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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 5, 2011, 12:59 AM
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1967 chevy impala
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i want to know if these specs are bad or good for the price of 15,000
Used 1967 Chevrolet Impala 100,000 miles.
1967 Impala 2 door fast back. original California small block A/C car. Has been completely restored from the frame up (frame on) just about everything is new & purchased through Classic Industries.
What the car needs; touch-up to the engine compartment (has over spray when painted) touch-up to the dash, rear windshield moldings (in & out) and registration is expired.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 5, 2011, 2:37 AM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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Arggh! That''s a hack paint job big time. Virtually everything possible should have been plain removed - other items taped off including Exacto knife accuracy for no over-spray. Engine stuff may need to take apart items and paint off car.
Super high end restorations will find the original stickers or real good copies to put back and so on. Over-spray in interior is totally inexcusable and suggests that door rubber got some or a lot of spray too - not good or easy. It may be mechanically tops but hacked up paint job makes it real hard if you want to correct it. Consult a professional body shop especially if paint is new as it may come off of some items.
Glass isn't so bad to clean off - use damp one edge razor as tempered glass is softer and can scratch. Without seeing it first hand this needs a pro to look and suggest how to do what can be done or a complete redo could be in order!
Sorry - that's unacceptable work by your description for a $15,000 car!
T
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 5, 2011, 2:52 AM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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ok well ur gonna have to go easy on my, i have no idea about any of this, i just wanted to see if the car was worth buying, if u want i can link u for full details.
link deleted.....not allowed
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Apr 5, 2011, 5:07 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 5, 2011, 4:07 AM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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OK - found it. Looks better in the pics than I thought it would. If you really like the thing have it checked out. Sellers are famous for overstating things. What the heck is frame on restoration anyway? There's so much little crap I doubt it's all been taken up to new condition. If really wanted get a pro to check it out - worth every dime.
It's not original which is appealing to some and wrecks value to others. This is whimsical stuff and emotionally driven so value and price are impossible to really guess. I'm worried about the paint. A bad paint job will cost a fortune to correct - if fussy might need to be taken down to bare metal and start over.
That alone ruins it's value to me anyway along with non original wheels and engine stuff shown. Hard to get a grip on true values but seems high to me - VERY high in fact. If not purchased yet I would pass but do what you have to do if you really want it but still get it checked out. WTF does a full restoration mean? Answer: Total dismantle of near everything back to new to just cover up flaws and fix what is obviously not right. The paint is the stopper too. On the bright side, parts should be easily available for a Chevy.
Pic from Facebook may or may not show but I'll try it now.........
Your investment, your money. Just know what you are getting into and again a pro inspection is worth gold to know how well things were done. We know by your description the paint job was hacked so what else was? BTW - cars are rarely a profit investment but rather an expensive thing on wheels into which you continue to pour money into. Highest value and best chance of return on investment are the cars so good they didn't need restoring and are original like new condition and you pay dearly for that,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 5, 2011, 5:54 AM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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Dark Sandman: Those are investment grade - especially limited production cars or rare OE engines with like unreal HP - mostly from the 60s. Values are always what willing sellers and buyers agree on with this stuff. Adverised price is NOT necessarily a true value of vehicles. Some real rare stuff will fetch more than asking prices some less? Got $$ - try an AC Cobra 427 dual quad, or my fav that will never happen, an original 68 Cougar XR7- GTE edition - 500 made!
T
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 5, 2011, 1:10 PM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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ok Tom, like i mentioned earlier, not so good with cars....At all. So even most of the bulky info that he has given and u have, i dont quite understand.
That aside, i love muscle cars, and very much this particular one, im in sacramento, meaning u dont ever really see this car on the market at all, not to mention muscle cars in general. Now i will definitely agree on the fact that its not original, and that it looses a great deal of the value for me, apparently from what i could understand from u, is that its not worth 15K, good cuz im kinda in a tight spot, but then again most of us are.
As final advice, if u cut the price down to what number would then the car be worth buying, also thank u so much for ur time guys, and if theres anything u can add id love to hear from u, maybe even directing to me a better car instead? 0_o
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zmame
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Apr 5, 2011, 3:52 PM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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I would definitely be googling how to check over a car there are some good guides for beginners on the web. 15k would be alot for a non orig expecially with the mileage. It might be worth you while to pay a mechanic an hour or so to look at the condition of it.. could be ugly monsters under the car .. might have hole in frame, lots of mechanical issues.. you really have
to be careful when it comes to buying used car.. not to mention ones that are 44 years old.
