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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 11:58 AM
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5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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I've just recently purchased a 1989 GMC Sierra K2500 LB to replace my 1988 K1500 SB that started losing gears one by one. 2 months later, the tranny in the newer truck lost reverse. I can't afford to buy a 3rd truck so I have to repair it myself. Well, like most guys with these transmissions, I went thru hell trying to identify exactly which tranny I have. I'm 99% sure I have the 5LM60. My problem is that I've got the tranny almost fully taken apart, but I can't seem to remove the gear clusters out of the case and I can't find any info on it online to help me disassemble it. The diagrams for "Getrag 290" or "HM290" show slightly different internals so I'm stuck. Can someone please help me figure out how to pull the main shaft from the rear half of the case so i can replace the shattered syncro on the 5th gear/reverse rail? If someone could post photos of a few pages from a factory manual or similar, that would be awesome! Let me know if you need more info from me. Thank you in advance.
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gsferraro
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Mar 3, 2017, 2:43 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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This trans has a cast iron top cover with the forks?
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 2:54 PM
Post #3 of 25
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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No, it's got a solid aluminum case
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gsferraro
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Mar 3, 2017, 3:03 PM
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Whats the engine size?
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 3:05 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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V8 5.7
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gsferraro
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Mar 3, 2017, 3:59 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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I will check mitchell on demand again, but its telling me its an SM465, does it have a top cover with forks or a side cover with the forks? May need a picture
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 4:32 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 4, 2017, 3:02 PM)
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gsferraro
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Mar 3, 2017, 4:39 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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wow, thats similar to the german Getrag transmission. they are not so easy to work on, Ive worked on about 3 of them, that whole rear section forks and all have to come out as one assembly.
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 4:41 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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Right. So how do I get the rear case to let go of it all? Do I have to use a gear puller or push them out? The case is soft aluminum I don't want to bend it
(This post was edited by benfromsac on Mar 3, 2017, 4:42 PM)
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 4:46 PM
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Also, just so you know, the bellhousing is integrated into the front half of the case. So it's not detachable from the transmission it comes off with the front half
(This post was edited by benfromsac on Mar 3, 2017, 4:47 PM)
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gsferraro
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Mar 3, 2017, 4:56 PM
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Trying to remember, i think it has to come out of the rear bearing, be pushed out carefully. The linkage shifter that sticks out of the case would have to come out and i believe the reverse idler gear by that aluminum support. I think the rear bearing stays in the case and i may have used a brass hammer to start the shaft moving. Sorry, its been a while. Gary
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 4:57 PM
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Here is the exterior.. with the tail made to receive a transfer case
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 4, 2017, 3:02 PM)
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 5:00 PM
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Re: 5LM60 5speed Manual HELP
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Yes, I have removed the shift linkage, but the idler shaft and it's gears won't come out until the other 2 shafts come out since there's a larger gear blocking it's exit.
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 5:17 PM
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It'd be really beneficial to get a peek at an exploded diagram to see if there's a c-clip keeping the main shaft attached to the rear bearing... like right behind the rear seal?
(This post was edited by benfromsac on Mar 3, 2017, 5:29 PM)
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gsferraro
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Mar 3, 2017, 6:46 PM
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Either there is a snap ring, or a bearing retainer bolted from the inside(thats how the getrag is) let me do some research through mitchell on demand, can you post the vin number?
