Misfire with trailer

Moved this to plain troubleshooting doesn't matter all are read.
I can only "common sense " this as IDK what thing this is or how wired up for trailer?? Same deal CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) wants some stead known voltage and trailer bulbs or how tapped into power is lowering available Volts or reduced amps - strong clue.
Take the bulbs out of trailer's lights see if it happens? If not and replaceable maybe (some aren't replaceable, whole fixture?) are auto sized sockets could use known consumption LED bulbs.
I couldn't guess what it's charging system is capable up and what would over load it? You would see that if tested at the engine and again when it does it bet it's off,
T

So, I assume this does not happen without the trailer attached.

That has to mean there is a problem with the way the trailer wiring tapped into the bike wiring.

I would need to see a wiring diagram for the bike to understand how it may be interfering with the ignition.

Basics OP: The 1999 era of 12V things - about anything better for me I don't know this bike nor trailer at all just see them around now and then.


Flasher is "bi-metal" being bent by heat of the power that goes thru it when sensed will make the power connection, heat up and shut it off or vs versa. Can be done with or without moving parts or the bi-metal strip.


It's an addition load on the power available to this thing that it may not be able to handle at assorted speeds of engine or gauge of wire.


One item hogs the power but ignition needs a steady source buffered by the battery in this case AND the charging system.
If battery can't cover a quick spike of load alone it's under powered for this new load has a time limit how long it's not totally covered by the charging system.
Hmmm > Being a bike limits just adding more and larger charging system so reduce load this thing needs voltage delivered to stay within the low and high limits at other items.
So the extra load hogging power lowers what the ignition gets and it stumbles or misfires. I own a wild assortment of machine and stuff see them do that adding lights in particular is what you did and tap into IDK but it's clearly lowering specs for the ignition to operate - right?


Lower the load or up the wire gauge or battery if this was best it can be I hope you don't need to use directionals more than time to make the turn. If it has running or brake lights too count that in.
Headlights on bikes where I am must be on at all times for road used motor bikes since OMG the 70s was wise for many to be seen.
That's the largest load I can think of for bikes (motorcycles in this case) you should be able to lower that load with just changing a bulb inside it or if a sealed beam see what is available out there for specific bikes - machines of all sorts.
It doesn't do anything wrong without the trailer drawing juice (slang for power) so it's clearly overloaded for what it can do.
If all sources for electric power are not up to this added load you'd need to do all of the items in order and YOU become the engineer of this new load being compatible with what is available.
All this note (my bad) suggest see if you can lower the load of headlight(s) on this thing or find out how much that uses about all had to stay on that I see my own (I've owned motorcycles road bikes + Honda by chance) all had no choice but headlight on anytime engine was running it would shut off if stalled - was along time ago new bikes mid 70s no LED anything at the time, headlight the largest electrical load all the time starting them was more (electric) but could manually if the battery failed,


Tom