As for a price value its hard to say what the car is worth without actually looking at it. If you have 15K to spend might be worth taking a trip to car shows and stuff there are always deals around you might find something cool.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 5, 2011, 4:04 PM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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OK - Here's my problem with that car at that price. Paint will cost thousands to make right - HUGE minus. You were told it had a complete frame on restoration - where's the list of what was done? By the time someone want 15,000 for a car there should be some excellent history and documentation. Engine, trans, differential new or rebuilt? New upholstery, dash and soft part excellent or redone with OE materials? Carpet - orig or a duplicate of orig? It all counts a lot in value as all that stuff is expensive. Glass all good, all windows and locks work properly, trunk detailed with OE liner which didn't last back then unless you covered it from new. Spare tire original or original liner done? Those are things that a total restoration is about. Why wasn't it a frame off restoration and body bushings all replaced? If someone went nuts doing everything then why this over-spray bull?
Again - that's a Maaco (sp?) special way to paint a car - definately not professional. Was this car ever rusty and bondoed up? As old as it is there should be lots of parts still available to not cut corners and paint can hide lousy work that WILL show up later.
What engine is in this? Is that even original or could this once have been a six and altered. Doesn't mean the car can't be a good running, decent looking muscle car if all altered but there goes the price/value. There's nothing like being right there checking and looking to know what it might be worth. It's cool but so far I don't think this is near a $15,000 car. Half perhaps and even then a history of what was done. 100,000 miles? Any documentation? all in the vintage went back to zero at 100K and were easy to mess with.
Sorry - all questions on the car. I just don't understand why someone would so called restore a car and slap on such a lousy paint job and trust anything else about it.
Without tons of documentation and history if still after this exact one I'd pay to have it appraised. You can tell a lot with a magnet where rust might have been if hacked or done right as magnet won't stick to Bondo and some shops are good at Bondo jobs. Seems all around should be pretty damn close if really restored. Actually the vintage was fairly poor for even gaps in seems when new! If totally redone I would guess that would be corrected for the repaint.
A local appraisal is in order for that kind of bucks and there sure are cars really worth many times that.
Other: I wouldn't consider it an investment that will hold it value. Anything is a guess on what will be or hold value but this is a Baby Boomer car and the "Boomers" at getting older, retiring and not hanging on as the old car thing has a lot to do with cars we remembered new and couldn't afford. I don't mean to discourage you at all but from what I see I think you could do better for that money OR just get one that's a road burner for lots less and not care about original anything.
Good luck. Get all the info you can that's credible and get that appraisal so you don't lose your shirt,
Tom
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zmame
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Apr 5, 2011, 4:50 PM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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Agree with you %100 tom.
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 5, 2011, 5:42 PM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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ok, so i asked him about more details, this is what he said "ok aside from what is already on the description. i bought the car in 2006 with a newly rebuilt big block engine, new tires and the rally wheels. the car ran and was primered. summer of 2007 i got the body and paint done at Granados auto restoration in Galt, CA. they sanded it down to the metal, primered and painted it Java Black Pearl. the body is as straight as a new car. i then slowly purchased and replaced all the items from Classic Industries. the interior was purchased as an interior kit along with door panels, arms rests, window cranks etc from Classic Industries. it was all installed summer of 2008 by Triple C auto tops upholstery in south sac. since being completed it has only been taken out a handful of times and been garaged kept under a car cover as it is now. i dont think the engine has more than a few hundred miles on it. i've only taken it out once in a while for sunday drives and thats about it. if you are looking for a daily driver i dont think this is the car for you. there is no insurance that will cover any vehicle over 40 years old unless it is under "classic car coverage" they limit what you do in it and it costs about $350 a year for full coverage. i had it through Grundy Worldwide.
going back to what the car needs; the engine compartment has overspray from when it was painted (headers and engine wall)
the dash needs to be sanded and repainted.
im only missing the rear windshield moldings (in and out)
registration is expired going on 2 years (currently $168)
let me know if you have any further questions. "
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zmame
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Apr 5, 2011, 5:49 PM
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I think for that price he should have all that stuff sorted out for you along with the ownership.. seems strange to me. I would be very careful.
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 5, 2011, 6:10 PM
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ok so how much would u pay for that kind of a car?
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zmame
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Apr 5, 2011, 6:40 PM
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You need to have a mechanic look over the car top to bottom for any major damage/corrosion and overall condition.. It's hard to put a price on something I can't see all I know is a car that hasn't been restored properly is not worth 15k in my mind.
(This post was edited by zmame on Apr 5, 2011, 6:40 PM)
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re-tired
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Apr 5, 2011, 10:38 PM
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In the world of collectable vehicles there really is not a term , " Is it worth it". Its value is what you are willing to shell out (how deep are your pockets) vs how bad he wants to get rid of it . I have seen cars that look like they came off the assembly line , mega frame-off restorations called "100 point" cars , go thru a auction house like BARRRETS and not even get back the investment . Then a car similar to yours hit $100k because two old geezers get in a bidding war because they got their cherry pop'd in one just like it . SOOooo How bad do you want it? BTW ......Tom ..I take it you are not impressed with the paint?