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benfromsac
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Mar 3, 2017, 6:51 PM
Post #16 of 25
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1GTFK24K3KE514992 I believe bolted bearing retainer is only available on the rear wheel drive models. I don't think there is one on my 4 wheel drive model
(This post was edited by benfromsac on Mar 3, 2017, 6:52 PM)
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 4, 2017, 11:41 AM
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Here is the procedure for putting the Muncie back together. All you would have to do is reverse the steps eh? 1. Install pilot bearing (3) into input shaft (1) with smaller diameter of bearing cage toward input shaft. Retain with petroleum jelly. 2. Install input shaft (1), pilot bearing (3), synchronizer ring (2) and mainshaft assembly (4) (2 wheel drive 4 speed and 5 speed) or (5) (4 wheel drive 5 speed) into assembly pallet tool No. J-36515. 3. Install countershaft adapter tool No. J-36515-12 onto countershaft (53) (5 speed) or (54) (4 speed). Install assembly onto assembly pallet tool No. J-36515. 4. Install reverse idler assembly (46) and new O-ring (52). 5. Install bearing assembly outer race (37) and ball bearing outer race (38) (2 wheel drive models only). 6. Install the following on mainshaft assembly (4) or (5): 3-4 shift fork (108) (with taper on fork towards 3rd gear), 1-2 shift rail assembly (100). On 4 speed models only, install reverse shift rail assembly (111) and spacer block (115). Lock up transmission by sliding 3-4 shift fork (108) and 1-2 shift rail assembly downward towards Assembly Pallet tool No. J-36515. 7. On 2 wheel drive models, install 4mm ball (40) on output shaft and retain with petroleum jelly. 8. Install inner threaded thrust ring (41) and outer threaded thrust ring (39). Ensure that old spiral roll pin (42) is removed from outer threaded thrust ring (39). Install ring as follows: a. Screw rings completely together, then back of rings until both ID slots for ball (40) line up. b. Slide assembled rings over ball retained on output shaft. c. Slide rod on output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516, turn black depth locating tang over and slide rod through. d. Make clearance for snap ring by first screwing rings completely together by turning output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 counterclockwise. 9. Install new snap ring (43). 10. Turning output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 clockwise, torque to 12 ft. lbs., then advance to next spiral roll pin notch. Hold countershaft against mainshaft while setting torque. 11. Install new spiral roll pin (42) as follows: a. Install roll pin in bottom of output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516. b. Install output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 with roll pin hole and roll pin lined up. c. Drive roll pin into outer thrust ring, then remove tool. 12. Install speed sensor rotor (45). Heat rotor to 250°F for 7-10 minutes prior to installation. 13. Install shim (212) onto output shaft bearing assembly (33) and retain with petroleum jelly. 2 wheel drive rear housing output shaft bearing assembly bore must be heated with a heat gun for 3-5 minutes prior to assembly. 14. Install output shaft bearing retainer alignment cables tool No. J-36515-10 through bolt holes (304, 305) in rear housing, Fig. 11, screw into output shaft bearing retainer (302). Ensure that notch in retainer is towards oil delivery tube assembly (307). 15. Install bearing (203) into bearing race (202) of housing. Place smaller diameter of bearing cage into bearing race and retain with petroleum jelly. Press each roller towards the race to secure them for easier assembly. 16. Install rear housing assembly (300), ensuring that reverse idler shaft is lined up with hole in case. Pull up on output shaft bearing retainer alignment cables tool No. J-36515-10 while installing rear housing. Bring housing straight down. If resistance is felt at about 1/4 inch, then rollers are cocked. Repeat above procedures to install. Do not force housing down. Remove output shaft bearing retainer alignment cables tool No. J-36515-10 when housing is installed. 