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bad trans rebuild Sign up here! Search this forum this category all forums for All words Any words Whole Phrase (search options) Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> Transmission Problems bbazookajoe User Nov 4, 2010, 2:39 AM Post #1 of 3 (1988 views) bad trans rebuild Sign In 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor XLS Engine: 3.8 L, Trans: W4A5A 78000 I recently completely rebuilt the transmission. It worked except I made 2 mistakes. 1. I flushed the Torque converter by drilling the side and flushing it with water then alcohol. It worked but I went to deep with the weld and locked up the converter clutch. Second, I reused a snap ring on the rev/overdrive clutch and it slipped off after 50 miles. It ruined a thrust bearing and there was small debris. I had the torque converter rebuilt professionally and pulled off the back end and cleaned the debris out of the clutch and worked forward until there were no more metal shavings. I also pulled the valve body and cleaned out debris. Put back together and it doesn't move. Raised without wheels on the ground it does the following. Trans engages at 3000rpm (drive and reverse) (about half the time) and will goes up to 20mph then cuts out slowly. I can hear the solenoids work when i shift it to different gears. When I removed the TC to have it rebuilt, alot of trans fluid flowed out as if it were more full than normal. I pulled the cooler lines and put them over an oil pan. With the engine idle (or reved slightly) it has sporadic pressure, but no flow most of the time. The OBDII shows no codes. I'm thinking that either assembled the valvebody wrong, or installed it wrong or didn't plug in a solenoid, or the input shaft holes from the TC is plugged. Any help would be super awesome. I have the hydraulic circuit and parts diagram but can't see how to post them. Sidom Veteran / Moderator Nov 4, 2010, 8:54 PM Post #2 of 3 (1983 views) Re: bad trans rebuild Sign In Wow you're pretty deep into this one. It's been ages since I've had any automatics apart so I don't know how much help I can be. Even back then, to split a valvebody, you really had to know what you were doing to get them right. If I had to guess I would say the v/b isn't right. About the only trick I can offer that worked pretty good back then, was to look at the seperator plate and the circuits that had a check ball in them would have a tiny dimple in the hole at the end of the circuit. The ones with no check balls would be totally flat.... Double check it and make sure you don't have a checkball out of place or missing. If you can find a diagram, make sure the valves & springs are in right & not backwards....... Good luck...... bbazookajoe User Nov 6, 2010, 2:45 PM Post #3 of 3 (1966 views) Re: bad trans rebuild Sign In Thanks man. Any advice helps. I have a shop manual for it; that's the only way I dare attack something like this. The valve body itself isn't nearly as complex as my Jeep's was. It's like a Big Mac; plate-body-plate-body-plate with 4 bolts and 5 check balls total. Since that is the least invasive thing to do i think i'll start with that. If a solenoid on the v/b wasn't working would it through a trouble code?   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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