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
(This post was edited by re-tired on Apr 6, 2011, 7:58 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 6, 2011, 2:49 AM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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What gave you that idea RT? I've had my share of cars painted and the guy was a customer and friend. Man could that guy shoot paint like better than new! Hard when you have to take a bad job off completely.
Haven't been to Barrett's but have done car shows with my own checking out a wide range of stuff. Some beyond incredible.
Coolest was a private collection to buy one - 500 miles away but sounded good so made the run to go get it. 1963 Caddy Couple DeVille - no miles all orig. $9,000 miles clearly original - mint show car but was to drive. Few details about features and didn't buy it.
No matter. This guy had 200 cars in a hockey rink like building just his amusement. A row of 59 Biarritz (sp?) Caddy convertibles - two original mint and one restored - ever nut bolt and screw on the thing - amazing. Guy said he preferred unrestored as new cars and had three ware houses and full time help to tend to them in a hospital clean environment.
Several one of a kind cars where price is sky high and as new - all of them were. A row of the 55.56.57 T-Birds and it went on forever. Turbo T-Birds from the 50s. Memory seats (mechanically done) factory prototypes. A Buick boat-tail front and rear made custom for a GM exec and one stamping for sheet metal - no others exist. He was buying up the owner of Domino's Pizza owner's collection who was getting out of the whole thing at the time. Restored (only a few) better than new paint would have been which can be detrimental when collecting.
A 66 T-Bird with electronic ignition and air cleaner had the factory decal "Perma- Tune" - If I didn't see this with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it. Mega millions invested in car collecting - all flawless. Unreal. Never saw so many 100 point cars all at once!
Tom
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 7, 2011, 1:06 AM
Post #16 of 31
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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ok what do u think of this one?
yes i will give it a completely new paint job so forget the paint, how much would a new starter cost? and is it good or no good?
link deleted.......... not allowed
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Apr 7, 2011, 5:58 AM)
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 7, 2011, 1:50 AM
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also check this out guys
is this one worth it?
link deleted..............not allowed
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Apr 7, 2011, 5:58 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 7, 2011, 6:14 AM
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Re: 1967 chevy impala
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If this works out I would have overspray professionally dealt with and leave a good looking if so paint job till problems show up and not do right away as it could (I'm not there looking) look fine for quite a while - who knows? Are there papers on what was really done?
Either way get it checked out. If you are spending any significant $ on any car it's worth it. I just can't put a realistic price on this stuff as it depends on so many things but gut feeling is a lot less than asking price.
Other: No matter what, expect surprise repairs on about any very old vehicle,
T
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Apr 7, 2011, 10:55 AM
Post #19 of 31
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I've got a 68 Impala 2drht that I'll sell. Still in the barn and has been for 20 years or so.
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re-tired
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Apr 7, 2011, 12:16 PM
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HOW'S THE PAINT ?
*
*
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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chickenhouse
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Apr 7, 2011, 1:27 PM
Post #21 of 31
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Not that good! Needs everything.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 7, 2011, 4:26 PM
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I could manage a ground up along with the shops around me but not sure this guy is up to it or well connected to get things really done as requested?? Upholstery, and the stuff I don't' do or have stuff to do it right,
Tom
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Dark_Sandman
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Apr 8, 2011, 1:11 AM
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OK guys, found ANOTHER chevy impala, here are the details, don't know how good it is, so u guys let me know:
"-clean title
-almost road ready still needs a lil tlc needs wiring harness to b hook up to run have everything u need
-has new alternator,new under dash harness needs to b hook up,master cyclender,spark plugs and wires,cap and rotor,brake lines,brake hoses,has new front driver and passenger floors and trunk now
-have the og pink slip og owner had in stored away since the 80s not in dmv database n there's no back fees
-the whole car is complete have all the moldings and chrome to go with the car all 4 og hub caps, bumper guards corner lights
-was og red b4 but was painted black in the 70s
-has shaved door handels and have handles to put back to stock
-V8 327 with camel hump heads,has power brakes and power steering
-IN THE PIC I TOOK OUT THE MOTOR TO CLEAN UP THE FRONT END AND PAINT IT THE MOTOR IS BACK IN THE CAR PAINTED THE MOTOR CHEVY ORANGE AS WELL ,NEW FREEZE PLUGS, HEADER GASKETS AND OIL PAN GASKET
-ASKING $5,500 O.B.O
"
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 8, 2011, 6:10 AM
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Dark_Sandman: Same things apply as right along.