17. Install bolts (304) and (305), applying pipe sealant GM P/N 1052080 or equivalent to bolt holes of rear housing. Apply Loctite to bolt threads. Torque bolts (304, 305) to 17 ft. lbs. 18. On 4 wheel drive models, refer to Fig. 12. Install bearing (203) into bearing race (202). Ensure that smaller diameter of bearing cage is placed into bearing race, retain with petroleum jelly. Press each bearing toward the race to ensure easier assembly. 19. Install rear housing assembly (301), ensuring that reverse idler shaft is lined up with hole in case. Bring housing straight down, if resistance is felt at about 1/4 inch, then rollers (35) or (203) are cocked. Repeat above procedures to install, do not force housing down. 20. Install ball bearing outer race (38). 21. Install 4mm ball onto output shaft, retain with petroleum jelly. 22. Install inner threaded thrust ring (41) and outer threaded thrust ring (39). Ensure that old spiral roll pin is removed from outer ring. Screw rings together completely, then back rings off until both ID slots for ball (40) line up. Slide assembled rings over ball retained on output shaft. Slide rod of output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 up, turn black depth locating tang over and slide rod through, thus installing roll pin to correct depth. Make clearance for snap ring by first screwing rings together completely by turning output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 counterclockwise. 23. Install a new 2mm thick snap ring (43). 24. Turning output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 clockwise, torque to 12 ft. lbs., then advance to next spiral roll pin notch. 25. Install new spiral roll pin (42) as follows: a. Install roll pin in bottom of output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516, retain with petroleum jelly. b. Install output shaft spanner tool No. J-36516 with roll pin hole and roll pin lined up. c. Drive roll pin into thrust ring (outer). d. Remove tool, then install seal protector onto output shaft. 26. Install output shaft oil seal (320) using seal installer tool No. J-36502. Fill area between seal lips with chassis grease, then remove seal protector. 27. On all models, lay unit down horizontally and remove assembly pallet tool No. J-36515, then install idler shaft support (310) and bolt (311) as follows: a. Line up bolt threads in idler shaft support with bolt hole. Machined surfaces on face of casting must be installed down into case because bolt hole is slightly off center. Incorrect installation will cause incorrect reverse gear tooth pattern under load. b. Apply pipe sealant 1052080 or equivalent to bolt hole. c. Apply Loctite to bolt threads. d. Hold reverse idler shaft against idler support while tightening, torque bolt (311) to 17 ft. lbs. e. Install holding fixture tool No. J-8763-21 on tool No. J-8763-02 or equivalent. 28. Install holding adapter tool No. J-36824 onto transmission case, then place holding fixture tool No. J-8763-02 onto holding adapter tool No. J-36824. 29. Install two interlock balls (323), Fig. 13, as follows: a. Place all forks in neutral position and coat balls with petroleum jelly. b. Using a magnetic screwdriver, insert interlock balls (one at a time) through plug hole. c. Using a small blade screwdriver, push one ball to the 1-2 shift rail side and the other to the 3-4 shift rail side. 30. Install 3-4 shift rail (109) with interlock pin (110) as follows: a. Retain pin with petroleum jelly. b. Ensure that detent slots in 3-4 shift rail are up. c. Install through 3-4 shift fork and into the rear housing shift rail bearing. d. 1-2 and 5-reverse shift rail must be in neutral position or interlock system will not allow 3-4 rail to engage. 31. Install 36mm roll pin (107) to a depth where a maximum of 12.5mm (measured from edge of 3-4 rail to top of roll pin) is left remaining. If roll pin is not at proper depth, it may rub on front housing and cause 3rd or 4th gear hop out. Ensure interlock balls are in place by trying to move two shift rails. 32. Coat edge of new plug (326) with gasket maker 1052943 or equivalent, then install plug flush. 33. Install shift shaft (116), finger (121) and shift shaft socket assembly (123), Fig. 14. 34. Install three detent balls (323) and three springs (324). 35. Install detent spring cover (325) and two bolts (236). Apply gasket maker 1052943 or equivalent to outside of bolt hole pattern of detent spring cover. Torque bolts (236) to 7 ft. lbs. 36. Install four rollers (118) and retain with petroleum jelly, Fig. 15. 