|
|
dwheeler
Novice
Jun 17, 2010, 7:29 AM
Post #1 of 8
(2669 views)
|
Hello,
I have a 1997 Lincoln Continental, 4.6 with 121,000 miles. I recently replaced the break pads all the way around. Everything went great, bled the lines, no problem. Now when I am driving the breaks are squeaking and when I apply the breaks the squeaking diminishes. The front rotors shine indicating to me the pads are applying when I brake, the backs rotors have surface rust indiciating the pads are not applying when I brake. I think the pads on the front are not releasing 100% and the pads on the back are not applying 100%. What are possible causes?
Dave
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 17, 2010, 7:41 AM
Post #2 of 8
(2664 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Comments: You can get "gun rust" you can see on one wet overnight so that's inconclusive. In replacing brakes the rotors should be replaced or resurfaced for proper break in and calipers totally inspected as best as you can or replace those too. Sliding parts need be lubed with proper brake lube.
The squeak is a sign of cheap pads even with a hack job they can be quiet. If a half a$$ed job and you should take it all apart again inspect and replace items as needed,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 17, 2010, 7:47 AM
Post #3 of 8
(2660 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Tom is right. When you just slap brake pads on and do nothing with the rotors, that';s what you get. If you opened the hydraulic system, you may have put some air in that wasn't there before.
If you have rust pitted rear rotors, they need to be replaced. The fronts need to be measured to determine whether they get replaced or resurfaced. If you put too many miles on those new pads, they will have to be replaced with the rotors again.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 17, 2010, 7:57 AM
Post #4 of 8
(2651 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Look, I keep deleting your duplicate questions and you keep posting them again. You only need one question.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
dwheeler
Novice
Jun 17, 2010, 8:04 AM
Post #5 of 8
(2649 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Tom,
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have been unemployed for the past 18 months because the company I worked for decided to move to China and my funds are now limited, reason for the half a$$ed job... just working with what I have available. I guess the problem didn't make sense to me because my breaks never squeaked before, and now it is so loud when driving.
Dave
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 17, 2010, 8:45 AM
Post #6 of 8
(2641 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
Sorry for the financial crunch - join the masses. Not doing it right actually costs more or worse an accident!
Noise can be from cheap pads or sometimes rust gets in there. Rotors should be taken off and rust behind them in rusty areas of the world as flakes can fall down and make them feel warped and worse a false sense that the lug nuts are really tight enough!
There's no easy way to short cut on brakes without some intense understanding and I won't suggest it on an open forum.
As HT said, the new pads may already be trying to mate with untouched rotors so may be junk already - no savings there.
IMO, they need to come apart again for inspection and parts as needed and the machine work. Price out rotors if need be as they make cheaper ones that are safe.
Can't be there but get help from a friend who is a mechanic who just might make some decisions on what is a must and what can wait.
Hard to do that from a web forum as we aren't there,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 17, 2010, 8:52 AM
Post #7 of 8
(2635 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
You can't buy the cheapest pads either.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 17, 2010, 10:34 AM
Post #8 of 8
(2622 views)
|
|
Re: Brake Problem
|
Sign In
|
|
As Tom & HT pointed out on the brks, its how it's done & quality of the parts....
From your post, I'm guessing you got the least expensive pads, PLUS with the not turning the rotors and if you weren't totally clean going back together there is almost no way it wouldn't make noise. If you get any dirt or grease on the rotor or pad surface, even with high quality pads, they'll squeek.
About all you can try right now would be to take it back apart, sand the pads real well, bevel the edges, clean and sand the rotors and make sure the pads & slides are free moving. If the rear calipers aren't working that is a big problem as well, now the frts are doing all the work & that will overheat them. Jack up the rear wheels, apply the brks and see if it locks up the wheel, if it doesn't, then that would need to be addressed as well..
If you're using cheap pads, you may never get them quiet.... I've asked parts managers that question. Why is there cheap grades of pads available for cars it was never a factory option for? The answer was simple.
"There's a demand for them".
DIYers want a cheap options and while they may (barely) meet DOT safety standards for that vehicle they don't even come close quality wise. Most shops won't install them. I know mine won't. But some DIYers don't want to spend $50, $60 or more for a set of pads when they can get them for $20.. You have to realize this is a difference between $20 pads & $70 pads for the same car and it's not "some guys just like to spend a lot money on their parts"........
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
