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BIGE
Novice

Dec 6, 2010, 12:40 PM

Post #1 of 9 (1611 views)
Now What? Sign In

I have an '05 Ford Escape 3.6 (4cyl). It keeps shifting from D to L1,L2; then just continues at random. I've changed the sensor and the Tranny fluid. The longest that I've been able to run it with no problem is 340 miles' then it starts up agian. What els is there to do aside from take the Tranny apart?

(This post was edited by BIGE on Dec 13, 2010, 8:56 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Dec 6, 2010, 1:59 PM

Post #2 of 9 (1607 views)
Re: Now What? Sign In

Guess: In general shifting times are from info sent by, throttle position, speed, load on engine via sensors sending that info along. a vacuum leak like a split in an elbow at or near engine manifold or elsewhere could make it think there's a high load on it and cause a downshift fooled by low intake manifold vacuum or a host of other possibilities. At least look around for the integrity of vacuum hose and elbows for now. Just a maybe to check. You may get some help from a quality code reading?

T



BIGE
Novice

Dec 7, 2010, 9:53 AM

Post #3 of 9 (1595 views)
Re:I realy appreciate it. Sign In

Thanks for the info Brother. I had'nt thoght of that but I will jump on it. I've been checking the integrety of the wiring and connections,terminals in the console. Hey, do think some wire may be corroded?


(This post was edited by BIGE on Dec 7, 2010, 9:55 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Dec 7, 2010, 11:31 AM

Post #4 of 9 (1588 views)
Re: Re:I realy appreciate it. Sign In

This is a bit open book for now. Not sure but I think your selection of which gear is mechanical linkage and you could just glance to see it move something on side of trans. If absolutely nothing then they've made it all electrical.
Still - the things I listed are when tells the trans what gear to be in when. Your selection with the controls can override it to stay in a lower gear OR usually an option to defeat overdrive.

Intake manifold vacuum is an indicator of the load on the engine. Vacuum could be around 18 Hg with no load and you could go to pass a car or up a hill and the vacuum reading would drop, is sensed, and in conjunction with speed and your throttle position will shift by itself - hence "automatic." Many vehicles in last 20 years or so are converting the same few things into an electrical impulse rather than cables and diaphragms so a computer can do it faster and more accurately but it's only as good as the info it gets.

Vacuum leaks with elbows are somewhat common on Fords but any vehicle could have issues. Just a split in a hose and assorted conditions of vibrations, temps could make it leak faster or slower messing up the info. That's why I thought of that first. You can gently wiggle vacuum hoses and one may express itself for you even at idle. Do stay away from hot and moving parts with your hands.

If nothing found a well equipped shop or any trans shop should be able to code read for electronic failures. Those are guidance to area of trouble if any detected not necessarily pin pointing exactly what or where.

I'm guessing in that it's erratic that it's not an electrical part but rather a leak as mentioned or wiring connection that's poor. Can only guess for now,

T



BIGE
Novice

Dec 8, 2010, 8:16 AM

Post #5 of 9 (1578 views)
Re:Something new Sign In

The check engine light came on yesterday. My scanner reads that it's the range sensor but I put a new one in last monday. Also, I turned the ignition without cranking the motor and I could hear a humming sound coming from around the same gneral area as the range sensor, but this seems to be coming from inside the tranny itself. Not to mention that I also got an oder of something electrical burning or realy hot. Do thes e things have internal silinoids or relays that I my need to change out? Listen BROP, I don't know where you're at but if you could call me so I may better explane this to you and maybe you can help, I would realy appreciate it. personal info deleted Thanks again Brother.


(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Dec 8, 2010, 10:07 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Dec 8, 2010, 9:32 AM

Post #6 of 9 (1577 views)
Re: '05 Escape auto erratic shifting - 4 or 2 wheel drive unknown yet Sign In

I'd recheck any wiring to that "range sensor" first. If light is on there's a HARD code so that suggests it knows some info is out of range for that sensor. Can be wiring or plug and not the sensor itself,

T



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Dec 8, 2010, 9:47 AM)


Sidom
Veteran / Moderator
Sidom profile image

Dec 8, 2010, 8:47 PM

Post #7 of 9 (1561 views)
Re: Re:Something new Sign In

Dude, I can't even get Tom's phone #!!!!
If Tom posted that, the poor guys phone would be ringing off the hook the 24/7.

You've explained it pretty well here.

I don't do a lot of internal tranny work but from what you've posted it sounds like you've got an electrical problem going on. I'm not sure how indepth your electrical experience is but you should pull the code and start off with tracing that circuit for a short or ground. Check all the harnesses visually for damage.

You should do what you can but honestly, if you are getting a burning smell, I really wouldn't be driving this too much. Right now it's not too bad, you short something out and you could be looking for a new ride..... After you've done what you can it might be a good idea to bite the bullet and take it in to be checked out......


(This post was edited by Sidom on Dec 8, 2010, 8:47 PM)


BIGE
Novice

Dec 13, 2010, 8:45 AM

Post #8 of 9 (1547 views)
Re: '05 Escape auto erratic shifting - 4 or 2 wheel drive unknown yet Sign In

Hey Brother, I finally got this thing running like new! After doing all that work and spending some cash the problem was a bad silenoide block. It wasn't too bad of a job, but I did learn that the valve body MUST come out in order to remove and replace this silenoide block. I tried to take a short cut by just replacing the silenoides themselves and using the old harness, (plug), but that only worked for a couple of hours. I spent about $250.00 in parts and oil, over $1000.00 or so on labor, cause I did the work in my drive way. So Bro,if this info could help anyone pass it on, it really keeps it easy on the wallet. By the way, I just followed what the book said to do. Not bad for a first timer on transmissions!


BIGE
Novice

Dec 13, 2010, 8:55 AM

Post #9 of 9 (1540 views)
Re: Re:Something new Sign In

I finally got it fixed BRO! I went out to three of the best shops and got some info,then I went out and got me a book. Come to find out that the sileniode block was bad so it kept messing with the range sensor, or, nutrale switch. The bummer was I had to take off the valve body in the transmission just to remove and replace the sileniode box.






 
 
 






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