37. Install countershaft bearing (203) in bearing race (202) of front housing, Fig. 16. Smaller diameter of bearing cage is placed against bearing race. Retain with petroleum jelly and press on each roller towards outside of bearing race to lock it in place. Apply petroleum jelly to bearing race on input shaft. 38. Install roller bearing (218) and ball bearing outer race (217). Apply gasket maker 1052943 or equivalent to outside of bolt hole pattern of rear housing. 39. Install front housing (200). Bring housing straight down, if resistance is felt at about 1/4 inch, then rollers are cocked. Repeat steps 37, 38 and 39. Do not force housing down. 40. Install two dowels (321). 41. Install bolts (312). Do not tighten. 42. Install ball bearing outer race (215), input shaft spacer (211) and new selective snap ring (210), Fig. 17 as follows: a. Install thickest snap ring that will fit. b. If necessary, pull out on input shaft to install selective snap ring. c. Apply gasket maker 1052943 or equivalent to inside of cover bolt hole pattern. Do not apply excessive gasket maker around oil drain back hole, this may restrict oil flow through bearing and lead to premature bearing failure. 43. Install shim (212) into input shaft bearing retainer assembly (205). Ensure that input bearing retainer washer (208) is in place. Retain with petroleum jelly. 44. Install input shaft bearing retainer assembly (205) and six bolts. Ensure that oil drain back hole is lined up with hole in housing. Torque bolts to 7 ft. lbs. 45. Install shift shaft detent plunger (243), shift shaft detent spring (244) and plug (245) using a brass drift. Apply pipe sealant 1052080 or equivalent to plug. 46. Install new O-ring (315) onto electronic speed sensor assembly (316) (2 wheel drive models only). Coat O-ring with a thin coat of transmission oil. 47. Install electronic speed sensor assembly and bolt (2 wheel drive models only). Torque bolt to 7 ft. lbs. 48. Install back-up lamp switch assembly (313). Apply pipe sealant 1052080 or equivalent to threads, then torque switch to 7 ft. lbs. 49. Remove holding fixture tool No. J-8763-02 and holding adapter tool No. J-36824. 50. Install bolts (312). Torque to 27 ft. lbs. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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benfromsac
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Mar 4, 2017, 11:45 AM
Post #18 of 25
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Awesome, thank you for all your effort when you didn't have to.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 4, 2017, 12:35 PM
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I've done some reading on that particular transmission. Several people stated it is a challenge to overhaul. Parts are expensive and hard to find also. Hope you can get it sorted out. If not, you could always install a NV3500, but there may be some modifications that you would need to do to the crossmember and driveshaft. quoted from wiki
There are four GM medium duty transmission designs that led to and are often mistaken for the NV3500: - 1987 MG-290 MG= Muncie Gear
- 1988 HM-290 HM= Hydramatic Muncie
- 1989 5LM60 (early)
- 1991 NVG 5LM60 (late) NVG= New Venture Gear
- 1993[1] New Venture Gear releases the NV3500. Externally the earlier GM units look like the NV3500; however the internal components were extensively redesigned.
- The HM290 and 5LM60 units have a complicated arrangement of 4 shift rails. The NV3500 has one shift rail.[2]
- There are two designs for the 5LM60 input shaft and bearings (input shaft and main shaft). The first design 1988–1990 has a ball bearing with a roller bearing behind it. The second design has a much larger single ball bearing. The first design bearings are reputed to be failure prone.[3] The updated input shaft and bearings carried through to the NV3500.
- All 5 of these transmissions can be interchanged as a complete unit with the following caveats.
- "Drop-in" interchanges between GM S (S10 etc.) and C/K trucks will require modification of driveshaft length and crossmember placement. GM S models have a longer tail-shaft than C/K trucks.
- Master & slave cylinder bore sizes went from standard to metric in 1992 (Master: 11/16"->18mm, Slave 13/16" ->20mm)
- GM and Dodge transmissions will not interchange.
- The case and bellhousing are one piece with differing, engine specific, bellhousing bolt patterns.
- Dodge uses Dodge specific input shaft length, spline count, and pilot diameter.
- Dodge output spline count differs from the GM units.