BTW - OE is the acronym for Original or Original Equipment, Equipped original - damn acronyms can drive you nuts.
OK: Pics are hard to see fine detail but still help.
I think I speak for most of the regulars - none of us ever did every single part of car work. Upholstery, paint + body, total engine overhauls, machine work, tranmission overhauls, glass (some) are really all trades of their own within the trade.
Antique (designation here for cars over 25 model years) car hobby isn't generally like Jay Leno just buying up stuff and only need the keys - cars as new stuff. You'll still want this checked out and need to find all the right sources and people locally to help as there will always be something pending or happening.
You'll be meeting or seeking several people and shops and the interest continues so if one doesn't do some area but into this would refer you to another that does. Calif. is huge of course but does have some of the best resources and parts IMO mostly S. Calif.
Right now (this thread will get long and may need a part II at some point to help organize) if you are really interested in Impalas please join a club for them. Buy one Hemmings Motor News - still available in print or see what's on line but printed book could be worth it to have one on hand. I tossed all my pre-computer ones - too old now. I know one local pharmacy has them but was wrapped so I couldn't peek. Bet it's full of links and ads for parts and about anything you could dream up from parts, whole cars, services and more. Always was anyway.
Go to a local car show. Near certain it's bigger than here depending on just where you are in Calif. as it's so big you could be in the boonies somewhere. There are weekly meets that will come soon here, sometimes 10 to 50 assorted cars welcomed to usually restaurants or ice cream type places. Folks who get addicted to this love to talk about their cars, the pains they've been thru and the people that help. Many regular shops don't want to see this car for work as it could tie up a space for way too long.
This stuff requires real want and dedication. YOU WILL GET HANDY WITH SMALL STUFF and start collecting some tools, getting books on line or paper on the car. I consider this car in the top 20 (guess) of cars folks still have strong interest in which really helps.
Inserted suggestions: If this is a passing whim just find a place that rents by the day, have some fun and not worry about the car at all. I don't know how intense your interest is but that's a way to get something out of your system if not really into it.
You also need a good place to keep an old car. Indoors and dry. Covered as needed depending on the place you have. Just that costs bucks. Leave it outdoors even in the best areas of CA and it will still go bad on you and need tons constantly.
* Just my observations of regulars here. Only a few of the regulars have even met! Range is retired from this biz (at least two of us) to actively working and come here when time allows up to shop owners. Wide diversity of experience over zillions of years collectively.
All are volunteers here and site is free as you know. Right now the regulars are US and Canada mostly and folks come and folks go even here. We don't always agree with each other on things and that will happen.
Speak for myself - I live in a rust belt so old cars are near always from out of this state but there are nuts who have barns special made to store 100s to just one that only goes out in fair weather. Rust is a total killer - frames fall right down, bumpers can fall off, floorboards that only the carpet is holding your feet -- non auto -- bridges that collapse and so on. The regular used parts yards just don't have the parts or keep the cars as about nothing is good on them so let it go for just the metal and they do as even a field of junk cars is expensive to just have them. Here - town by town some tax 2.5% of your inventory's value every year! Unlikely to find tons of parts from this state.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Back to this car. Why isn't it finished? Why did it need a new dash wiring harness? Fire? What's with the floors - rusted and fixed or just carpet? It's possible and even likely that an entire floor pan front to rear is available. Patching rust rarely lasts IMO but would be slow if only a Sunday driver and stored well. Rust is the enemy and kills value. Chaning the color hurts value just as alterations from original can. Hot Rods are a game of their own vs the cool cars as they were when new.
The hobby ranges from addition to "price is no object" people who end up paying double asking prices - it's whacked.
For most, consider it a love affair and you'll part with some serious bucks now and then but we still do it or some of us here have.
Not done with this thread and not here to discourage you. Intentions are to help you not get burnt by the wrong purchase.
You said up front you were NOT a mechanic by any trade of it is what I guessed which is fine - to me that means the better the car to start with the better for you. IMO for non Hot Rods the more original the better chance of losing less money on the investment. The over 100,000 dollar club can make some money at this game and again if not a love affair it's not a good investment if that's even on your mind.
Take your time - it pays to get help for areas you don't fully understand or know how much it would cost to get out of.
Keep at it. If this car was a rust bucket fixed I'd pass on this one. Trust me, there are more out there,
Tom
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re-tired
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Apr 8, 2011, 8:10 PM
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Just a word of caution .You say the handles where shaved . Usally this means the handle and all associated parts are cut out and a patch is welded on and blended in.Sometimes the depression for the handle is left sometimes not . Solenoids are mounted to work latches along with door poppers. It often reguires replacement doors to go back to stock. People who go for for this look often do suspension mods as well . Look over real good and ask a lot of questions
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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