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Works, with workarounds...
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FoundOnRoadDeadVanMan
Novice
Apr 12, 2015, 7:59 AM
Post #1 of 2
(1287 views)
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Works, with workarounds...
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Engine / trans:
'93 E150 5.0L AOD with TV cable non-electronic
Vehicle use:
I only ever drive 10 or less miles at a time averaging 10-15 miles per day and spend more time idling than driving (in winter).
It was a cold one so there were periods of long idling where heat was 1.5 hrs from van engine then 1.5 hrs from propane heater/radiant floor.
First issue (resolved):
In hind sight, progressively over a few weeks of extended iding, the shift into OD got pushed to higher speeds, thusly RPMs, and then would no longer go into OD.
Fluid was clearish tan and thin but didn't smell bad per se'.
I dumped in a 1/2 qt. bottle of a cheap 1 size fits all trans conditioner/stop slip/leak preventer also of a clearish tan color that had an extremely low water like viscosity.
After a few days of minimal cruising with the occasional interstate for 10 minutes it began to unstick an OD was operational again.
YAY!
but then -
Next issue:
Trans overheated as warmer above freezing temps crept in.
I don't have a temp guage but the trans fluid got very thin like the additive was and I could hear what sounded like a belt squeal or chirping bearing and the trans wasn't behaving or shifting as though there was no line pressure.
I dumped in Lucas trans Fix, the very thick red gear oil like stuff and immediately all was well.
YAY!
but now -
Present issue:
Need to warm up or idle the van for 15-25 minutes to get the darn thing to want to engage.
It's like the gear oil is telling the pump and filter, "Nope, I'm too thick to get through that right now"
After the van is idled for a minimum of 15min. and the temp is on the "o" of normal (beyond thermostat in radiator's first temp regulation) It engaged almost as quickly as a transmission without issues.
Sitting at a red light in (D) or D with foot on brake for more than a minute will create slip until the RPMs are feathered higher and it will slip into normal behavior again until the next stop sign or red light, etc.
Seems that the oil in the radiator cooler or the secondary in front of the radiator cooler is too thick to pump and allows the low RPM stuck at the red light fluid to get too hot to apply pressure to a specific valve or something and just allows the overheated water thin stuff to circulate around rather than "do work" or push pressure?
Question:
Does it sound feasible to expect that since almost all Mercon ATF fluid bottles say, "Offers superior flow characteristics at low temperatures", that changing out 8 or more Qts of the clearish thin stuff with thick red blobs of Lucas floating in it might fix my problems?
According to what's inferred by the bottle of the same brands "High Mileage" ATF it is just a thicker viscosity of the same...
The fluid isn't inundated with brake dust type particles or metal shards but is merely thin, clearish tan, and not working well at all...
Also, Please, don't warn me about how new fluid breaks apart clutch dust that magically replaced all the internal metal parts and rubber seals rather than merely coating them or getting stuck in the nooks and crannies... Pepper can fix a small leak in a radiator too and doing a flush and fill on it will unplug the hole it fixed but rust and slime from old antifreeze will not seal a side tank that has a dry rotted rubber gasket from seeping... There is no VooDoo, fluids and solids flow, circulate, suspend, and coat things. Turbidity erodes and pressure pushes.
Thanks for any input!
 93 E150 5.0 Conversion with 450 Watt Solar panels, backup battery pack, 2 110AC inverters, 2 PCs, DVD with flip down monitor, 2 mile wifi, GSM & CDMA, printer/scanner, microwave, propane ambient air & radiant floor & infrared heating, propane single burner, screens on front windows, privacy curtains, alloy wheels, & a bad transmission!!!
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 12, 2015, 9:39 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1266 views)
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Re: Works, with workarounds...
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This transmission issue has run it's course.
You need a new trans or rebuild and you are aware of that so that should be the end of this. If you're still looking for creative, non-traditional ways to resolve this, there are other sites that may cater to that stuff, but our advice is to replace or rebuild the correct transmission.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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