It is most likely a 5LM60 Due to the changes in these transmissions many parts are not interchangeable. These are not easy to work on. There are four design levels of this unit. It started in 1988 as an HM290 found in GM trucks, and was re-designated 5LM60 with early and late designs. Hm290 and 5LM60 units each have 4 shift rails. The unit was completely redesigned as a 3500 with a single shift rail. Due to all the design variations it is critical to positively identify which model trans you are working on in order to get the right parts. NOTE: this transmission should not have 80W-90 fluid it. 80W-90 is to thick and will cause problems. These transmissions had a high rate of front bearing failure. When I received training at the GM training center in Minneapolis in 1991 on this transmission. The training manual (which I still have) refers to it as a 5LM60 Formerly HM-290. At that time I was told the transmission was currently being built by New Venture gear and New Venture Gear is a joint venture between GM (Muncie transmission) and Chrysler (New Process Gear). In 1987 it was referred to as MG-290 My guess is the G is for Getrag In 1988 it was referred to as HM-290 HM= Hydramatic / Muncie In 1989 it was referred to as 5LM60 In 1991 it was referred to as NVG 5LM60 NVG= New Venture Gear There are two designs for the input shaft, input shaft bearings and main shaft bearings. The first design, which documentation will show as 1988-1990, had a ball bearing and a roller bearing behind it. The second design only has a ball bearing but it was a much larger bearing. The first design bearings were more prone to fail. They were failing when these trucks were under warranty with very low miles on them. There is no way I would suggest fixing your transmission. The bearings are very expensive. Last one I did an estimate on, it was over 2 hundred just for the GM input bearing. The input shafts are different so you can’t put the better bearing in the earlier trans. Also if you take apart the main shaft, many of the parts cannot be reused, and you need an oven and melt sticks to heat the parts to the correct temp for pressing them together during reassembly. A large holding fixture (special tool) is used to hold everything in position when assembling the transmission. It is almost always less expensive to replace these transmissions then it is to rebuild them. Even in parts prices alone. It is hard to find good used ones. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 4, 2017, 12:37 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 4, 2017, 3:04 PM
Post #20 of 25
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I deleted your oversized pictures because they made the thread impossible to read. If you need to re-post them, please reduce the size so they fit into the window without enlarging it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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benfromsac
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Mar 4, 2017, 4:16 PM
Post #21 of 25
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hmmm, no one else mentioned anything about problems with the photos and my browser on both the laptop and smartphone showed the thread just fine, but whatever... OK, for all of those who need this info on the 5LM60 5speed Manual transmission used in the 1989 GMC Sierra in the future, I found exactly what I was asking for at this link: Link deleted ...................... not allowed (send me a private msg and I'll hook you up) It is the original Factory Unit Repair Manual converted to PDF format and contains plenty of images and step by step instructions. This particular transmission is covered on pages 839 to 891. Hope this helps! Forum Rules
(This post was edited by benfromsac on Mar 4, 2017, 8:34 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 4, 2017, 5:35 PM
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Just about pics: For the life of me and on 5th device can't or can get them to show or look so wide can't read a thread. Those didn't show wide with my settings on 2 devices both notebook PCs. Why? Unknown to me, T
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benfromsac
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Mar 4, 2017, 6:42 PM
Post #23 of 25
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May I ask why a link to an extremely helpful and relevent pdf file (factory service manual) would not be allowed? I can understand that if people were trying to promote their website or some products, but isn't this going just a little too far? smh
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Mar 4, 2017, 7:44 PM
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No links means no links. We don't need the info and you already have it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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benfromsac
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Mar 4, 2017, 8:50 PM
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Hey gsferraro, I got that main shaft out of the case and taken apart. It turns out that there was a roll pin keeping a threaded thrust ring on top of a clip ring. After removing those, the case tapped right off the shaft. I heard about how difficult this transmission can be a, but I was actually quite surprised with how easy it was once I KNEW what to do. Lol if this really is the hardest transmission to work on, I might not be so hesitant in the future about doing my own transmission work. Fortunately, the parts on the main shaft that need to be removed or replaced don't require baking, so I was able to pull them off quite easily with a regular gear puller. I've ordered the reverse gear that had the Synchro part break off. I documented everything very carefully so I should be able to put this thing back together pretty confidently. The only trouble I can foresee is putting it together without the stand thing that holds everything together. I'm a pretty patient person and I have tons of magnets on rods and such to help move everything into place, but if it proves impossible, I have no problem drilling a strategically-placed hole in the case to help me gwt in there and align things, and then tapping the hole and putting some kind of threaded slug with some JB Weld to patch it up. Thanks again for you time and effort!
(This post was edited by benfromsac on Mar 4, 2017, 8:57 PM)
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