kev2
Veteran
Aug 27, 2016, 1:21 PM
Post #4 of 21
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Re: 2006 Trailblazer Wont Go In Gear
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Looks as I you did not wipe dipstick and reinstall ? OR manually shift all gears before testing - but it may NOT be shifting so suggest you SCAN for codes especially if light is off.
2 wheel drive correct?
(This post was edited by kev2 on Aug 27, 2016, 1:22 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2016, 1:24 PM
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OK - Wait for another but I think pump isn't pumping - this is checked with engine running. Says in English like many do it must be warm and probably do not add if in cross hatched area which should be between the two holes. Just note that distance is ONE PINT not a quart. You could check again with dipstick both ways checking both sides but that shows extreme and if not faulty the way checked or accidentally over filled if unable to pump fluid level would read high AND wouldn't engage a gear.
Let another come by with ideas on what you can do if anything at all yourself for a fix. By this model year it probably has a code that will say pressure isn't right - as it isn't pumping which is checking it with fluid moving around so reads lower.
I doubt you have a code reader for a vehicle that doesn't move so expect this any which way to be towed to where this can be fully diagnosed and fixed by you or a shop.
Again, let him (Gary) suggest or another but think a tow in in the cards to know more,
T
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kev2
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Aug 27, 2016, 4:22 PM
Post #8 of 21
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try this - will reverse lights work - would ck shifter cable.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Aug 27, 2016, 11:16 PM
Post #10 of 21
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What do you mean you aren't sure if reverse light work? They do or they don't. IF you can't get that far there's a misunderstanding.
Some call them "back-up" lights. All vehicles have them. Some whacked things like that (I can't know them all) tell computer something wrong and mess things up. Wrong info can send a signal to force a system into default that just might include not allowing it to do other things like this which is why you were asked.
It's just too common for one problem to set off another,
T
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XfalconX
Novice
Aug 27, 2016, 11:51 PM
Post #12 of 21
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Yes, the reverse lights work.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Aug 28, 2016, 12:19 AM
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Wish Gary - user name 'gsferraro' would come by.
There's only so much I can know vehicle by vehicle what will alter what else. It's possible that brake or back up lights disable or enable it to drive?
Finding fluid too high strongly suggests to me that it isn't pumping fluid from a pump at front of transmissions that make them operate as the hydraulic machine they are also computer controlled.
Transmissions and total repair of them is it's own sub-specialty in the automotive trade. I/we (can't speak for all) learn all of it, at least basic operation and principles of how it works but many shops don't take on all aspects of any problem a vehicle can have like transmissions myself or others would diagnose that it needs more equipment and time than our shops could take on including new car dealer send this stuff out where I am. No room for specialty equipment that might end up in a transmission overhaul so don't get it part done and stuck with it.
By subject line alone this doesn't go into gear at all so you are stuck and testing limited already. Can't know if it did finally engage if it would even shift and run properly at this point or still need more work?
In a pickle with this so ask yourself - ARE YOU GOING TO TAKE THIS TRANS OUT YOURSELF IF IT NEEDS A REPAIR OR OVERHAUL ANYWAY? If you can't or not capable than it's nuts to pursue this any more. Choose a transmission shop of you choice and send this out for the fix which is why there are shops all over the place.
It's possible that it's something real easy but about now don't think so. I think front pump failed for some reason and can't operate the transmission at all just like the engine wasn't running it wouldn't do anything either.
Speak for myself - I'm trying to think of what is possible that can cause what you've already observed that you really could do yourself with transmission in place. Most folks do not have the place or equipment to remove whole transmissions so if required it would be sent out anyway. If I was just sure enough of that it would be useful info and only almost there at this point,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 28, 2016, 2:45 AM
Post #14 of 21
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To add: Just found with some marginally dependable information on this transmission + application. Can't verify this is correct.
Quoted"Transmission control solenoid controls fluid flow into and throughout an automatic transmissionWhen not replaced, vehicle may not shift, shift intermittently, have excessive engine speed for vehicle speed, excessive fuel consumption and/or CEL illuminationDesigned to meet or exceed OE specifications in form, fit and function************** END"
The first 'bullet' comment on what this part does says a lot to me. "Control fluid flow throughout transmission" strongly suggests if this failed to allow fluid flow nothing would operate AND fluid level could read way too high. It didn't say would read too high but it would have to if not flowing.
Problem here: It should set a code to help verify. Not sure if externally installed in internal, just accessed thru oil pan or special tools?
OMG - Where's Gary?
Tom
Why: Because you picture didn't show burned fluid to me
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kev2
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Aug 28, 2016, 9:19 AM
Post #15 of 21
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I gather the vehicle is NOT where you can work it...
The necessary steps would be CODES even if CEL is off
A scanner can do much more than check codes it can read data and make input commands -
WITHOUT scanner you could
Drop pan - inspect fluid, filter, any debris in pan -
A 4L60E just failing completely no warning has me asking lots of questions... sorry cant help or suggest anything else
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gsferraro
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Aug 28, 2016, 9:33 AM
Post #16 of 21
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Hello,
If your fluid is way above the full mark, then your pump is no good. Not much can be done about this other than to drop out the trans. Gary
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 28, 2016, 9:50 AM
Post #17 of 21
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The guru cometh so I can quit search the entire web for specifics on this that I don't trust and fly out of this thread now,
Tom
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kev2
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Aug 28, 2016, 10:45 AM
Post #18 of 21
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no no gary you are not getting away without sharing some knowledge- :)
If the pump were bad wouldn't some codes show up - ie pressur control solenoid ?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 28, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Said I'd stay out but in that hunt said two versions of the 4L60E were used possible. One used a fluid control and the other didn't really say. I don't trust that source for accurate info - done, Tom
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XfalconX
Novice
Aug 29, 2016, 2:09 PM
Post #20 of 21
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**UPDATE**
Okay so, since everyone is saying it doesn't appear to be pumping fluid here is what I did to test it. I located the hose the connects to the "radiator" that cools the fluid and popped off the one that sends the fluid in. I attached a cut length of hose to the end and put the other end in a drain can. I turned on the the vehicle and crossed my fingers that the hose would start spitting fluid. See picture here http://imgur.com/U0I9VRF It did not spit any fluid and I tried shifting gears while it was running also. So it seems the transmission is in fact not pumping fluid. Before you guys scold me for not getting it towed in yet I figured this test would do a few things. 1) See if fluid is being pumped and if it was I could measure it and see if it was over filled, replace the fluid at the correct amount and hope the flush solved the issue. 2) If it didn't spit out any fluid I would have a very good idea of the issue. That being said, can the pump itself be replaced? And if it can what is a ballpark price? I don't have no plans on trying to do it myself but just would like an idea of price so I know what I'm looking at.
Thanks again
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 29, 2016, 3:01 PM
Post #21 of 21
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I seriously doubt any shop will agree to change just the pump. The trans should get a whole rebuild while apart.
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